tourdetour

For me, over 0.4mm overlap, the seam is barely noticeable. 0.6mm overlap seems to be the best to reduce it. However, with 0.6mm overlap and higher we can see a bump in the inside of the object. That's not a problem for a solid object, but for an hollow cylinder, that can be annoying. Finally, (on my prints), the seam seems to be picking inward on the control print and on the one with 0.2mm overlap. However, with the prints with 0.4mm, 0.6mm and 0.8mm overlam the seam is bumping outward.

I've finally printed all the test models. It was a bit weird because there was too much retraction at the end of each gcodes, so the filament just went out and I had to insert it again at each print. Whatever. Here are the results, I used a macro lens and I tried to make an high resolution picture. Tell me if you need more pictures. Unfortunately, I won't be able to do more tests for a month, I'm going on vacation.

Hi ! This prints great without a problem, nice work ! It doesn't override the machine's settings anymore. I see the flow is automatically set to 638%. I have a flow rate between 2 and 3 mm^3/s. It doesn't scratch the build platform anymore. Thanks ! By the way, what would be the best color to print your models, to have the best vision possible of the seams ?

Okay, I've fixed the problem with extrusion I think. I couldn't use the 1.75mm fixed file (it said it was out of printing area), however, I managed to change the flow rate for the print, thanks to tinkergome's firmware. It's currently printing. However, the Z level is wrong, it's pushing too much on the buildplate instead of being over it, so the nozzle is inside the material being printed. Do you know how I could fix that ? Maybe by changing the Z level on the printer's settings ?

Can't we get the ratio and just adjust the feeding rate on the printer ? As the filament is a 2.85mm of diameter cylinder, V = pi*1.425^2*h = 6.3794h So if we use a feeding rate of 638 %, should it work or am I missing something ?

It seems to override it just for the current print, you can also specify the temperature in the Reprap file and stuff like that.

Hummm wait a minute, Reprap gcodes should work fine on an Ultimaker 2, I've already printed some Reprap models using octoprint. Maybe the only problem is that Reprap overrides machine settings so the bed isn't leveled properly. Your models don't seem too long to print, and as you need help, well, I can help you. You idea seems really interesting. I print a lot of twisty puzzles, and removing those seams would help for the turning quality and for the look. Finally, I think converting gcodes from one flavor to another should be a cura feature. That would be really handy. And good luck for your project ! By the way, I used to use cura 15.04.6 until a few days ago because I was very disappointed with the first version of cura 2 I downloaded on Linux (It didn't print well, was slow and the buttons were too big). But now with cura 2.1.2 (on mac) it's absolutely awesome, the UI is really good and understandable and clean, it's much faster and it prints well.

Your UI is absolutely beautiful ! I really like how you move through the icons, and it seems more intuitive.

Hi, I've tried your Control gcode on my Ultimaker 2 upgraded to an Ultimaker 2+... it seems to have done nothing but scratching my buildtak... A bit of fillament is coming out but the nozzle is too close from the bed (other models sliced with cura work fine). Does the gcode overwrite the Z level set in the printer before printing ? Is there a way I could generate these gcodes ? That would be easier I think.