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  1. Thank you Robert. I ended up ordering a new heater cartridge and it worked right after install. So solved the problem with the heat sensor followed by the heater cartridge, now my left fan is making noise ARGG!!! I am just glad it is printing again though.
  2. Hello everyone, UM2 was working great for a while then all of a sudden I received a temp sensor error. Easy fix right? Checked all wires and they were in securely. Replaced PT100 with a new OEM one along with new teflon coupling. After install I now get the heater Error. I replaced the both heater and sensor wire a few months ago. The Heater wire looks brand new still so don't think that could be it. I made sure heater block is not touching fan unit. Update firmware to latest, same results. Below is a video, any suggestions? When I first turned on the machine, the temperature was 28. Tried to increase to 36.
  3. You are right on @DidierKlein. After experimenting around with different heights for the metal coupler, i decided to swap out the Ollsson Block for my new OEM heater block. I couldn't get the block to not touch the bottom of the fan bracket. I'll wait until labern finalizes his model or metal version. I don't print with exotic material or plan to anytime soon so I can wait. Thank you DidieKlein for your input on this and Super thanks to @gr5 for recommending me to play with different temperatures for printing PLA. AFter putting on the new OEM heater block, telflon coupler and so on, I test printed a ring with temp set at 230 C and printing at 50 mm/sec, it gave me the best print to date since owning my UM2. It came out flawlessly and not even one string of material or hole can be found. The top layer is just as smooth as the bottom layer which I never could get. I am really liking this printer now
  4. Last week I found out I had to replace my teflon coupler because the print quality was going south. Took the heating head off and my PT100 wire got stuck and broke off. So I ordered a new wire and also ordered the Olsson block. I always print with PLA with the default temperature of 210C. Even after installing the Olsson block my print was not the greatest so with a little googling I did the 5 degree increment and found out it was printing great at 220C. gr5 gave me a listed of suggested heating temperatures for certain speeds. So for the first time since owning my UM2 I decided to see what the print quality was like if I increase the nozzle temperature to 230. It printed a few layers then stopped with the Heater error and to contact UM support. I did some googling and at the time I was running Cura 15.01 and saw that this version had problems with Heater Error, great so I updated my version to 15.02 and printed a test but again it stopped. I then went to the Cura website and see that there's a 15.04 so I installed that but the problem is still there. Below is a video of a test print at 210 C. I started to record right after I tuned it and increased the temperature to 230. Within a few layers, the error message pops up again. https://www.dropbox.com/s/mm4casjfn9jvc4w/Video%20Jun%2014%2C%2011%2025%2019%20PM.mov?dl=0 Anyone had this happen to and found a solution? I searched the forum for Heater Error and tried all suggested methods but still getting the error. All wires are fully seated and nothing loose.
  5. Received my Olssen block today and was excited to get it installed. My first test ring went well however, when it was printing the second one, the quality looked like crap again. I am in the process of taking the whole block apart again and noticed that there are a lot of filament on the threads of the nozzle, is that normal? I cleaned it up a little before taking this picture but you can see traces of it still. I checked the step motor pullies and they are still tight. I also ordered OEM nozzles from fbr8 and they also arrived today. Tempted to put those on but will give Olssen block another try. Heard really good stuff about it.
  6. Thanks guys, I've had the unit for less than 3 months and don't think I've reached the 100 hr mark yet. I've been using Matterhacker's PLA but when I took off the heat shield, there's a build up of the grey PLA that came with the unit. This must've happened a while ago because I haven't used that color. There's not much info out there on how to take this UM2 apart. After a few hours I was able to take off the motherboard cover to reveal the heat sensor wires. Ideally I would like to yank off the whole black cord that wraps all of the wires for the head but that would mean taking out the motherboard to disconnect the blue and orange wires which are connected on the top. So My workaround this will be to tape the new PT100 wire to the old one from the bottomand pull it out from the top. I am going to email Simon and see if he has any idea why this burnt out so quickly.
  7. Thanks Skinny, I decided to take apart my hot end and everything was going well until I had to yank out the temperature sensor. I've printed less than two rolls of filament. When I saw the hot end unit, I have a good feeling now I know why my prints are the way they are. Looks like my printer sharted itself. Now the fun part of trying to figure out how to take apart the UM2 to replace the white temperature wire. Ordered about $130+ worth of replacement parts from fbrc8. My rear fan has always made a weird noise so ordered one of those to see if it suppose to make that noise or not. I've only printed with PLA so far, so would think it would have lasted longer.
