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Gencab

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Posts posted by Gencab

  1.  

    7 hours ago, geert_2 said:

    I don't know about the UMO, but on the UM2 the bushings definitely need oil. Oil does not only reduce friction, thus it prevents metal on metal wear, but it also allows trapped dust to be removed, thereby again reducing wear.

     

    Officially the UM2 rods need thin sewing machine oil. But I found that this dries too quickly (may depend on oil brand and composition), so now I use a high grade hydraulic oil, also used in industrial applications like hydraulic test benches, tractors, bulldozers,... This oil does not dry out at all, it lubricates well, and it contains anti-corrosion and anti-foam additives. Not sure if this is the best solution, but it works for me. One of the other reasons why I use this, is because I have a lot of spare of it.

     

    Concerning bent rods: maybe you could see if that shows up if you print a thin test layer of 0.1mm? It should cause a wave-pattern in the thickness, of the same distace as the circumference of the rods?

     

     

     

    The UMO, UMO+, UM2 and so on share the same motion components only the arrangement is slightly different depending on the model so in that regard the problems and solutions would be very similar. I think ill give hydraulic oil a shot and see what that produces. Im trying to track down what is causing a layer shift between 7 and 8 mm only on X axis no matter the model. I suspect this is a factor but I cant seem to figure out what the catalyst is for a layer shift to happen several millimeters in to a print. 

    20190415_152544.jpg

  2. On my Ultimaker Original Plus I have been fighting this odd binding issue. When the X and Y along that run along the belts are aligned (I do this very meticulously)  the bushings bind against the right side rod only moving away from the front. When motion is applied in towards the front of the unit no binding is present and is very smooth. If I clean the rod after a print the binding is less present but you can slightly feel it. After a print the binding is back.

     

    So what im trying to determine is

    - do the bushings need to be replaced?

    - did the rods get bent?

    -do I need to apply any kind of lube to the rods? Seems like this would only mask the problem.

     

    You help is very appreciated.

    Thanks

  3. Listing here

    http://ebay.us/ZAXe9H?cmpnId=5338273189

    compatible with the Ultimaker 2+/2Ext+, Ultimaker 2 (inc Go and Extended variants), and the Ultimaker Original+.

     

    Wanted to give you guys first dibs on it if anyone desperately needed one. Need to be flashed before use as I had VERY custom firmware on it. I replaced mine with a Duet2 Maestro. All working with zero issues. Does have some browning around the stepper drivers but this seems to be common with these boards after some use. 

  4. I have been playing with firmware as of late on my Ultimaker Maker Original Plus. Yesterday a print failed to thermal runaway. My first thought was it was something I did wrong in the firmware to cause a bad reading. So Today I attempted to go through some general health checks on the printer. Make sure fans work, hotend, and so on. When I attempted to to heat the bed it generated a thermal runaway error yet again. Time to hardware bash and check all the connections. Only took 5 seconds to find the problem. (see Pic).

     

    This printer is roughly 3 years old? On close inspection I noted the damaged wire had already grown a layer of oxide around the exposed portions. So not a new problem. Taking a step back I realized there was little to no strain relief for the heatbed wire. There is what I would call a clamp loosely securing the wire to the aluminum foundation plate but that's about it. Seems the years of motion have taken there toll.  I went to fbrc8 figuring I could get a new wire harness. Not the case as fbrc8 sells OEM replacements not components. So a replacement bed is a last resort considering the expense. (edited, original was not helpful) 

     

    Five minutes of lousy soldering (my solder skills are bad) and a 30min session in tinker cad resolved the issue. Heated bed works and with a new strain relief should not have a repeat of this problem. 

     

     

     

    20180727_142912.thumb.jpg.5b1cc34d9f5a0b424f9fb2f9019ca1c5.jpg

  5. I suppose what im trying to achieve is a firmware with the same feature set I currently have while having the ability to add sensors or just simply continue on without starting over from scratch. It seems however that is exactly what needs to happen.

