polle
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Posts posted by polle
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Your fanshroud looks nice!
I still wonder, why the print started to look good with 260°c, when i got bubbles at 245°c? Too hot for bubbles?
But, well, eh nevermind. The print is fine now 
Here are my Settings: As Sidenode, I never mentioned that I use an 0,6mm Nozzle, don't know how big the influence on the settings are.
layer_height = 0.2
wall_thickness = 0.6
retraction_enable = True
solid_layer_thickness = 0.6
fill_density = 50
nozzle_size = 0.6
print_speed = 50
print_temperature = 225
print_temperature2 = 0
print_temperature3 = 0
print_temperature4 = 0
print_temperature5 = 0
print_bed_temperature = 65
support = None
platform_adhesion = Brim
support_dual_extrusion = Both
wipe_tower = False
wipe_tower_volume = 15
ooze_shield = False
filament_diameter = 2.85
filament_diameter2 = 0
filament_diameter3 = 0
filament_diameter4 = 0
filament_diameter5 = 0
filament_flow = 100.0
retraction_speed = 40.0
retraction_amount = 4.5
retraction_dual_amount = 16.5
retraction_min_travel = 5.5
retraction_combing = All
retraction_minimal_extrusion = 0.02
retraction_hop = 0.15
bottom_thickness = 0.3
layer0_width_factor = 100
object_sink = 0.0
overlap_dual = 0.15
travel_speed = 150.0
bottom_layer_speed = 30
infill_speed = 100
solidarea_speed = 30
inset0_speed = 40
insetx_speed = 80
cool_min_layer_time = 2
fan_enabled = True
skirt_line_count = 1
skirt_gap = 3.0
skirt_minimal_length = 150.0
fan_full_height = 0.5
fan_speed = 100
fan_speed_max = 100
cool_min_feedrate = 10
cool_head_lift = False
solid_top = True
solid_bottom = True
fill_overlap = 15
support_type = Lines
support_angle = 60
support_fill_rate = 15
support_xy_distance = 0.7
support_z_distance = 0.15
spiralize = False
simple_mode = False
brim_line_count = 20
raft_margin = 5.0
raft_line_spacing = 3.0
raft_base_thickness = 0.3
raft_base_linewidth = 1.0
raft_interface_thickness = 0.27
raft_interface_linewidth = 0.4
raft_airgap_all = 0.0
raft_airgap = 0.22
raft_surface_layers = 2
raft_surface_thickness = 0.27
raft_surface_linewidth = 0.4
fix_horrible_union_all_type_a = True
fix_horrible_union_all_type_b = False
fix_horrible_use_open_bits = False
fix_horrible_extensive_stitching = False
plugin_config =
object_center_x = -1
object_center_y = -1
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So Guys, the print is done, thanks for your helping thoughts!
First I tried lower "min Layer Time" prints, where one side actually looked perfect, but the other one sucked, because of the one sided fan?. Actually I wonder, why its recommend to print without fan?
@ Labern: I remembered your statement, that you print XT with 225 degree and was confused, why do I print so hot. Because of the colorfabbs > 240°c recommendation on the box, I never thought about printing with lower temperatures and made more tests.
Printed with 225°c, shorter Min Layer Time and more retraction
then changed the design to a little bit more material.
Looks pretty god, not perfect. But far better than the other ones.
And that's the Final Print.
Later, i'll add the final configuration File.
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additional test. Same settings as last print with different temperatures
260°c looks the best?!
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Maybe you could do a fast enclosure like this https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/8211-um2-enclosure-plan?page=2&sort=#reply-100202
good Idea! I tried that for the following Test prints
Well I have been printing XT with a little fan on. Giving the amount of problems you have it might help a little. I also print ABS with a little bit of fan. Don't overdo it with the fan otherwise you get layer bonding problems.
If look at the photo drop the temperature a bit might also help fight the stringing (be aware that dropping the temperature might result again in bad layer bonding). And check your retraction distance.
Well that is a lot to tune for. And conflicting actions it just looks like engineering.
