zxen
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Posts posted by zxen
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Im selling PLA and Nylon Bridge on eBay cheap because I sold my ultimaker:
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F223185072150
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F223185092504
please tell me honestly if you don’t think these prices are fair - all new and unopened.
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In original box with all parts (4 nozzles, PLA 1kg). Works good as new.
AU$2500 negotiable
You can pay via Paypal or during pickup. I don't know how to ship this but can ship it if you give me instructions and pay for shipping.
0439394437
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Happening to me too all of a sudden with my Ultimaker 2 with 2+ upgrade kit and replacement heater bed. I am trying a different print object to see if it happens again. The symptom is that the filament suddenly retracts about 15cm, then pushes straight back to where it was and continues printing a couple of times, and then the table drops about a centimeter and nothing continues printing in mid-air.
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I noticed that the filament had retracted back up the tube somehow. Maybe the reel was getting stuck or something. This may have resulted in a nozzle overheat?
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This has never happened before. The printer is stopping and beeping during a print. It has been printing all day and the buildplate has become quite hot, so I guess I could turn the buildplate temperature down or off, but this is a brand new replacement buildplate. Let this not sway you into assuming its buildplate related. Can anyone tell me why this might have happened? Could it be an SD card error? No error messages appear. It beeps and stops printing, then resumes on its own a second later every thirty seconds or so. For now I've turned it off in case I'm causing damage. Please help. Thanks.
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VERY IMPORTANT NEWS:
I just discovered you can still print when the heater bed sensor is broken by starting your print, then adjusting the heater bed temperature on the Ultimaker to ZERO. The error doesn't show at all.
(You might have already known that.)
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My problem was overcome by adjusting the build plate properly. I also use UHU glue stick.
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As a moderator, you would be in contact with the developers. Please advise them that the heavy gauge wiring attached to the heated bed in conjunction with the constant movement warrants robust screw terminals rather than flimsy printed on solder points. This simple modification in the new board ought to solve 99% of customer's ER02 issues.
Example image of robust screw terminals
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You're lucky. The solder acts like wax on a hairy leg and rips the weak metal terminal right off the board. The circuit board on the heater bed has been printed with thin metal onto the heater bed and the terminals should be robust conductor holes for screws, not weak metal lining. I would say from my testing that this weak metal connection is what is causing these boards to require constant screw tightening by many people with the ER02 error.
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http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/221743900262
These replacement heater beds come with the wire block attached for US$65. If you add waiting time to that as an inconvenience of $100 per day, it will cost you up to 40 days ($4000).
If you own an Ultimaker, its likely you'll need to replace these quite often.
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After de-soldering the heater bed from the wiring attachment, I can see why so many people are having trouble with the heat sensor: The heated bed is substandard in it's construction. As you can see, the wires from the board rip away with the wiring bracket, leaving no contact to the board whatsoever. These boards are not constructed properly.
You can see in the image the yellow plastic where strong metal contact should be. The circuit on the board is printed too cheaply to work with such a high force wire bracket.
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Useless.
You also didn't follow my tutorial...
Google first find:
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/3026-how-to-build-your-own-marlin
That's how I learned
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I buy everything from imaginables.com.au. They usually ship anything to your door within 2 business days.
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What? I learned nothing. This thread is now polluted with useless re-asking of the STEPS required to repair all the faulty Ultimakers in the world. Do you tell people who are frantic to 'chill out' and 'google it'? That's just cruel. You already know the answer. Your google search resulted in a sea of research. Please just tell us how to edit the firmware file, what it is called etc. in steps. That means, instructions. You don't have to of course, but I'm telling you there is no way I wouldn't do it for everyone. I'd be apologetic for not explaining clearly the first time.
If you ask with that much care and love ofc.
Google
Edit. Upss sorry
Google.com hit enter
Search bar, click. Type "build custom marlin ultimaker"
Edit. Upsss
Ok first chill out. Second for real I did learn how to do it by using google, this forum posts and two days searching for all the info. That was one year ago, it just takes time to learn. There's no magic recipes
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Oi!
Can you please not presume we all know how to achieve this? The results on this thread are visible to the world's entire internet population. I'm glad you know how to hack the firmware but can you please explain how its done? I have helped thousands of people on forums and if I know something that may be of some use, I don't hide the methodology from them. Please share if you know the steps to switch from TEMP3 to TEMP2 sensors.
Thank you on behalf of the hundreds of future readers who will have no idea about how to achieve what you have just said.
On the pins.h search on the board 72? I think it's 72 from memory...
Then change the pin numbers of one sensor to the other.
Edit:
Yes it's 72
#define TEMP_BED_PIN 10 // Bed#define TEMP_0_PIN 8 // Extruder 0#define TEMP_1_PIN 9 // Extruder 1
Change Bed pin 10 to 9 and Temp_1_PIN 9 to 10
This should change the temperature sensor from the bed to the extruder 1 free sensor.
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Based on the number of complaints about the heater bed sensor, it would not be too hard for Ultimaker to send replacements for the faulty components to all their customers without delay. If they were in Australia, they would be legally obliged to a complete product recall. Just send out the parts we need to fix this faulty product, Ultimaker
It could save the company.