     

    I can start with the Armedee or Ultimaker base firmware and modify from there. I simply need to get over the learning curve of Marlin in general. Can anyone recommend a good intro source to understanding marlin's layout and definitions other than the Wiki and git?

  6. Howdy folks its been a while.

    Since I have modified my UMO+ heavily I have found joy in custom firmware and its merits when the need arises to make changes. My favorite has been AmadeeBulle / Marlin found here https://bultimaker.bulles.eu/ . Up to this point this very well made firmware builder has suited my every need. I have hit an impasse however due to my own personal limitations. To the novice like myself Marlin can be a bit daunting. The builders have me somewhat spoiled. Now I need to modify it again yet my builder of choice offers no such option. From my understanding I only have a few options unless someone can kindly point me in a better direction.

    Option 1. Compile Marlin from scratch. This seems like doing much more work than needed given option 2

    Option 2. Edit AmdeeBulle's or Ultimaker Marlin to suit my needs. Seems like the correct choice but I have no idea how to find the variables I need to change and what they need to be.

    Option 3. Find a way to edit the firmware I have. Doing some searching on this it seems this is not doable as having a .hex and MD5 hash is not enough to load in to Arduino IDE. Shame since its already set the way I like it. ?

    Option 4. Bang head against the wall until something happens. This hurts. Cant remember much after. 

     

    Thanks

  7. Good point amedee. I was eluding to the cooling on my setup in particular. I have a Original Prusa MK2 with E3D v6 hotend and prints small PLA models fine. Seeing as that's virtually the same hotend only a 1.75mm version I am suspect that the fans simply are not cooling the PLA enough. Perhaps my choice in hotend mount and fans has something to do with my results.

    Do you think a fan with higher flow would help?

  8. Following up with my project. I have added a 40mm 5v Noctua fan to the E3D cooling duct with a shallow adapter. This works as well as I would have hoped. The fan is now board controlled and all 3 fans are whisper quiet.

    I have tested this out with a few PLA prints and I can see what ultiarjan was talking about with the upgrade effecting PLA print quality. Any small prints with the eSun pla + is simply to hot to hold a form and ends up with some deformations. Large prints however perform fantastically. So PLA is still fine for this as long as its something larger than a Benchy.

    I have yet to attempt any other materials since I don't have them yet and the glass bed is next on my list of improvements to make. Ill be adding a PEI sheet to the glass for improved bed adhesion without the need of glue stick or blue tape. Once done ill tackle ABS prints with the new hotend. Now that I am thinking about it I wonder how good the adhesion is with PETG on bare glass.

  9. Double check your kit when you get it, mine is a year or two old, so they may have changed the packaging.

    Either way: for the 5v fan, use J34 header (labeled "FAN 5V") in the middle of the board; for the 24v fan, use the J20 header (labeled "FAN 19-14V") located at the short side of the board.

    Note that if you have a recent board (2.1.4) the 5v fan output is not activated by default on UMO+, you will need a custom firmware (e.g. mine 8))

     

    Pulled the fan off to be sure its 24v and yes it is. So connected to J20 (Fan 19-24v) out. J14 Fan_pwm is being used by the part cooling fans. This means the v6 fan is on always with power. Would be great if I can figure out a way to temp control that fan. You recommendation to the custom firmware was spot on. Thanks for that.

  10. So I made the plunge to update my UMO+ with a V6 hotend. There are many ways to go about this it turns out and none of them are exactly straight forward. So I chose my mod and proceeded.

    I chose a dual fan mount for my hotend

    https://www.youmagine.com/designs/e3d-v6-hot-end-mount

    and some new blocks to compinsate the new clearance requirements

    https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-xy-blocks-with-banana-tensioner

    I decided on some Noctua fans for the efficiency and low noise. 40mm

    NF-A4x10 FLX

    http://noctua.at/en/products/fan

    And of course the E3d V6 kit.

    http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Full-Kit/v6-full-kit-3mm-Bowden

    I did choose to use the original heater and thermister that came with the UMO+ and not the ones supplied in the kit after reading some mixed results. This makes things much more simple for installation as a bonus.