All my XT prints were printed with enabled fan. My examples are printed with 30% and 50% fan. My Retraction Distance is actually really high, higher than recommened. It doesn't change the strining. Perhaps its too high and that causes my issues? (Retraction amount 4.5)
Yes minimum layer time can slow the print heaps.
When XT is to hot it tends to have tiny bubbles and can make the print look really bad and go brittle. Sometimes you can even hear some little crackles as its printing.
As your stringing is so bad and although its hard to see in your picture the texture of the surface looks a bit rough so i would say its to hot.
Increase you travel speed to 250, make sure your bowden is not moving during retractions at either end and Then try reducing the temp.
Is Minimum Layer Time bad? Its the first time i observe what it does. Should I shorten the time, or increase it?
In the Picture you can see the good surface near the Bed (about 1cm above bedlevel, the bad print starts). Travelspeed was already 250, dont know why its 150 again?! and I will check the Bowden!
Testprint with 255°c. Looks much better, but still weird.
Testprint with 255°c and a Case that neotko recommened. Looks kinda similar.
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XT is not that easy to print with.
I'm guessing this might be due to changes in speed from the minimum layer time. You could adjust the time a bit.printing a tower next to it or print 2 at once helps but you will need to fix the Stringing first.
Also making all your speeds the same will give better results.
XT is prone to Stringing and you may need to increase the retraction distance.
Do you think that the minimum layertime will slow the print down to much? I tried your advice and printed a Tower next to it. Thats the result -->
The print itself is better, but still the parts that are higher than 1 cm look bad. Even on the Tower! So my conclusion would be, the printing temperature is to low?! Near the Glasplate the print is also heated with the bed and if its to far away it gets to cold?
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My 5 cents..
Do you have a UMO with 1 fan? To me it looks like a fan issue. One side the fan cools the material and the other side it does not. You might try to position the part differently so the fan hits both sides.
Yes your right, I have an UMO+ with only 1 fan! BUT actually its recommended to print without fan and I can't understand why
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Hi,
i have some overextrution problems (i think). If the printed section gets to small in "slicesize", then there are parts that are kinda overextruded or too hot? Like in this picture. The Bottom is ok, but on the smaller part, the color of the print changes and these weird parts arise.
Settings 1:
Then I tried the Cura standard settings for Upet and it got better, but still bad. And I don't really know what setting is need to change, never saw something like that, also in no print guides. :(
Settings 2:
Settings1:
layer_height = 0.2
wall_thickness = 1.2
retraction_enable = True
solid_layer_thickness = 0.6
fill_density = 100
nozzle_size = 0.6
print_speed = 50
print_temperature = 245
print_temperature2 = 0
print_temperature3 = 0
print_temperature4 = 0
print_temperature5 = 0
print_bed_temperature = 58
support = None
platform_adhesion = Brim
support_dual_extrusion = Both
wipe_tower = False
wipe_tower_volume = 15
ooze_shield = False
filament_diameter = 2.80
filament_diameter2 = 0
filament_diameter3 = 0
filament_diameter4 = 0
filament_diameter5 = 0
filament_flow = 100.0
retraction_speed = 40
retraction_amount = 4.5
retraction_dual_amount = 16.5
retraction_min_travel = 1.5
retraction_combing = All
retraction_minimal_extrusion = 0.02
retraction_hop = 0.2
