the_schire
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Posts posted by the_schire
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Oh yeah, I forgot it was UMO :)Default for that is 40mm/s. It wouldnt hurt to slow it up a bit as fast moves can tend to grind, Its like yanking on a rope with a weight on the other end fast can hurt your hands but pulling slowly doesnt. but if its retracting multiple times over the same bit of filament you can change the minimum extrude before retracting to help also
If I changed the minimum extrude, what would happen if it needs to retract before it reaches that minimum? Would it just lay down plastic somewhere else? Also what speed would you recommend for our machines? I feel like. 30 ish would work, but I haven't tinkered at all with retraction settings. Thanks!
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On things that need quite high support I use grid, It is less likely to fall or break. You could also try adjusting you retraction settings or printing a bit cooler to help stop oozing or stringing.
That's good to know about the grid. I think my retractions may be a little fast as the filament sometimes gets ground up when retracting. What settings would you recommend for retraction? Right now it's set at 40mm/s and 4.5mm.
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So I'm in the process of printing the frame to a 250 ish sized racing quad, and I'm having a lot of problems with the central body piece. It has a lot of overhangs, and definitely requires support at the front and back. However, my support material is getting very distorted (for lack of a better term) at the rear. I've printed two so far, one with support touching bed only, then another with support everywhere. But both times the support (at the back portion mostly) turned into a scrambled mess before fixing itself .
Can anyone point me in the right direction to fix what's going on? Thanks!
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Damn, can I hang out at your place for a few... years?
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...Colorfabb
Didn't you have any problem, when you were using Colorfabb's filament in that temperature?
It doesn't work too great when there's a lot of retraction (I'm seeking help on that one, probably my machine) but it also may depend on the color you got. I've talked to people using the white printing around 210, or even as low as 208. What speed did you print at?
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I quickly read through the post and first I wanted to say that when you think you are underextruding cranking up the temperature is not always the solution.
It can be a 'quick fix', but can result in other problems later. What happens is that while the rate at which it is being extruded remains the same, there is more heath and the heath will travel up through the filament making a larger area softer and will continue to do so.
This can result that the entire hot end (brass tube) can be filled with melted filament.
When going cooler again, this filament which is on the inside of the tube won't melt all the way probably and your path will be more narrow than it is suppose to be.
Potentially the heath can also crawl up into the top of the bowden tube.
When there is some slack/movement in the bowden tube while retracting, it can crawl in the opening and cause a blob.
When this happens it can't go back or forth anymore and you have to remove the bowden tube and cut off the first string of filament.
In our latest (and first) Schooling blog we wrote about how to secure the bowden tube.
It is aimed at the Ultimaker 2, but the concept remains the same.
What can happen when you have a lot of retraction is that the movement, friction plus heath of the motor can deform or soften the filament.
Instead of changing the settings in the firmware, I would first look into your extruder.
Is the bolt clean or does it have a lot of residu?
Is it not too tight?
Can the delrin wheel still rotate freely?
Are there no obstacles in your printhead-area?
Yes.. there is some art to it ;)Good luck!
Yeah, I had my suspicions that heat was traveling up the filament causing it to get a little mangled and block flow. About the extruder, I'm pretty sure I'm doing something wrong, but it's been working pretty well. the delrin "U" shaped piece that goes over the other delrin pieces is flaring out where it comes in contact with the two locking nuts. I noticed it does this no matter how tight the tension screw is because that spring is so tense. While I haven't double checked in a while, I'm fairly confident that the little delrin wheel can spin freely. Lastly, I have to position the retention arm on the extruder at its lowest position and crank the screw down as tight as possible or he bolt won't grab the filament. Perhaps that's due to my settings, but I'm not sure. I'll double check everything and experiments with the positioning of the arm tomorrow evening when I have time.
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...Colorfabb
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What about speed? I think it's the speed that's causing the grinding.
