ieol2015
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Posts posted by ieol2015
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Thanks for that cloakfiend this is how I removed product from a raft as my first post method
I find this technique a bit complicated, even if make the ABS print comes out pretty well from the support.
It could be nice if you could make a video of the entire process
Regards
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OK here goes. 19 mins for begginers.
That's nice! :)but I will never take off a printed piece from bed with pliers ;)even if I understand that when you print something that doesn't need to respect strictly your design dimension, is a fast way to detach it.....
(and you should at least mention material; printer settings, or that are optional so this forum doesn't serve at nothing?)
Other story is about how smooth is your print... showing so small area where the print looks good but not smooth as you could have printing on glass or something that reproduce the same roughness...
that's how it could looks on kapton (that isn't at all expensive):
http://i63.tinypic.com/nmeuqb.jpg
http://i66.tinypic.com/jptr4p.jpg
and a macro of the ugliest part
http://i65.tinypic.com/146uf5.jpg
.... it's the back surface, so you don't care about how ugly it will be ;)I know, but for a comparison you should at least make a photo where you show the entire printed piece..
https://vimeo.com/https://i.ytimg.com/vi/QEbcI0ik7hA/default.jpg
don't you?
oh, I re-write again for the fast readers... that glue stick and kapton are good as well to make ABS stuck to your print bed ...
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I have manufactured commercial products for the sport of fencing for two years on a couple of RepRap printers.
I print in ABS almost exclusively, and have made hundreds of my product on my UM2. The product is 2" tall, an inch wide, and has a 3/4" circular base and 45-degree overhangs. I do not use a raft or any other adhesion tricks that require post-print processing.
I use Elmer's Glue Stick. One stick lasts me about 6 months for $1.50. Both ABS and PLA stick to it perfectly and release when cooled. I often print the same gcode in the same spot a dozen or more times without re-applying the glue, and I rarely have prints come loose.
When I clean and re-apply the glue I don't need to re-level the build plate, because I don't let the glue build up.
If I want a smooth bottom on the prints, I apply one thin layer of glue and then rinse it slightly with water and allow it to dry.
I've used Kapton and hair sprays. Neither works as well. The Kapton is costly and non-recyclable, and the hairspray makes a mess of the surrounding area and gives mediocre adhesion.
Since ieol2015 plainly doesn't know what he is talking about, there is no reason to waste a minute making a video to "prove" to him that glue stick works. He is welcome to continue wasting time and money with Kapton - not my problem.
You have not to proof anything to anyone, even less me... but if you like to share something I think you should, at least , make those info accessible for all, don't you? Or this forum is mere a place to show other how good are you at 3D print without making any advantage on reading it?
Cheers
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Perhaprs it's only my "bad" thought but...seems that someone have some particular interest on pushing glue-stick vs. kapton
1) Kapton and glue-stick are both good for ABS... BUT:
2) Kapton can manage multiple print; if you pay particular attention almost """"infinite"""" as Kapton doesn't change shape, don't make any dirty, don't attach to your print head, don't attach to your printed object
3) you have not to make any realign of your bed after each print
4) you have not to clean your bed after each print!!
5) it is not as expensive as you tought! AMAZON
6) you don't waste your time cleaning your bed (some repeated I know
) and realign it!! 7) the printed surface in contact with Kapton is as smooth as glass !
Now glue-stick:
1) works fine with bot ABS and PLA... BUT:
2) can manage ONE print.. two or three if you are REALLY LUCKY
3) it's not uniform and your printed surface is UGLY!!
4) you have to clean it out and the best way is to remove your bed glass and rinse under warm water
5) every time you clean it and re-apply you MUST realign your print-bed
Glue-stick it's cheap Vs Kapton?? NO WAY
Both method let you print ABS ... choose what you like more
P.S.: for me Kapton Rules
I dont have any agenda regarding methods of adhesion I only stated the ones I have up to now that I managed to get to work.
