zxen
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Posts posted by zxen
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The outer teeth are around 1mm long, and the inner teeth are around 0.1mm long.
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Why no fans?
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4 skins? What does that mean? I still am unable to print the fingers. What settings and filament can they be printed with?
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"100% infill is probably what you are looking for if you want mechanical parts."
I need a 1 cm diametre gear with 20 teeth (each tooth is around 0.1mm long) to replace a steel one that works to lift heavy loads. Would nylon work or only steel?
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They look metallic, but is the filament strong enough to make gears for motors? If not, can someone suggest a strong filament that produces gears (that won't lose teeth)? My gears are 1 cm diametre with 20 teeth and need to be rotated to lift heavy objects. Steel is what the gears are typically made from.
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Thanks for the link. This company provides a checkout with items that remain the same price no matter the quantity. Each item says (tax incl.). Then it asks which shipping you would like and beside the price it says (tax incl.). Postage does not require tax. Then after these two prices it lists the tax amount (?!!!). The tax amount actually increases if you choose the higher postage rate option. This is very dodgy. Also, when you fill out your address details, it asks you for your address line one, address line two, postcode, country, home phone, mobile phone and then finally your state, in that order. First of all, who puts a phone number field before a state field? And secondly, why are both my home and mobile phone numbers required with a red asterisk? These options of filling out my address appeared only after I'd filled out a previous form that said 'error: you have not filled out all required fields'. Those fields were not there a moment ago. This website is dodgy as hell.
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I tried acupuncture needles and garbage ties - both were too fat. Wires off a highly specific metal brush might work, but I would need a link to this particular brush to verify.
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How do you print the fingers on Flexy Hand 1? They require mid-air printing, don't they?
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Does the spindle fit an Ultimaker2? Where can I buy it in Australia please?
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I want to make servo horns for my new Hitec 9380TH servos (36kg.cm of torque). The horns that come with the servos are made of nylon, but I'm not sure if they can be 3D printed and still work. PLA and ABS definitely dont work, as each tooth is around 0.1mm or less. Would this stuff work, and how long does each print take (how many mm per second)? Also I've heard that the PTFE next to the nozzle breaks down at over 240 degrees...
Get yourself some Nylon bridge it's cheap and I've had some good results with it on my UL2 extended. Plus it doesn't off gas gnarly chemicals like arsenic n stuff while printing. that trimmer nylon is nasty stuff.
Print settings
Temp 240-242c
bed temp 70c
+PVA glue, glass, no tape
no active cooling (fan @ 0%).
.1-.2 layer height.
material flow 105-110%.
Use ALOT of brim, i may be over doing it, but in cura I'm a at 50-80) basically maxing out the brim on print bed. (why not? - Helps it from lifting and primes extruder).
For Support: I use 10-15% infill And add a bit to the support/print seperation. Xy I have at 1~1.5mm and Z @ .3-.45 dep on layers height.(use a multiple of 2x-3x)
For print infill I would rec as much as you can. 100% prints like a brick(yet still a bit flexible), 25% is a bit more spongy, all depends on your application. Note on large 100% infill parts you tend to see a bit more part warping.
Hope this helps,
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I now own an Olssen block with 4 nozzle sizes (0.4, 0.6, 0.8 and 1.0mm). I love it. Its how the next Ultimaker should be made by default. If anyone is able to find micro drill bits on the internet that are less than 0.4mm diameter, it will be an essential investment for your Ultimaker. I can assure you after days of disassembly and cleaning that if you simply:
HEAT UP NOZZLE TO MELT GUNK
STAB AT GUNK WITH 0.4MM MICRO DRILL BIT
then it will clear the blockage, no matter if its ABS or PLA.
What is happening inside, is that the plastic at the tip of the nozzle actually is melting when the nozzle is hot, but about 7mm higher it is not melting enough (its soft though), and the filament being pushed from behind cannot get past. This will cause your filament intake to grind a bite out of your filament at the back of your Ultimaker 2, so even if you do clear the nozzle, you won't know if its clear because the filament is not pushing due to this second problem. Therefore simply heat up the nozzle in maintenance mode (260 degrees Celsius) and stab into the nozzle hole. If you haven't already cut your fingers to pieces trying to get a safety pin, wire or a staple in there, I can tell you that they won't fit into the default 0.4mm hole. Nearly everything on Earth that is thin enough is too weak and will bend or break. You need to buy micro drill bits with a diameter of 0.4mm. That's ZERO POINT FOUR MILLIMETRES, not 4mm. Go and buy some from eBay right now. You need them if you own an Ultimaker2. Simple as that.
PS I bought Acetone but didn't use it or need it after I used the micro drill bits. Also, the atomic cleaning method didn't work for me at all after 14 hours of stressful attempts. Also note that the micro drill bits are guaranteed to break after one or less attempts so buy lots of them and simply let the broken pieces get pushed out with the gunk. Try to be careful to push up in a straight line to minimize the breakages.
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LUBRICATION
Thank goodness this was an easy fix (in my case). Simply lubricate the slide beams like this and it will run smoothly again: https://ultimaker.com/en/manuals/222-lubricating-the-axes
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My friend had some ultra thin nozzle scraping things (less than 0.4mm) in his workshop. Now I can clean the nozzle anytime by sticking the reed in when the nozzle is hot and it unclogs everything without any disassembly. I don't know where he got it from, but if you can find one, you can unclog without disassembly.