bottom_thickness = 0.3
layer0_width_factor = 100
object_sink = 0.0
overlap_dual = 0.15
travel_speed = 150
bottom_layer_speed = 40
infill_speed = 60
solidarea_speed = 30
inset0_speed = 50
insetx_speed = 50
cool_min_layer_time = 7
fan_enabled = True
skirt_line_count = 5
skirt_gap = 3.0
skirt_minimal_length = 150.0
fan_full_height = 1
fan_speed = 30
fan_speed_max = 30
cool_min_feedrate = 0
cool_head_lift = False
solid_top = True
solid_bottom = True
fill_overlap = 18
support_type = Grid
support_angle = 45
support_fill_rate = 5
support_xy_distance = 0.7
support_z_distance = 0.15
spiralize = False
simple_mode = False
brim_line_count = 20
raft_margin = 5.0
raft_line_spacing = 3.0
raft_base_thickness = 0.3
raft_base_linewidth = 1.0
raft_interface_thickness = 0.27
raft_interface_linewidth = 0.4
raft_airgap_all = 0.0
raft_airgap = 0.22
raft_surface_layers = 2
raft_surface_thickness = 0.27
raft_surface_linewidth = 0.4
fix_horrible_union_all_type_a = True
fix_horrible_union_all_type_b = False
fix_horrible_use_open_bits = False
fix_horrible_extensive_stitching = False
plugin_config =
object_center_x = -1
object_center_y = -1
Settings2:
layer_height = 0.2
wall_thickness = 1.2
retraction_enable = True
solid_layer_thickness = 0.6
fill_density = 60
nozzle_size = 0.6
print_speed = 50
print_temperature = 250
print_temperature2 = 0
print_temperature3 = 0
print_temperature4 = 0
print_temperature5 = 0
print_bed_temperature = 65
support = None
platform_adhesion = Brim
support_dual_extrusion = Both
wipe_tower = False
wipe_tower_volume = 15
ooze_shield = False
filament_diameter = 2.85
filament_diameter2 = 0
filament_diameter3 = 0
filament_diameter4 = 0
filament_diameter5 = 0
filament_flow = 100.0
retraction_speed = 40.0
retraction_amount = 4.5
retraction_dual_amount = 16.5
retraction_min_travel = 1.5
retraction_combing = All
retraction_minimal_extrusion = 0.02
retraction_hop = 0.0
bottom_thickness = 0.3
layer0_width_factor = 100
object_sink = 0.0
overlap_dual = 0.15
travel_speed = 150.0
bottom_layer_speed = 30
infill_speed = 100
solidarea_speed = 30
inset0_speed = 40
insetx_speed = 80
cool_min_layer_time = 3
fan_enabled = True
skirt_line_count = 1
skirt_gap = 3.0
skirt_minimal_length = 150.0
fan_full_height = 0.5
fan_speed = 50
fan_speed_max = 50
cool_min_feedrate = 10
cool_head_lift = False
solid_top = True
solid_bottom = True
fill_overlap = 15
support_type = Lines
support_angle = 60
support_fill_rate = 15
support_xy_distance = 0.7
support_z_distance = 0.15
spiralize = False
simple_mode = False
brim_line_count = 20
raft_margin = 5.0
raft_line_spacing = 3.0
raft_base_thickness = 0.3
raft_base_linewidth = 1.0
raft_interface_thickness = 0.27
raft_interface_linewidth = 0.4
raft_airgap_all = 0.0
raft_airgap = 0.22
raft_surface_layers = 2
raft_surface_thickness = 0.27
raft_surface_linewidth = 0.4
fix_horrible_union_all_type_a = True
fix_horrible_union_all_type_b = False
fix_horrible_use_open_bits = False
fix_horrible_extensive_stitching = False
plugin_config =
object_center_x = -1
object_center_y = -1
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was genau schief gegangen ist, kann ich dir nicht sagen. Bevor du aber diverse Temperaturen ausprobierst, solltest über sowas die optimale Drucktemperatur/geschwindigkeit für dein Firmament rausfinden --> https://3drucken.ch/2013/01/optimieren-der-drucktemperatur.html
Ansonsten schaut der Rand irgendwie komisch aus und teilweise verbrannt?
Hab von ABS aber auch kein plan, hatte mein ersten abs druck nach 20 Minuten abgebrochen. Der Geruch ist einfach zu hart für Indoor :-|
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Der Wert für Deckel und Boden hat nichts mit der Linienbreite zu tun!
Wie nah die Linien zusammen gedruckt werden, wird schätzungsweise über die Nozzlebreite definiert.
