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lars86

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About lars86

  • Birthday 01/01/2015

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  1. Did you ever get this working? I am considering swapping out my UMO mainboard for the Duet 2 or 3.
  2. I haven't run a second extruder before, but I think everything should be in configuration.h: // This defines the number of extruders // :[1, 2, 3, 4, 5] #define EXTRUDERS 1 Probably should make sure you have good values defined for the second extruder (E1) as well: /** * Default Axis Steps Per Unit (steps/mm) * Override with M92 * X, Y, Z, E0 [, E1[, E2[, E3[, E4]]]] */ #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80, 80, 4000, 500 } /** * Default Max Feed Rate (mm/s) * Override with M203 * X, Y, Z, E0 [, E1[, E2[, E3[, E4]]]] */ #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE { 300, 300, 5, 25 } /** * Default Max Acceleration (change/s) change = mm/s * (Maximum start speed for accelerated moves) * Override with M201 * X, Y, Z, E0 [, E1[, E2[, E3[, E4]]]] */ #define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION { 3000, 3000, 100, 10000 }
  3. Di you do any calculations on the difference in torsional stiffness? My gut says that while the rulers will be stiffer in bending, they will deform more in torsion (trying to rotate the print head about the X or Y axis)
  4. I think the only change you will really need is changing: #define BOARD_ULTIMAKER // Ultimaker to: #define BOARD_ULTIMAIN_2 // Ultimainboard 2.x (Uses TEMP_SENSOR 20) ...and using these for your temp sensor definitions: #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 20 #define TEMP_SENSOR_1 20 #define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0 #define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 20
  5. I think you guys will have more luck following my thread: The UM2 or UMO+ should only need a couple small changes compared to my branch (motherboard, temp sensor).
  6. Mine is an earlier 1.5.7 board, with an official heated bed.
  7. The dual print fans should run via the existing PWM circuit. I went ahead and just ran a couple cheap 12v 30mm axial fans, in parallel, on that circuit. So far they have survived. I'm not sure what the worst case is if they fail. It would suck to burn out the transistor if they fail as a short. Not sure if fans ever really do that. I'm running a complete external power supply for the hot end fan right now. I would like to clean that up and have a pretty good path to take. I can solder in my voltage step down board, into the UM supply circuit and step down to 12v so that fan has a higher chance of success. I'm just curious how those voltage regulator board would handle a PWM signal (for the print fans).
  8. Thanks for the reply @conny_g I'm pretty sure that VCC/2 is 19v on the UMO and that they just found a 12v fan that "lives" at 19v.
  9. This sounds like a cool idea andy! Are you going to build some adjustment into your bearing mounts, so you can adjust lash against the rulers?
  10. Crickets!!! Anyone know how these voltage step up/down boards will do with a PWM signal?
  11. Very thorough! A couple of thoughts: - "Jerk" in Marlin is not the second derivative of velocity. It is a maximum allowable instantaneous change in velocity. It certainly isn't ideal, but with the limited computational power of 8-bit boards, and no provision for allowable path deviation to smooth path motion, it is a necessary evil. You can imagine the jerk setting can have a lot to do with balancing motion stutter (as the planner tries to move around a faceted model and connect all the "dots"), and accelerations above the max acceleration setting. I guess you would have to compare the forces exerted by two cases: max acceleration & maximum stepper torque (a jerk move); to see which is higher. - It seems like you could save a lot of time by deciding which parts deflect a relevant amount. Pretty easy to estimate max force exerted on the print head. Then compare elastic elongation of the belts, with point loaded deflection of a shaft.
  12. Hi Togeir, thanks for the reply! It looks like the S3D print might be a much thicker layer height, which could explain the color difference. Maybe we should start a thread to compare resonant test prints at comparable speeds and max accelerations. It would be interesting to benchmark different modifications.
  13. Maybe the thought of extra noise is from people who kept the same paneled design, but made it aluminum. I could see more resonance and noise in that case.
  14. Reducing max acceleration has a huge impact on ringing. Remember, Force = Mass * Acceleration. Deflection (ringing) is proportional to force. You won't see a true comparison of your modification unless you match the print settings from your older tests. Makerbots do use GT2 belts but they are direct drive printers. With all that extra weight on the print head, it's no wonder you see ringing. My print head is a printed assembly. I'm working on a new revision of it to hold an E3D V6. I have been running a sort of Franken-hot-end with a stock heater block & nozzle, but a custom stainless heat break and heatsink. I actually designed an entire hot end from scratch and made all the parts on my CNC machines. But was shocked that my press fit connections between the heat break and heater block leaked molten filament! I never came back around to remake it. If I were you, I would print some big circles at very slow speed (20mm/s). This should remove any inertial flex. If you still get the flat spots, then you likely just have too much backlash in your spiral followers. Yes. That photo doesn't show the fan configuration. I currently run two 30mm radial fans with light ducting to direct flow. I print almost exclusively high-end PLA and feel like cooling is very key to high quality prints. In addition to not wanting to breathe styrene gas, generally I find printing ABS a nightmare with very little upside. Modified PLAs tend to have better stiffness, less shrinkage, similar strength, great bed and inter-layer adhesion, etc. I just don't see the allure of ABS. Having prints that look good, but peel apart along layers does not interest me. Also, not being able to run adequate cooling means overhangs will be garbage. If I were you, I would grab some Polymax or Protopasta PLA and do some test prints to get your printer dialed in. You can run much cooler nozzle temps 200 or less, full speed fans, prints stay stuck to even a cold bed (with blue tape). This will make sure you aren't trying to calibrate a printer off warped ABS. $0.02
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