cashlo
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Posts posted by cashlo
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Thanks, I will try it!
I am just measuring between the 2 pins on the plug (and I might have shorted them when I am poking around), I think that should read 24v?
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Thanks for the reply! The voltage seems to be at 5v, I tried the old wiring and it still doesn't work so I suppose the issue is with the board
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I have a Ultimaker 2 with the + upgrade working fine for a few years.
Few weeks ago the heater block stopped working, turns out the wire is broken so I took the old heater and replaced it, and now the fans won't turn.
I tried plugging the old fans and they are also not turning.
Could I have fry some transistor when I replace the heater?
Here's the output of the FAN PWN when I was turning the fan speed:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/hKb6yu44EPNs5Vja7
(This is with nothing plugged in)
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Hey, you made the firmware I am running! :D
I have finished the script, and it does what I wanted:
The T-rex looks a bit sad but I should be able to fix it by tuning the retraction setting.
The M600 command is ignored, but the M0 works just fine, just needed to modify the other pausing script a bit.
And it turns out finding the top layer is not so straightforward, I tried using the ";LAYER_COUNT" value-1 but that gives a bigger number sometimes, using "data[-1]" just give me M107 and the things after. I end up going backward in the data and just use the first layer I found.
If anyone want to try it here's the script:
https://github.com/cashlo/Cura-post-processing-scripts/blob/master/PauseAtTopAndBottom.py
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I am inspired by this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KV2AjyowXX4 to try printing with multiple color on my single extruder U2+,
My idea is to use a different material for the top/bottom skin, by swapping the material before and after printing the skin.
I want to make a post-processing script to add a "M600 - Filament Change" to the gcode.
Now my question is is there a script that already does that? I am aware of the "Filament Change" script but it only does z level now.
Also, is there a option to only change number of walls for top/bottom?
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My Taz is highly modded. Octopi server and changed out all the linear rods to use linear v groove rails. I've been eyeing the the UM2 simply because it looks like there's minimal cleanup at best from all the Youtube videos I've seen. While the Taz has been great to me, it seems like the UM would excel in precision. As far as what I print, pretty much anything. I primarily use PLA or PETG. Just as an example, I drew and printed a base for my baby monitor so that it can clip onto the edge of the crib. Other stuff, include printer mods, random cool things I find on thingiverse such as the nasa wrench etc. Not doing anything super serious and totally just for fun.
With all that said, I guess what I'm expecting with the UM is that I can achieve a cleaner, minimal to no post print processing, and an overall better looking print with no oozing what so ever (like all the YT videos I drool over). I think it would be a worthwhile purchase if you guys think that the UM2+ would complement the Taz 5 in the area of precision and quality.
to me this sounds more like a software issue, maybe the Taz just need some more fine tuning or some small upgrade?
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I have oiled it, it doesn't seems to help much.
But I found that the annoying high pitch noise is coming from the retraction, and turning it off makes it much better.
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The noise seems to be mostly from the motors, especially when it's doing a fast movement or when the z-level is changing. I tried adding some oil to the axis, doesn't seem to help.
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Hello,
I recently got a second hand U2, and I have been printing nicely for a while now. It is not very quiet, but I remember seeing a U2 printing very quietly in an event, so it makes me wonder if this is caused by the age of the motor? (The last owner use it pretty heavily) Or does different U2 have different noise level? Maybe it's the settings I have?
Please share if you have some tips for a quiet night printing.
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@cashio , have you been able to resolve the issue?
Just wanted to see if our suggested helped you
Thanks for the suggestions!
I cut off a bit of the bowden tube, increased the space between the PTFE coupler and hot end coupler, and it seems to have stopped poping out! Also the horizontal lines seems to be better now, I guess the bigger gap makes the hot end push harder into the holder and make it more secure?
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It could be that the coupler that holds the Bowden tube in place isn't working properly. It should have metal "teeth" that bite into the Bowden tube and hold it in place.
If you remove the clamp and slide the Bowden tube out, can you see grooves? (Or take a photo)?
I had this happen with my Ultimaker Original a year after owning it. It's a pretty easy fix once you have the correct parts.
Here it is, it's kinda hard to get a clear view, so you think I need to replace it?
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Could you take a picture of the top of your printhead?
There should be a white tightner and a blue clip holding it in place.
If any of those are missing or not functioning well that could cause the bowden tube to pop out. Usually when a bowden tube is not secured it will eliminate retraction.
I also see that the space between the PTFE coupler and hot end coupler is to small. It should be over 1mm.
This could be an interesting blog for you to read.
And we have a part 2.
Thanks for the reply, I actually had the same problem before with the blue clip, so I replaced it with a printed one, could it be this one is also too short? Are there a recommended one?
I have read those blog post, while they are very helpful, I couldn't find any information related to those horizontal lines.
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Hello,
I recently get a second hand Ultimaker 2, after printing fine for a few month, the bowden tube starts poping out at random times in print:
And when it doesn't pop out, there are some uneven horizontal lines:
Any suggestions what could be wrong?
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Hello,
I just got a Ultimaker 2 and I have been testing with Innofill3D PLA. The prints comes out pretty good except for the underside which have some bad overhang:
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/prints/1570-dolphin-with-meshmixer-support
I am wondering if there's something I miss besides for lower tempature(210C now), and longer cooling time(5s now)?
Ultimaker 2+ twin side fan not turning
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
I did the test with the LED, and it acts a bit weird and is a lot dimmer than normal, which is in line with the 5v measurement.
I ordered a bunch of BC817 and they just arrived, and after making a bit of a mess on the board and some burnt flux later, I desoldered the transistor and soldered the new transistor.
Did the LED test again, and it works! The light would turn off at 10%, which I guess is in the software, but the brightness is normal.
Then I go back the check the wiring of the 2 fans, the socket of the fan plug each only have one wire connected. When I first started troubleshooting I didn't pay too much attention to this, but now that I know the 2 fans are supposed to be in series, but they are not connected.
There's a whole wire missing! How could this ever work?!
Upon closer inspection, the 2 sockets were directly soldered together. I must have broken it when I replace the heater wire, and fried the transistor when I poke around with the scope. I soldered them back together and secured them together with some tapes so this doesn't happen again.
If I paid more attention to the sockets, I would have saved a lot of trouble. I hope this mistake will help someone troubleshoot in the future.