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The vase image is awesome. Images and videos make reading forums much better.
But I don't think it would hurt anyone to post a complete resource of info here in this thread to explain to everyone using colorfabb XT on an ultimaker what the EXACT instructions are instead of one question at 1a, then another question about step 13b and so on. Can someone please tell us exactly what steps to take to make this stuff work, starting with which button to press on the ultimaker when you first load the filament, all Cura settings both basic and advanced, and all Ultimaker settings.
hreedjik, according to my research, you are the only person on this planet who knows how to do it. Can you please help me and everyone else on the entire internet who is using this product on an ultimaker - this is the link they will find when conducting a search. Best if you just film it and post all the settings in a video on youtube. Thanks on behalf of everyone.
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Where can I buy filaflex please? (And all the other things I'll need to overcome the problems you have been discussing.) Thanks
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The feeder grinding occurs due to the nozzle being blocked and causing a traffic jam. It takes hours to clean the nozzle and sometimes it is impossible without a sewing kit. I bought a replacement. That just got blocked too :(
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I found out that the PTFE part is made of teflon, and it does not like to be in the nozzle. Replacing the nozzle is arduous - around 2 hours of trying to screw parts together that are not forgiving (its not made well for maintenance), but..
I finally replaced the nozzle and my printer is as good as new!
I recommend a new way of monthly nozzle cleaning. Atomic is only for easy to remove fragments.
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Maybe I should have bought that one, but as you all know with parts, a single solid part is far less likely to give you trouble than something that needs to be screwed together, especially at the trouble spot. I'm glad to have less options by owning a single solid nozzle. Ideally, they will invent a robotic aperture for adjustments rather than requiring manual nozzle replacements for altering extrusion thicknesses.
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What's an olsson block? Please tell me its not a quasi scientific term that ultimaker have come up with for something straightforward like 'atomic method', is it?
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A great tool I use for clearing clogged nozzles are the twist-ties that come with plastic bags. I don't even strip off the plastic, just shove it into the nozzle with a pair of small pliers. Works a charm.
I tried that but the block was too hard and kept bending that wire. Then I went to buy a syringe but the idiot at the pharmacy told me she didn't sell printers so I walked out. Now this sounds like an ad, but I bought my Ultimaker2 from imaginables.com.au and I went and ordered a replacement nozzle for AU$66 (my warranty had just expired). They had it in my hand, delivered express within 12 hours, plus they threw in a new PTFE tube guide and a spring. Problem solved. The syringe was suggested by them too, but I was unable to get one due to my anger issues in regards to bad customer service at the pharmacy. 'But we don't sell printers!' Idiots. I'm pretty sure the tip of a small syringe would have unblocked it. I might need to do it some day, as it sounds like a few of you have had clogged nozzles beyond what the atomic method can clear.
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I would get it fixed under warranty before I started trying to source medical supplies to unclog the hole. I'll probably call for a replacement nozzle tomorrow. The hot print area was caked in burnt plastic inside the fan holder cavity behind the nozzle. That hole should be sealed better and is surely what led to the build up. Also, I suspect the design allows PTFE plactic to get pushed into the nozzle as it melts over time. This stuff is not designed to melt easily, I think. I'll bet everyone who owns an Ultimaker has increasingly streaky prints due to the PTFE tube holder breaking apart over time and blocking the filament passage. I would rather soak it in something that I have lying around the house though. Coca Cola should work based on its reputation, but it actually is not as acidic as people say - it has the same acid content as carbonated water apparently. Anyone able to think of a suitable declogger that I probably have in my kitchen or bathroom?
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Thanks, but as I said, I already tried all that for hours. If you can find a needle that thin that can stay firm, please let me know. Thin wire, a tenth the thickness of a staple is still far too big, and it does not hold it's strength. I tried compressed air from a spray can after the nozzle cooled down. I was scraping out gunk for hours with every type of electronics screwdriver, needle and wire that I had, melted in the filament like I said (this is the atomic method) about 80 times with 260>110 degree heat variations using ABS, then the other temperatures as explained with PLA etc, etc. Is there a household chemical that I could soak the heating element into or something? I need to clear this thing out.
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I have disassembled the entire print head, but I cannot clear the nozzle after several hours. How do I stick something into the nozzle hole from the front? Not even thin wire can fit. I have heated up the nozzle while the whole thing is disassembled and everything. There was a lot of gunk in there that I removed with several tools and filament etc, but the last bit won't budge. It must be a cone less than a cubic micrometre, but its immovable, even at 260 degrees. Any ideas?
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Thanks so much. Mine was set to RepRap Volumetric. Now I see a lot of yellow highlighted settings in Cura. Are these the default measurements or do I actually need to research what to write in the Basic, Advanced and Plugins sections? I cannot find the answers on the internet at all.
BASIC
Quality:
Layer height (mm):
Shell thickness (mm):
Enable Retraction: Y/N
Bottom/Top thickness (mm):
Fill Density (%):
Print Speed (mm/s):
Print Speed (mm/s):
Support Type:
Platform Adhesion Type:
How do I troubleshoot/repair an Ultimaker 2? (ERROR – STOPPED temp sensor BED)
in UltiMaker 3D printers
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Thank goodness there's an actual video here. The tech talk is head-achy.