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Ollienor

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  1. I know this is old but I thought I'd comment about a similar problem I had. My UM2 died 10 mins into a print as yours did, although I had no lights no nothing, wouldn't turn on or anything. Power brick was fine (tested with multimeter). I had recently replaced the nozzle temperature sensor. Turns out when I unscrewed the hot end and screwed it back up again after feeding the thermocouple wires through, I had just nipped the corners of the fan wires in between two of the aluminium pieces. I didn't realize I had done this and it didn't give me a problem until the hot end heated up thoroughl
  2. Tobus - while the um2 does give nozzle and bed temperature feedback, this is through two thermocouples which do have an adequate resolution for this purpose, but in order to be completely accurate they would need to be individually calibrated which I'm sure they are not. Relying on the manufacturers data for the thermocouples is sure to introduce some degree of error. That being said, it's probably perfectly fine/negligible.
  3. I've been playing with HIPS on my UM2 and found everything you say to be absolutely the case. The main problem is layer adhesion, which means the print is terribly weak. It warps much more than expected, I would actually say quite a bit more than abs. I haven't found a reliable way to get it to stick to the bed, the blue tape works to some degree but only ever on the first go, you can't print more than one print on the same bit of blue tape without replacing. I think this material is far too troublesome to be worthwhile. It's also worth noting that I printed quite a thick piece and was a
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