  8. Hey guys, printer was working fine for the longest time then all of sudden, my prints seems to have gaps in the material even when come out of the extruder. I took the material out, cleaned the nozzle to make sure there's nothing preventing the flow. Changed the material and still same results. Any direction would be appreciated, thanks! Notice the holes in the outer ring I also tried adjusting the tension on the feeder, same results.
  9. After playing around with the machine yesterday morning I was able to finally get consecutive good prints! Paper method did not work for me, what did work was eyeballing the nozzle so that it touches the plate then backing off until I could see light through it then I stopped. I couldn't slide a standard paper underneath it but it still printed really nice. So first and last layers should be printed around 20 mm/s? I'll make changes to my gcodes. Thanks you everyone for your input and feedback.
  10. Thanks Shurik, been working with Fbrc8 trying different heights and different things but nothing is working. Last night I tried to print with the brim and this is what it looked like: I've calibrated the machine many times before and the print came out great with the same gcodes I am using now. Just haven't been able to get any sort of success lately. This morning feeling fresh out of bed I decided to give it another go. Cleaned surface, applied a light layer of glue, bed temperature at 60 and nozzle at 210. Did the paper calibration until I felt a little resistance as stated in manual. Results: https://www.dropbox.com/s/hnlwds0w3nqeov9/Video%20Mar%2027%2C%2010%2021%2046%20AM.mov?dl=0
  11. Okay so with the feedback I went ahead cleaned the plate again. So clean you can eat off of it Nozzle remains at 210 degrees and build plate temperature brought back down to 60 C. Attempt to print the Ultimaker Robot Results: http://vid1105.photobucket.com/albums/h350/donnydu/3D/F8DF6DF9-A48E-45E7-B252-1BDF6F5B2D0F.mp4
  12. I guess the excitement was premature. After print above was done I tried to duplicate it right away to see if the fix was consistent. It started messing up again.
  13. I was contacted by fbrc8 support last night and tried a few things. I bent the fan back down or tried to but it still leaves a 1/8 gap compared to the right fan. 1. Recalibrate using paper method, also using default settings for PLA. Nozzle = 210 and bed = 60. One layer of included glue and using Ultimaker filament that came with the unit. Result = another plastic ball 2. Recalibrate using paper method but this time once I felt the paper being tugged, turn knob 1/4 counter clockwise. Again settings set to default for PLA. Result = plastic ball 3. Calibrate using eyeballing method, get the nozzle as close to the plate as possible. Same results. That's where we left off with fbrc8. Last night I was searching the forums and read somewhere that someone didn't use glue and set plate to 75 degrees and that worked well for him. So this morning I cleaned the plate, gave it a quick rub with alcohol, set plate to 75 degrees and it worked! Here is a video of what usually happens when I tried the earlier methods http://vid1105.photobucket.com/albums/h350/donnydu/3D/D0960F70-A528-4446-8C61-1356399EF669.mp4 Do you guys normally use a bed temperature higher than default for different materials?
  14. You guys definitely have a good eye! I never noticed that the left fan is bent upwards compared to the right one. Every time I am observing the fan, I am just staring at the blades. I have since emailed FBRC8 based on dynamism recommendations. The unit is less than 2 weeks old. Last night I was able to print two really nice pieces then in the morning before work, I let it run again having more confidence. Then 20 mins later when I came back I saw this: My bed is heated to 60 degrees and I always make sure the bed is clean with a layer or two of the glue.
  15. Thanks for the input everyone. I ended up taking out the filament, making sure everything is moving correctly. Then recalibrated the bed. I usually do the paper test but this time I decided to get the nozzle as close to the glass as possible. It is now printing well again. This is with 100mm/s I make internal pieces for air guns so these go inside of a shroud. I am a beginner with CAD and currently using TinkerCad. What I find is that when I make the outside diameter let's say 28mm. Cura/printer prints out perfectly. However, the inside hole is a challenge to get right. I have to play with the numbers to make that slide onto the barrel nice and snug. Is the left fan suppose to go as fast as the right one? I notice that my left fan changes speed from time to time. The right one is always super fast and spins at a constant speed.
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