If I can get kapton to work for me then I will use it.
The best methods are the ones easiest for me to use and currently it is glue sticks but if I need to use another method then I will I dont care what method I end up using as long as I get successful prints.
When my second glass plate arrives I will revisit the Kapton route and follow the advice given...........if it fails to work for me then I will continue with the gluestick but if it works I am happy to stay with the tape.
PS I dont know why you have a bad thought and think someone has a particular interest in pushing glue sticks...........
haha!
my thought was just a joke on reading how many ones use glue stick, or spray the bed plate with so much disparate material to desperately find the holy grail of 3D printing :D and never mention that a rather clean method exist and that doesn't need so much work, as someone assert (without proving it, indeed), ... but hey! anyone can mess with what ever want, isn't it? 
anyway this is a forum that should discuss seriously the problems... but till now, I haven't met a post sticked on top where different method are showed and proven, with advantage and disadvantage... if you try to search the forum you cannot find nothing as every attempt to search, end with showing all the post... and it's quite annoying lurking on all the post to find soething that , in the end, is not usefull at all... :(
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@ieol2015...... you must be using the wrong type of glue stick or something as i disagree with all of your comments when it comes to glue sticks???
With PLA I use a certain brand of glue stick and it lasts many multiple prints, I.e. around 10 to 20 before it needs to be added or re-applied, and I NEVER re-align my print base and always get perfect bottoms on the prints.
Just because you take the glass plate off, doesn't mean you need to realign everything! thats madness. I take of the plate everytime but never re-align!
I've only used that Klapton tape once, but feel that the only people who are using it are simply using it as they have not mastered printing with glue stick. or lack a heated bed and are forced into using it for something, as it most definitely not quicker to apply and re-apply than glue, and wont give any better results than well applied glue either and the bottom is as flat as the glass plate with NO BUMPS! and the glue stick is cheap as dirt and lasts almost all year.
There are bumpy glue sticks and there are smooth glue sticks. Obviously use the smooth one. Problem solved. No need for tape ever, unless you are going down the ABS route that is, but i don't so with PLA you just dont need it.
?? Are you kidding right?
Ok... first:
1) If you have used Kapton once how can you have the knowledge to comment??
2) Fact no words! show me something, photos videos... or you are just writing to spend your time and mine (as you have replied to me....)...
3) I never wrote glue stick gave you BUMPS on the print I write it's UGLY (there is difference, isn't it??)
4) The glass bed plate isn't on a rock mounting support and when you take it off to clean it you HAVE to realign no excuse... or your alignment is 1 or 2 mm (millimeters), so in this case you don't have to realign it ....
(mine is about 20 micron so if you take it off you HAVE to realign it...)5) the glue stick I use is the one that comes with the Ultimaker 2
6) I doubt you can do more than 2 print on the same base of glue stick because it means that the PLA doesn't stick to the glue you put on glass plate to make PLA sticking to it!!!!
So please show me a video where you print something , remove it and print again on the same place and again and again as you write.
and last but not least :)I wrote that glue stick is good as Kapton (but for me , with some disadvantage for the glue stick) so please, read it again because your statement about my comment made me thinking that you are a resellers of glue stick
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Perhaprs it's only my "bad" thought but...seems that someone have some particular interest on pushing glue-stick vs. kapton
1) Kapton and glue-stick are both good for ABS... BUT:
2) Kapton can manage multiple print; if you pay particular attention almost """"infinite"""" as Kapton doesn't change shape, don't make any dirty, don't attach to your print head, don't attach to your printed object
3) you have not to make any realign of your bed after each print
4) you have not to clean your bed after each print!!
5) it is not as expensive as you tought! AMAZON
6) you don't waste your time cleaning your bed (some repeated I know
) and realign it!! 7) the printed surface in contact with Kapton is as smooth as glass !
