Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

nocen

Dormant
  • Content Count

    5
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

Personal Information

  • Country
    US
  • Industry
    Education
    (Product) design
    Fashion
    Medicine
    Engineering
    R&D / Exploration
  1. that article is one of the ones i read in prep for the upgrade and proved one of the best/reassuring. the different brands degraded varying reasons, most of the pcb showed signs of burning/warping and/or cracking, the silicone ones were harder to tell since i didn't do any destructive investigation since they all still "functioned" to a point. just adding a door seems to have brought the warm-up time to within 5min of its original time. the um2 never seems to amaze me. i had planned on making an elaborate enclosure but its good enough for now. i have some heat sinks on the way for the steppe
  2. haha i derped and missed the fact it was <= and not =. i just ordered the ipm, thanks for showing it to me... amazingly, after ~1150hrs (more than 400m in material) of printing the current insulator isn't even deformed from its original dimensions but the edges are getting a dark brown. i have 2 nozzle assemblies on my way to dual so if i eve to need pla (idk who i would) ill just run it through extruder 2 or use it in a (in)soluble support manner. i found most other abs brands do run cooler so at this point i consider /my/ problem solved.
  3. I just added a PEI sheet on top of the glass of my UM2 (100% abs "fail" rate before PEI btw). Using stock ABS settings the corners warped >30% of the print's radius/length/width...size (xy plane). I raised the temp up to 99c and speed down to 80%, warping decreased to like ~10%. So I moved the bed ~1 turn of the leveling knobs closer after scouring every problematic PEI post and wet sanded lightly with 1500 grit. This helped but I still get 1-2mm of warping (zx plane and xy planes). One thing I saw in PEI research was 110&50c seem to be the magic numbers for PEI, 110 being the temp whe
  4. Sorry for such a late reply, got side tracked adding a pei sheet. The IPM isolator seems perfect. A lot easier than my original plan of making a ceramic one. With that in place we would be ok with raising the max temp in the firmware. I did take a look at my teflon one and having run at 260 for a while now its doing better than expected but worse than I hoped it would. And it would be nice to find a brand that works well at a cooler temp just to make everything easier. current temp-ish solution has been using 260 and printing at 90-75% speed...depending on what I'm printing
  5. hi, new to the forum and have the same issue. The nozzle is clean and only a week old (whole printer none-the-less). Just some background, I've been hands on 3dp'ing since the SD2 came out and with the whole span of materials and I've used my friend's UM2's for a long time but he never used ABS so this is technically but not theoretically uncharted territory for me. The abs is from ultimaker directly. It shows the signs of being processed under-temp. I'm looking for a solution that isn't more than surface changes since i don't want to modify or change my UM2 much (background reasons for this,
×
×
  • Create New...