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derek-bosch

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Posts posted by derek-bosch

  1. You can tell if something is wrong because the bowden slowly slides up until there is an air gap easily visible when looking at the print head from the side.

    Razor is fine - just make it very perpendicular and 2mm should be plenty - you can only take off 20mm or so before you need a new one (soon I will have some in my store gr5.org/store/).

     

    there is no visible air gap on between the bowden tube and the teflon connector...

    I will get pictures later this evening

  2. I will get a photo this evening.

    As far as un-jamming it, usually I heat the unit to at least 90c, then pull the filament from near the spool (disabling the feeder wheel).

    if that doesn't work, I end up removing the four long screws, pulling the nozzle/aluminum block off the teflon coupler, then push filament through the tube and cut off the plug that has formed...

    Any advice in cutting the bowden tube? just a razor blade? or something more precise?

    I will double check if I need a new tube-holder clip.

    -Derek

  3. I like around 4.5mm for retraction on UMO.  I have printed lots of things at 240C no problem.  If you are printing pretty fast then you need to print pretty hot.  Here is a table of my recommended max speeds for different temperatures for PLA and at .2mm layers (.1mm layers print twice as fast):

    20mm/sec at 200C

    30mm/sec at 210C

    40mm/sec at 225C

    50mm/sec at 240C

    The printer can do double these speeds but with huge difficulty and usulaly with some grinding of the filament.

    How tight is your spring - my spring on the feeder, when the filament is loaded and feeder is closed is 11mm and Simon's is 10.5mm.

    Does your part have tons of retractions?  For example if you have 1000 retractions all at 4.5mm then that is 4.5 meters of retractions.  If you have 4.5 meters of filament that's not bad - about 1 retraction at every spot.  But if you have 10 retractions or 100 retractions for every spot then you are likely to grind up your filament.

     

    I'm running at 210 for 50mm/sec .1mm layers

    not a lot of retractions, maybe 10 total per layer.

    I need to double-check my spring tension when I get home.

  4. Just a crazy idea. Are you sure that the bowden isn't inverted? I mean, the side that goes to the extruder has a different 'width' and it's a bit more open to allow easier filament load, but the side that goes to the hotend it's just plain 3mm.

     

    pretty sure it is the correct direction - the taped end is at the extrude end, the non-taped end goes into the teflon connector

  5. I reduced the temperature to 200C and reduced the retraction to 2mm, and it still jammed.

    I will double check the filament diameter, but when I did so earlier, I found no sign of bumps or variation.

    I will triple check the bowden tube -> teflon coupler connection.  I had done as dim3nsioneer suggested not tightening the long screws until the bowden is nice and tight.

    What is the remedy if the clip holder DOESN'T hold the tube nicely?

    I will also try increasing the temperature (to 220) to see if that makes any difference

  6. I purchased a used UMO about 4 months ago.  Everything was going great, printing solidly without issues

    for a couple months.  Then I got my first filament jam.  I unblocked it (using the Atomic method, cleaned the nozzle, etc).  Since then, I've had very inconsistent results.

    Sometimes it prints for 2-3 days without issue, but this past weekend it didn't last an hour.  

    I'm using Gizmodorks 3mm filament (transparent blue), but I've also seen the issue w/ JET PLA orange.

    printing at 210c.  using the most recent Cura (non-expert mode) normal print.  the design I'm printing is very

    simple triangular bars - 5 of them lying parallel.

    the plugs are right at the white teflon connector/ bowden tube... the filament gets ground down at the extrude wheel.

    my experiments to try will be turning off retraction, as well as printing at a slightly lower temperature (200?)

    I've taken apart the hot-end, cleaned out the white teflon connector, the PEEK, nozzle, etc.  Bowden tube is sitting flush in the white connector, and everything is nice and tight (at temperature).

    Any other suggestions?  This has been very frustrating...

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