Now glue-stick:
1) works fine with bot ABS and PLA... BUT:
2) can manage ONE print.. two or three if you are REALLY LUCKY
3) it's not uniform and your printed surface is UGLY!!
4) you have to clean it out and the best way is to remove your bed glass and rinse under warm water
5) every time you clean it and re-apply you MUST realign your print-bed
Glue-stick it's cheap Vs Kapton?? NO WAY
Both method let you print ABS ... choose what you like more
P.S.: for me Kapton Rules
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Just a bit of an update
I have obtained Acetone Hairspray Kapton tape and Cube stick.
I have tried 3 times the kapton and hairspray without success the hairspary just lifted of the kapton ...............maybe wrong brand of hairspray just got cheap strong hold.
I tried the Cubestick and it worked first time
Acetone ..............maybe later if the cubestick runs out
Thanks all for your input
Hi
With the kapton tape you cannot have failed
if you got any problem is due to the fact that you must clean the kapton with a paper towel wetted with acetone after you stuck it (the kapton...) on the glass bed And it is not an optional it is a must to clean the surface before print on it, to remove any trace of grease ..
Your problem will be after the print .... because on kapton tape, ABS get stuck as hell !
Another way can be use a sheet of kapton but it is nice for big print but not for small ones :(
With big print it's almost impossible to remove them from the print bed if you use kapton tape but with a sheet like in the photo above you can just remove the print with the kapton attached to it and peel it away as easy as turn a page of a book
ah! Kapton must be used alone.... and well cleaned (read degreased) with acetone
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I still think that Kapton is still the better way to print with ABS
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tdAdWmQpd8U
But I never find it mentioned on answer... it's quite odd...
Seems you all like to clean the bed glass often and often after every print... getting rid of that sticking glue on it... anyway everyone have his own procedure to feel happy
and this is some cheap ABS bought from RS
Printed at 240°C
Bed Temp 52°C
Speed 60mm/sec
Layer height .15mm
Brim 26
and finished
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Wish to know if the PTFE coupler is 15% Glass Filled or 25% Glass Filled? And I like to know if the retraction made by filament at the end of the print should be avoided as IMO is the problem of PTFE deformation.
I wrote my last sentence because after I do a "Move Material" from menu at the end of every print I have no more problems of filament stuck or under extrusion problem at the beginning of the next print
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Hi,
well mine last just 50Hrs (fifty) before get deformed!! But I preferred to modify it rather than replacing it... I thought that the problem of the coupler depend on the excessive pressure the spring put on it and that at the end of the print the filament get retired back too much, letting the hot plastics get in contact with the PTFE coupler!!
BUT.. you can avoid premature end of your coupler if as the print finish you enter in the Maintenance Menu-->Advanced-->Move Filament and move the filament back in the hot end rotating the knob ...made some kind of "priming" of your print head letting the filament come out for about 30-40 cm then make 1 (one) counter clockwise of the knob waiting the temp reach about 150°C (for ABS) or 90 for PLA and pull away the filament that came out.
This way you clean the small 0,4mm nozzle and inside the hod end your hot filament don't reach the PTFE coupler
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Yea I read about T-Glase for over a year and never knew it was PETG.
I am trying this one of RS-COMPONENTS right now
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Thank you for your answer IRobertI
Well, no issues with the other 3 step motor (X;Y;Z) just the feeder motor have some issues sometimes ...
By the way, as you can see in the end of the video I was printing a test and the issue come out well over the brim level... it was finishing printing at 3mm cube/sec...
I thought that the nozzle is not hot as it should be... even if the temperature was set at 215°C
My thought about limiting current on step motor is that it reflect on the device capability to maintain its force torque... but it's true that it is a way to limit grinding (but I don't think is a nice way to do it
)About the PTFE rod... I will be pleased to sell it to you
or anyone else who like the tool There is someone in the forum that hacked the hardware to get rid of the current limitation?
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What you call "a safety feature" I call an issue :)I thought it is just point of view... but a stepper motor that loss step for over charge is not a feature....
