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ihackstuff

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  1. Thanks. I"m trying to decrease temp right now.. Trying 205. I wish there was a way to set speed accurately during the job. The panel only shows a percentage (like it's at 100% now).. Also, I'm at 50mm/s speed right now.
  2. Hello everyone! I'm having a consistent irregularity when I print small details. I get the artifacts which you can see in the picture below, on the 2016 and on the lower rings. They are "nozzle blobs". Any ideas how to reduce those? Or am I trying to print too small. FWIW, this entire piece is 38mm wide. I have a UM2, Olson block, .4mm nozzle, Robert's feeder and I'm printing with Ultimaker Yellow PLA@210 (I'm not sure what kind of filament that is because I don't think Ultimaker sells filament anymore...) Thanks everyone!
  3. Awesome! This is exactly the kind of thing I'm looking for! Thank you so much!
  4. My Go arrived here in Africa by way of the US in the gray foam carry case and it did fine. I'm getting ready to travel again this time on a dodgy African flight (to do some school demos) and I want to make sure it arrives safely. Any suggestions for packing it? I assume the glass gets removed and put in the rubber corner protectors but what about the print head? Maybe stabilizing with zip ties? I don't know. Any ideas or suggestions? I'm assuming it must remain right side up but again not sure. Thanks in advance!
  5. Hey everyone! As the title suggests I'm looking for some examples I can print on my Ultimaker 2 or Go that demonstrate good design, interesting art, clever functionality or all of the above. I'm doing a demonstration for a middle / high school and I'm looking to get students excited about design, engineering, art and of course 3D printing. One example I've already selected is a "dust shield" that has a print in place hinge which is really slick (sorry I'm mobile and don't have a link) and a prosthetic Raptor Reloaded hand. I'm especially keen on print in place gadget design because it's like a brain teaser.. "How did they do that?" Thanks for any suggestions!
  6. Hi everyone! Well, problem solved! As it turns out, there was a manufacturing "defect" / "oops". Here's what I did. I loosened the drive pulley for the motor, then moved the printhead. It moved fine. That told me it wasn't a pulley problem, or anything in the printhead, etc. That pointed to the motor, so I removed the side panel and removed the motor, and it wouldn't turn easily by hand. My heart sunk because I won't be able to get motors very easily. But I noticed that the wires for the motor were pinned by the motor below: It seems that when the Go was assembled, this wire got pinned in there by mistake. The wires were beginning to fray: When I separated the wires, the motor spun freely by hand! So I repaired the wires, and put everything together and now I'm back in action! Two good prints so far and everything looks great! Thanks for the help everyone!
  7. Here's the video! Note that the sound happens well before we hit the switch. So I don't think it has anything to do with the XY switch. Thanks!
  8. Thanks! I'll definitely shoot a video. IT will be a slow upload.. I'm in Uganda. :-) How do I get out of the first run wizard?
  9. Hi everyone! Thanks for all the advice on the this forum! Unfortunately I can't find any threads talking about my particular problem. I was in the middle of a print and my relatively new Go started "grinding", like the motors were struggling. It was really a terrible sound. I killed the power immediately, and did a reset. During the "first time" wizard, the z axis worked fine, and then the X and Y headed home and as it neared the back corner the noise started again, and I got the X Y limit switch broken message. I don't think it's the limit switch because the noise happened near the center of the bed the first time. When the machine makes this noise, I can move the head manually back and forth towards me (X axis, right?) but it resists quite a bit when I try to move left and right (Y axis?). It's not nearly as smooth as the back and forth motion, and not what I feel on my larger Ultimaker 2. The belts seem to be engaged, they don't seem to be slipping, but I just don't know where to start to troubleshoot. I'm thankful to anyone who can offer assistance. Thanks!
