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  1. @jatman, if you want to see the printer in action, send me a PM and we can arrange something.
  2. It also comes with an uninstalled nozzle and teflon piece ( both new)
  3. http://ggalisky.weebly.com/ultimaker-2 There are a few pictures on my blog of the UM2. I cant take pics now, but I will asap. The blue tape on the edges of the platform are no longer present and the PEI surface has been heated up to 125c many times over and still sticks fine. The feeder is roberts feeder, you can find pics on youmagine right now if you cant wait for me to take some pics.
  4. It has around 500hrs on it, but works great. I am asking for $1950 shipped. It will come in the original packaging. It comes with all the cables and SD card. It also has an upgraded feeder and an upgraded PEI build platform that prevents warp with ABS and PLA. The original feeder parts will also be included. If you are local I will give you my make shift enclosure and a roll of PLA too.
  5. I have done quite a few these. If you go to my blog http://ggalisky.weebly.com/filament-extrusion-and-recycling, the second post down has links to all of them. Also, check out the other parts of the blog for more of my projects.
  6. Hey, I just had one of the rods for my printer pop out of the plastic holder, specifically the bottom rod that goes through the hotend in the y axis. I poped it back in, but should I be worried? It isnt printing level any more...
  7. Hey, Just wanted to share with you guys in the open source spirit about my filament extrusion adventures with the UM2. I am an active member over at soliforum, and I did a write up about 3mm ABS extrusion; the whole spool was made with the Filastruder. Extruder type: Standard Filastruder with 3mm melt filter, enclosure and vertical setup with winder. Picture of my set up: On the winder laser sensor, I added straws where the PTFE goes to help guide the filament better. You can find more pictures on my imgur here: http://ggalisky.imgur.com/all/ Printer type: Ultimaker 2 Pre-Drying Many different types of plastics need to be pre-dried in order to get good quality filament and prints. The plastics that encounter frequently that need pre-drying are PLA, Nylon, TPU, and PC (polycarbonate). There are several more plastics that need to be pre-dried, but for simplicity I only listed a few. I used a food dehydrator I bought off of Amazon to dry all of my pellets. http://www.amazon.com/Presto-06300-Dehy … dehydrator . The dehydrator comes with mesh plates, so you need to find a way to stop the pellets from falling through. I use this: http://www.amazon.com/National-Presto-D … ZNA913RBA. I usually let the pellets dry for about 10-17 hours. After drying I seal the pellets in a zip lock bag with a silica gel packet inside, and add a label so I know what plastic it is. Extrusion MG94 ABS with red 3D Supply Source colorant Extrusion temperature: 178 °C Extrusion rate: 8 inches per minute. Average diameter of filament: 2.73mm Tolerances: + or – 0.02mm Comments Ever since I was able to achieve + or - 0.01mm tolerances by pre-drying my http://www.soliforum.com/topic/9818/or- … erances/, I have started predrying all of my pellets before extrusion including colorants. This also stops the filament from becoming brittle and makes IMHO filament that is better than the majority of the stuff out there. Most of the Filastruder users out there are 1.75mm people (including me), so switching to 3mm for the Ultimaker was a little bit of a struggle at first, but work well after some modifications to my set up. The first thing you will need to do is drill out you existing nozzle, or buy a 3mm nozzle from Filastruder. I used the non-melt filter nozzle that came with the Filastruder, and drilled it out with a 3/16in bit. This let me test out different diameters before drilling out my more expensive melt filter nozzle. If you have a vertical extrusion set up with a winder like me, you will need to modify the distance between the PTFE tubing and the servo powered filament guide. I added maybe 150mm, but you should experiment with yours to get the best results. Since 3mm ABS is stiffer than 1.75mm, it wants to flatten into a straight line instead of falling into a neat arc like 1.75mm. The path of the filament arc needs to be such that the filament coming out of the nozzle is not curved too much; if you look at the pictures bellow, you will see that the PTFE guide is at an angle to keep the filament from exerting too much force on the molten filament leaving the nozzle. Looking at the pictures will help you understand what I am talking about. Also, You will need to extend the length of the ribbon cable that comes with the Filawinder. Printing Unlike the majority of my material tests prior to this one, I used a SD2, but now I am using an Ultimaker 2 to print with. I used Cura as my slicer. In order to print ABS effectivily, I made an enclousre for my Ultimaker to help with delamination. For build plate adhesion I used PEI, but a glue stick or an ABS slurry will work just as well. I had no problems printing this at 70mm/second at 230 degrees Celsius and at .2mm layer height. Brittleness 1-10 scale, 1 is TPU and 10 is acrylic. 4 Layer bonding 1-10 scale, 1 is Nylon and 10 is acrylic. 4 Comparison to commercial ABS filament: I have never bought a roll of ABS filament thanks to the Filastruder Pictures: The red gear was printed with 3mm ABS You can see what I mean by angling the PTFE guide You can see the arc bulging near the nozzle; if the the PTFE guide was not angled, the stiff arc of filament would put too much stress on the molten filament, pulling it thin Questions? Comments? Feel free to send me a PM, or post a reply down below!
  8. Here is a picture: You can see some of it on the outside skirt I really have no idea what I should do. It has done this twice, and after each time I have done a few cold pulls and printed at 260c for 5min. Got my finger crossed that this is nothing. What do you guys think?
  9. Problem solved. Solution: Switched to Robert's feeder, and used a spool holder with less friction.
  10. I tried the same print at .01mm and got massive under extrusion. Why does this part (same settings as the part above) look so great? Size?
  11. Hey, this is my 8th print and 1st day of ownership of my printer. I have had great success with smaller objects at .01mm, but had some problems. How can I fix these problems? Pictures below Print speed 50mm/s Layer height .25mm PLA 230c
  12. Just got a UM2, and after the bed raised, I saw an extra screw near the back of the machine. I looked around, but could not find where it came from. Everything works fine currently. It is the same type of screw that holds the polycarbonate panels to the frame.
  13. Mine is out for delivery today, and if I have time I will do an unboxing video.
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