    20161231_193913.thumb.jpg.0e331b635d00f28f2f278f13914743d5.jpg

    So now I'm at wiring and that's where the questions start. From what I saw in other posts the two part cooling fans can be connected in series and plug right in to the board. The E3d heatbreak fan is a different story. I saw on the UM2 in the E3d wiki you simply plug this fan in to the PWM fan on the board then download modified firmware and your off the races. The UMO+ and UM2 series share the same board. The output is 5v as needed. So the question.

    Can I connect the fan to the PWM fan on the board?

    Do I need to modify the firmware to make this work properly? If so how and what changes?

    ps: ultiarjan I know your probably going to ask at some point. So this is for you. I know you have had issues with PLA in the past with the V6. My goal for this upgrade is for more options with printing materials and I wasn't completely satisfied with the original hotend from the start. I saw your feedback in many posts and it was very enlightening and helpfull. Your opinion is most welcome. :D

    Thanks for all the help.

    20161231_193913.thumb.jpg.0e331b635d00f28f2f278f13914743d5.jpg

  11. I agree with neotoko. Having said that, it should work. How does Cura fail? Does it try for a while and give up? Does it give any error message? Does the printer restart at all?

     

    It starts the loading process then within 5 seconds fails. After that the printer restarts about 20 seconds later.

    neotko your advice is well founded. Ill leave it be unless there is some noteworthy improvement. Thanks for the advice.

  12. neotko

    If you don't mind me asking. What are the pros and cons to this upgrade? I found your files on Youmagine and was instantly intrigued. I keep looking at the kit trying to figure out what i'm missing. It tickles the tinker itch very much. If I am assuming properly this will allow better prints vs our original + print head. Just trying to figure out how.

    Thanks for this tutorial and the files. It looks amazing!

  13. I got the broken nozzle out using a "screw extractor"

    5a33110ed0cfa_screwextractorset3-18mm.jpg.f50fefa81474322eb585b8d6faa2da5b.jpg

     

    So I got a set of extractors just like this. It completely deformed the block and retapped the threads. Bummer but I wasn't expecting that block to be salvageable. I don't think there was enough meat for the bit to chew in to. On a side note. That particular aluminum is very soft. Not sure what grade it is but it can be very tough to grab on to without deforming it even with my delicate component pliers. Replacement parts should start arriving today. I made sure to get extras.

  14. Acetal? What? I didn't even know that was an option for 3D printing!

    Looks like I need to build a chamber! And some kind of vent.....hmm....that might be a challenge.

    Have you used this Acetal filament? I am always worried about filament that says 3mm.

     

    I haven't printed with it yet. Its on my list of to do's. Acetal is a good materal for low friction fuctional parts. Sort of a mix of properties between teflon and ABS. It also has a great chimical resistance property. I have used the material in blocks for PC water cooling. Works great as a water block as well. Keep in mind it off gasses formaldehyde when heated to melting point so it should be printed with ventilation in mind.

  15. I need to make a "functional" out door part.

    I was going to buy some black ABS, but it is out of stock.

    Do any of you know how the XT stuff performs out doors? Hot, cold, wet, dry, the works.

    Thanks.

     

    Acetal may be what your looking for. A decent wright up can be found here

    Found for sale here

    Acetal Delrin data located here

  16. I would offer in general 3D printers are more tools than a product you put on the shelf like a paper printer. Like most tools there is a right way and a wrong way to use them. Like complex mechanical tools they have different personalities an quirks. In my very short experience Ultimakers are well behaved when compared to other manufactured brands. Little love goes a long way for successful prints.

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