  10. Just wanted to let everyone know that my problem is solved! The problem was under extrusion due to the feeder. I've used Robert's feeder for a while now and have been happy, but I didn't pay much attention to the screw that holds the bearing assembly. As it turns out it was way too loose, and when the feeder motor spun, the bearing did not. So, the feeder wasn't feeding properly. Robert's feeder design is awesome, but I didn't understand how tight that bearing was supposed to be, but that's what it was. Now the Colorfabb is printing REALLY well! Than you all!
  11. Hi all! I've just gotten a batch of colorFabb PLA/PHA 2.85mm (White) for my Ultimaker 2 based on all the rave reviews. When I print on my Ultimaker 2 Go (brand new! I'm so excited!) it prints like a dream. A little bit of stringing but not a big deal. When I print on my Ultimaker 2, it printer really well in flat layers (although there is a bit of separation between the lines) but when it comes time to do uprights, all hell breaks loose. The layers start skipping and it gets really bad. I've tried reading the troubleshooting guide, and the material guide, and the forums posts and set my nozzle temperature higher (227 or so) and that fuses the lines together on the flat runs, but doesn't make a difference when it comes time to do the uprights. I've done 210, 220, 225 and they all act the same. I also had some warping so I tried 60 and 65 on the calibration print, and I'm not seeing warping but I saw warping on a much bigger print, so I'm not sure if that's resolved. I did an atomic clean five times and we're good there. I also leveled my bed which might help the warping. I'm using the standard calibration test print, so I don't know the Cura settings for it. I have Robert's feeder on the Ultimaker 2, and I am having a small problem where I have to manually feed the filament past the motor, and guide it into the bowden with a file handle (this is new with the Colorfabb) so I'm not sure if Robert's feeder is adjusted right. I do have slight marks on the filament once it gets past the feeder, but not as deep as with the Ultimaker filament. I'd sure love some advice. I'm scratching my head. This Colorfabb is AMAZING on my go! I'd love to have it working on the regular size Ultimaker! Thanks! Johnny
  12. Yes, definitely that old ABS, which makes this clog MONTHS old! :-O I marked mine as the best answer because of the pictures, but gave credit to SandervG for the awesome idea! Thanks everyone!
  13. Edit: (I'm marking this as the best answer because of the pictures, but it was SandervG that got me this idea.) I just wanted to follow up and let everyone know how this turned out, in case it helps someone else. Atomic Cleaning (http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/10-the) did wonders. But even though I'm printing PLA, I had to crank the temperature up to 260 degrees, because some really tough junk had accumulated inside the nozzle. The high heat burned it off. Finally. You can see in the pictures that even after 4 passes at 220, the "cone" on my removed filament was incomplete. This was where the junk was hiding. Towards the end, 260 degrees was my magic number. First pass at 220 degrees. Lots and lots of junk on the filament and the tip: Second pass at 220, more junk, but notice the deformed cone. This told me there was more stuck in the nozzle that wasn't coming up. It's like a cool reverse image "Xray" of what's inside the nozzle: Third pass at 220. Looks better, but the cone is still deformed: Another pass at 220. Relatively clean, but that cone is unacceptable: Last pass at 220. Clean, and deformed, but that filament strand and the deformity tells me there's still crap in there: You can see here that at 250 degrees, finally, some of that black junk came out. Notice it's in the exact same place as the hole in the cone in the previous steps. Finally, that spot is loosening up because of the higher temps: And finally, a pass at 260 degrees. Clean, and really nice looking. There's still some crud on the wall, though: The last pass at 260 came out clean as a whistle. The filament is stretchy because of the heat, and the fact that I didn't pull it out sharply. I got lazy. :-) Thanks for the help everyone! It's good to be back in action! And the filament isn't "curling" anymore. It comes straight down. For months I've had to tease the filament out to keep it from curling up. I should have realized it was a problem sooner.
  14. Thanks for this info, but could you clarify a bit? So if I'm reading right, you drag the screwdriver over the first layer of a print after the first layer prints, and I've paused? And I see if the layer slides across the bed? Sorry I'm new at this. :-)
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