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I don't know. I cannot use my printer due to an ER02 error. It was intermittent but now it happens every print. I have resoldered the black part under the heater bed 5 times. I have tightened the screws and checked the plug to the board. I have disassembled the ultimaker many times trying to solve this. Ultimaker don't come to pay my wages while the company waits for these problems to be solved, so I would now rather just pay for whatever I need to make this faulty product work immediately.
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After the screws were in place and I fixed it, the bed sensor issue happened again. So I spent TEN HOURS!!!! soldering and inspecting every part as I ripped my Ultimaker to pieces trying to find a problem.
I let it cool.
Its working now because its cool. But I suspect as it heats up it might stop 99% of the way through a 40 hour print. Again.
Let this be your plan B: Let your entire ultimaker cool down and risk it. Its infuriating that Ultimaker staff are not involved in this forum to give us absolute answers. This product should be recalled if there is an issue, or parts sent out coupled with a compensation payment to every customer.
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Whats the link to buy the part please?
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Here is how I needed to fix the heater bed sensor (ER02):
The little screws that hold the temperature sensor to the heater bed are pointy.
As the build plate moves around, they loosen. So you tighten them.
Unfortunately, they carve out the plastic like a drilling machine.
So replace them with screws that are the same size but with flat heads like little bolts.
These are holding well for me.
The sensor needs to be pulled tight against the heater bed, otherwise the Ultimaker will shut down to prevent burning your house down for safety.
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There are two silver screws facing upwards at the back of the build plate. These are sharp pointed screws that bite into the plastic of the heat sensor. Over time, the plastic tears away and the screw becomes loose. These two screws need to pull the sensor tight against the heat bed or the system will shut down and give you an ER02 error for safety.
STEP ONE:
Try gently tightening the screws. If they bite in and stay, then turning your Ultimaker off and on should fix it.
STEP TWO:
If the screws keep rotating, then the plastic has been torn and the screws won't work to keep the sensor tight against the heat bed anymore. Therefore you need to go through your toys and bits and pieces and find a screw that is slightly bigger. I was lucky enough to find a tiny screw in a toy I had that was the same size but was bolt shaped rather than pointy. This seems to have fixed it.
STEP THREE:
Carefully squeeze a bit of superglue into the screw hole and then put the screw back in. Not sure whether you should do this while its wet or dry. I recommend wet, so that no glue can't dry to create a forced gap between the top of the sensor and the heater bed. You might instead try to put the superglue on the tip of the screw.
Let me know if any of this works for you.
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I know shapeways.com print metal, but I suspect getting metal gears manufactured in a CNC type factory is cheaper. I am learning the limits of building mechanical things with 3D printers.
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This is my Hitec HS-9380TH servo. I have 36 of them in each of my robots. I will be building thousands of robots as a product. At the moment I am prototyping.
See the specs for Torque, and understand that 472 oz.in is about as much force as a ten year old trying to arm wrestle.
This is the twenty toothed gear that fits precisely over the spline shaft of the servo.
I now need to create a second gear that has the same twenty teeth for a 1:1 ratio but it needs to be longer - around 50mm long to fit into a rotating adapter. I need to design a few extra parts to it so I need to be able to print it at home.
IT NEEDS TO BE STRONG.
Each gear needs to be 11.5mm diameter and have 20 teeth. Each tooth is 1mm.
Using PLA, ABS, Nylon, XT for the gears would be like using a cheesecake as a bullet-proof vest. I'm quite sure I need metal but I think there are carbon gears since recently.
What filament can I use to print these gears with please?
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If you haven't already seen the tutorial with pictures on how to fix this, then see this article: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/19485-error-stopped-temp-sensor-bed
I have a suspicion that often all that is required is to tighten the two philips head screws at the back of the build plate so the sensor makes better contact. Be careful - these are pointed screws in plastic - not bolts that stop spinning. You'll chew the plastic mounting holes to pieces if you screw too much. I pulled my Ultimaker2 to pieces to check the circuit board and I can pretty much tell you that its almost certainly not worth it. Your problems are almost guaranteed to lie in that black sensor block at the back of the heat bed on the print table. If worse comes to worst, you should never need to do more than detach the heat bed with a 2 mm hex screwdriver (3 hex screws where the hand tighteners are), tighten the tiny flathead screws for the little black sensor wires with a tiny flathead screwdriver, and tighten the top two screws with a philips head screwdriver. Oh yes, you will need 3 screwdrivers if you need to do that. It will take 11 minutes. Hopefully you've got an electronics screwdriver kit. But first, simply try tightening (gently) the two philips head screws facing upwards at the back of the heat bed. This seems to force the sensor in the black thing closer to the heat bed. That will take you 14 seconds.
The printer will shut itself off if it doesn't get a proper temperature reading for safety reasons.
In summary, just try tightening the two little philps heads screws at the back of the build plate before you try anything else.
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White PLA 2.85mm 1kg rolls for sale - unopened
in Buying or selling your UltiMaker
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Anyone know why its so hard to sell brand new filament?