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lars86

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lars86 last won the day on March 11 2020

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  1. I got all the new parts finished up and dug into the conversion today. These cheap 8mm rods off Amazon are bang on 8.00mm, and appear to be very straight:https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LCQF7H3/ But, don't let the reviews fool you. These linear bearings are trash. I hoped to find 2 decent ones out of 12, but they are all wayyy too loose: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B087WPGQ8T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I have two Misumi bearings on the way ($15 in bearings, $15 in shipping). So I am really hoping they get my lash wher
  2. Well, it has been quite a while, but I am finally launching on the 6mm to 8mm rod conversion. The beam deflection numbers are compelling enough to try it out. Basically, for a simply supported round beam, with a point load in the center, if you move from a 6mm rod to 8mm the reduction in deflection is nearly 70%! I have already redesigned my XY blocks and print head to support the 8mm rods, and am printing them now. Stay tuned!
  3. The overlap between devs on GitHub and users on the UM forum is probably pretty small. On this forum, it's possible some users have already found ways to do this. On GitHub, the devs have the ability to add features or report details that might be otherwise unpublished.
  4. Still a little tidying to do on my wiring, but she is a printer again! I really like RepRapFirmware so far and the quick, easy configuration changes. I have thermostatic fan control on my hot end fand and the mainboard cooling fan, so the printer sits silently at idle. I have the BLTouch probe integrated now for mesh bed leveling. The probe works nicely on the glass bed, and helps account for blue tape for cold bed prints. The Trinamic stepper drivers are amazing. Without all the R2D2 sounds, the printer make so much less noise pollution.
  5. Hey guys, I was hoping that Cura could pass parameters for the minimum and maximum x and y values used in a given print. My thought is that you could push these values forward into mesh leveling bounds and quickly probe the area of bed being used without waste.
  6. Bed heater resistance is 3.3 ohms That puts power at 24V @ 175w
  7. Conversion is coming along well. I am taking my time and cleaning up a lot of wiring and other modifications while I am at it. Maestro is mostly configured and already driving all axes and heating my E3D V6. Just waiting for a PT100 daughter board to be able to sense bed temp directly and eliminate the additional bed kit board. Being able to thermostatically control the hot end fan and the fan cooling the stepper drivers is so nice. The printer is dead silent at idle now.
  8. I don't know why I didn't think of this sooner: Power = V^2 / R So I just need to measure the heater resistance tonight and I should be in business.
  9. Good thought. I have been all through there and haven't found that data unfortunately. The only clue I have is that the included 220w power supply has been running my whole printer up to this point, but they mention that is you have dual extrusion you will need an additional power supply. It must be pretty close to maxed out.
  10. Hi guys, Does anyone know the current draw from the Ultimaker Original Officiale Heated Bed? I'm trying to tally up all my power consumption for power supply evaluation. Thanks!
  11. I decided to pull the trigger on the Duet Maestro. Hoping for a winner.
  12. Hey guys, I am still rocking an original Ultimaker, heavily upgraded at this point. It is such a solid platform, mechanically, my only wants at this point could be served by a new controller / control board. Current build specs: Official heated bed Upgraded stepper motors, direct driven on X&Y, GT2 belts / pulleys Custom print head with E3D V6 Custom extruder drive with geared stepper Reprapdiscount full graphic smart controller Here is what I want: Quieter operation More integrated fan contr
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