Questions: I found that by default the current driving the stepper are all at 1300mA except the one of the feeder that was at 1250, a little difference but why?
And another question is why this limit to 1300mA when the stepper are rated up to 1680mA?
p.s.: I think that Atomic pull is overestimated... I use a PTFE rod like this
to clean the hot end, so you can leave it clean without addition of other material inside the hot end... -
Hi,
it's a problems that comes out when the machine is still "cold" usually while "brimming" the step motor loss step making a, quite loud, "TOC" noise .
I've filmed it but for some reason audio get stripped off!!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdNbDgeL2W0
As you can see the feeder knurled wheel suddenly make almost half round backwards ! I've raised the current of the motor from 1250 mA to 1300 mA (the max current set possible) but nothing have changed.
Any suggestions?
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Finally someone who uses a ptfe to clean the nozzle. Said so many times...
Yes! teflon, for me, was the only way to clean the clogged nozzle, because every try I made to clean it with "the atomic method" just left it more clogged! So after two try I've thought that the only way was push away the excess of abs with something that not stick with it and not fuse while pushing it out! PTFE was the only choice
Forgot to tell that with a PTFE rod it's damn faster ! You have just to heat the print head at 260°C (in the worst case), retire the filament the amount you need to take off the bowden tube from the print head and push the PTFE rod down the way to the nozzle
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4) always for ABS print, try to flip over the right fan
Fascinating! Why not flip both fans? Do you do 100% fan? 30% fan? This is interesting idea. Flipping the fan I imagine will reduce it's cooling power by maybe 90%? That's a good thing for ABS as too much fan causes bad layer adhesion.
Tell me more about this!
Because you could have this problem http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#pillowing
Fan was on default settings 50% - Print head Temp 240°C (but even 250°C works) bed temp 80 °C - Brim is on.. .as you can see from images
Oh! I forgot to tell that I've tried to take away the right side fan but,... it is connected in series with the left one! so, the fast way to rip off of the fan was flip it over!
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4) always for ABS print, try to flip over the right fan
I did not hear that one before, can you explain the benefits of this (compared to just lower the amount of fan%)
When printing square object, I've noticed that the right side was with problems (delamination and deformation). While I was watching the print head moving above the piece, I've noticed that the right side was always under a fan blow! So while the print head was on it doing its work, the left fan was blowing on the printing area and when the print head was on the other side, the right fan goes to the area previously deposited freezing it down again! But this was not happening on the Left side of the piece, where only the left fan was blowing on it just the time the print head was doing its work.
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Hi everyone! Seems that "extruder issues" are many... so, I wish to share my experience:
1) before inserting the filament check the feeder, on mine there was a problem about the ball bearing that stuck due to lack of space and issue on pivot point of the lever that hold the ball bearing
2) change the original spool-holder with this one https://www.youmagine.com/designs/low-friction-um2-spoolholder
3) if you print with ABS I thought that the best way to clean the hot end is with a PTFE rod that fits inside the hole so you can clean inside without inserting other material that could even worsen the problem ... I made this for that dirty work :
4) always for ABS print, try to flip over the right fan http://imageshack.com/a/img907/6607/5nRvUV.jpg
use some kapton and if you still have adhesion problems clean the kapton with a paper towel wet with acetone.. it will become a little tricky to take off your print when finished ... but it will not unstuck from the bed while printing.....
Have a good print day
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Getting ABS to stay on the print table without Acetone
in Improve your 3D prints
Posted · Edited by Guest
hi, have you tried to use the search engine of the forum?? Try it! for every query you have 10 thousands result for your search!!
So don't tell me that I don't bother trying your technique because it is literally buried under 10 thousands of others post....
And I NEVER write to you or someone else that kapton have benefit with PLA!! The post is about ABS printing!
-->>POST TITLE:
Getting ABS to stay on the print table without Acetone