Ansonsten wie du gemeint hasst, sollte man eine Wandstärke nehmen die durch die Düsenbreite teilbar ist. Und kein Problem, solche Gedanken sind ja wichtig damit man cura versteht und richtig einstellen kann
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Meinst du mit Oberer und unterer Oberfläche quasi den Boden und den Deckel? Weil damit hätte der Nozzle (gefühlt will ich es auch immer mit doppel 'o' schreiben) Durchmesser nichts zu tun. Eher was mit der Layerdicke.
Was meinst du mit überschneidung? Die Überschneidung vom Infill? Wenn du eine Wandstärker von 0,4 setzt und eine 0,4 düse hast wirst du auch eine 0,4 Wandstärke bekommen.
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super cool, you're the hero of the month
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@ rpress: Recognized that too, earlier today. The Numbers disappear but the scaling is still applied
Profile for that setting is a really good idea!@ IRobertl: Its really not that much (~ 0,5mm for 100mm). I printed a prototype and that thing didn't fit to the other part. Then I thought the printer is off and looked for calibration. After that I learned about the shrinkage of printed stuff
Now I know what I have to keep in mind for designing stuff, but still its no work to apply the scale and get near 100% prints. -
Hi
I wanted to compensate the shrinking and apply the scale accordingly. Then I recognized that Cura deletes numbers, after you set the second input field.
For example 1,003 results in 1,0. It seems that it keeps the value and just stops showing the last digits. At first I thought it Rounds the values ... Don't know, its kinda confusing.
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Cool, danke für die Info
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Logo Danke!
Wollte es eigentlich erst über die Skalierung in Cura machen, nur werden dort nach der Eingabe die Werte auf zwei Kommastellen gekürzt. Ich dachte erst das Cura die Werte rundet, aber ganz sicher bin ich mir da nicht.
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Hi,
es gibt ja die Möglichkeit den Drucker zu über den M92 Gcode zu kalibrieren, hab ein Probestück gedruckt und gemessen. Um jetzt den M92 richtig zu berechnen braucht man aber auch den Vorherigen Wert. Nur kann ich diesen nirgends finden oder auslesen.
Vorgegangen bin ich nach der Anleitung hier --> http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:195604
Viele Grüße
Polle
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Ja cool, das macht Sinn und vielen Dank für die Details!
Da kommt ein bisschen Licht ins Dunkel.Kam auch nur drauf, weil ich beim ersten Versuch die Geschwindigkeit zu erhöhen einfach mehr gas am UltiController gegeben hab und gleich mal meine erste Verstopfte Düse geerntet hab. Was ja aber dann irgendwas anderes gewesen sein muss. Es waren Standard Settings Fastprint und 120% Speed am Controller. Dann hab ich mich gefragt obs an der Zufuhr lag, aber dann sollte ja das Druckergebnis leiden und nicht verstopfen. Temperatur waren 210° vielleicht war das zu wenig?
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Hi Ultimaker Comunity!
Hab jetzt die ersten drucke mit meinem UMO+ hinter mir und versuche mich jetzt mit den Einstellungen von Cura ausseinander zusetzen. Leider gibt es da keine wirkliche Doku dazu.
Wenn ich z.b. die Layerheight oder die Nozzlesize (hab eine größere) ändere. Auf welche Faktoren bezieht sich das, wird nur der Weg anders berechnet, oder wird z.b. die Materialzufuhr geändert (was irgendwie sinn machen würde, aber ich mir nicht vorstellen kann)
Wenn ich am Ulticontroller die Druckgeschwindikeit erhöhe, wird er quasi nur schneller und vorschub bleibt gleich?
Viele Grüße
Polle
But, well, eh nevermind. The print is fine now 
Ultimaker 1+ print quality is getting worse, what can I do?
in Improve your 3D prints
Posted · Edited by polle
Good afternoon,
I was wondering if anyone knows what I'm up against. I got the Ultimaker 1+ in 2014 and since then it has been just printing, which is really nice and impressive!
But the quality is obviously getting worse. What I tried with the Superslicer test prints:
I have been printing with a 0.6mm nozzle since the beginning. Everything on the printer are still the first parts. These Testprints are made with a new roll of the colorfabb pla, sliced with cura.
My issues:
Any ideas?
Regards, Michael