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So I've been having a bit of trouble with prints that require a lot of retraction at one time, usually with more than just a little bit of support. When it retracts a lot, the material is getting ground up in my extruder. I've been using the default of 40mm/s and 4.5mm. What retraction settings are you using?
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PLA or XT? I've been printing at 215 with the white PLA.
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Print yourself one of these http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:140857
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You can pick multiple locations. I believe I picked the 19V leds port. But if you pick the HB you can turn it on and off using Gcode :)I opted for a switch hidden in the bottom.
Yeah I was thinking about getting a silver 16mm anti vandal switch with blue LED to match my strips. Thanks for the help!
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Using a DC DC converter should be the best solution.
Well, if a lm7812 doesn't put out that much heat, I think a small heat sink on either side will be more than enough.
I read in that thread that caps were added to compensate for flickering?
Lastly, what port did you plug all this into on the board? I read that people were using the heated bed power? But wouldn't that not always be powered?
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Take a look at this topic and my entries there
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/1605-adding-12v-leds-to-ultimaker
It's hard to see from your picture, but did you also wire in those three caps on your board? Also, how big of a heat sink would be required? I have some small ones that used to be on some bad stepper drivers. Would that be enough, or would the LM7812 require more?
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But that thread is discussing the umo+, which I read uses the um2 board. Do the two have the same board? I have a umo, which I read uses 19v for power. Also, does this mean they have the same layout and would have the same 12v connector on the board?
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Hey guys, I've been seeing a lot of fancy looking UMO's and UMO+ with LED strips in the frame, and I would like to do this with mine. I have some 12v blue flex LED strips lying around, but I seem to recall hearing that the UMO uses 19v for all of its electronics. How might I go about adding some sexy LED's to my machine? Thanks.
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I have an actual corner for my UMO, sitting pretty on top of a steamer chest my great(great, not sure how many greats are in there) grandmother took with all of her belongings to start a new life in America. My happy corner/Ultimaker also has a severe case of attracting all the tools from every corner of my house. Need to get some led strips to make it shinny and bright.
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I think I found my problem with inconsistency, bed leveling. I was positioning the corners of the bed too close to the nozzle causing pressure to build and force the filament to jam, blocking flow. I leveled my bed with a piece of paper to get the .1mm right and The print is going first try.
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Yeah it's been a little inconsistent in whether or not it will work, but when it works, it does so beautifully.
How do you change that pre-extrusion setting?
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215 went pretty well for a CSGO Karambit I printed, but it did take a lot of trial and error to finally get it working. I think a lower temperature will be needed.
Also, I noticed that I have to have the extruder push some filament through the nozzle or it won't feed when I actually try to print. It doesn't matter if it was just printing 15 seconds ago, it needs to push a few mm's for it to feed right.
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Small update, the bit of luck I had at 220 was a fluke, now I'm trying 215 from the get go. I have noticed that the filament jams frequently, getting bent at the end of the bowden tube.
I'm going to try turning the temperature down to 210 if the print I'm running right now fails after a first layer at 215.
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I've been having some success at 60mm/s, starting at 220 and then backing down to 215.
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I use Inventor Pro and Fusion 360. I have been using Fusion more frequently though because of its more intuitive interface, free form sculpting feature, and the fact that it produces better renderings of your parts.
If you don't mind lying about your occupation (assuming you're done with school) and you don't use your models and projects for your job, you can get all of Autodesk's software for FREE (that's a whopping $0) through their student program here. You're welcome.
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I printed the statue at 220, but I don't have time to print anything else until tomorrow afternoon. That being said, I'm pretty happy with the results using default settings, but that's really only my first real print with the material.
ColorFabb Filament temperature
in Materials & profiles
Posted
I think I have to lower the temperature, 230 to 210.
Well it depends. With my machine and pla/pha white, 215 at 60mm/s works great. I have heard from other users that this filament is the most difficult to print with, but those settings work pretty good for me. However if you get any other color, 210 at 50 is probably a good starting point, but you should tinker and test from there.