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sergiucip

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Posts posted by sergiucip

    High temperature print head-remove 260 degree lock

    in Third party products & modifications

    Posted · Edited by Guest

    Hello,

    I need support from you guys, please!

    I need to figure out how to increase printhead temp above to 260 centigrade. I know this limit is for safety reasons.

    The max temp i need is 280 degree for printhead and 120 degree for heated bed.

    I already have reinforced PTFE coupler (high grade material reinforced with fiber glass, wich is suposed to suport 280 degree without problem), and a silicone 120 watt 220 Volt heated bed with solid state relay.

    in configuration.h if i modify temp values nothing happen, the temp for nozzle doesn't rise above 260 and for bed 105 degree.

    #define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 275

    #define HEATER_1_MAXTEMP 275

    #define HEATER_2_MAXTEMP 275

    #define BED_MAXTEMP 130

    I know the software measure curent and doesn't allow the nozzle heat above 260 degree ,same algaritm for bed.

    Please help me, now i use ultimaker 2 jar jar wich let me to print in 265 degree for printhead and 115 for bed.

    I need 280 degree for head and 120 degree for heated bed

    Thank You for your support!

    UM2 Analog port- help

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    Hello,

    I need help to connect a sensor to analog port on Ultimaker 2 board.I want to connect a hieght sensor for autocalibration .

    My sensor have the following pins to connect to he motherboard (VCC 5v, GND and 3.3 Volt Output) same as analog port on the UM2 motherboard.

    I need some info about where to look for pins.

    Thank You!

    UM2 Z-axis modification

    in Third party products & modifications

    Posted · Edited by Guest

    Hello,

    I need some help on a issue regarding z-axis, my original UM 2 z-axis motor not working properly anymore.

    I have an original UMO motor+ z-axis lead screw and i want to use as a replacement .

    And the question is , do i have to modify the firmware for this to work? and where.

    If anybody made a modification about this, i apreciated some help. Original UM2 z lead screw is 10 mm with 4 start screw (i believe), and the UMO has 12 mm  1 or 2 start lead screw  and i dont know anything about the pitch or so.

    Below picture with modification i need, i measure earlyer the UMO 12 mm Lead screw travel 3 mm per revolution instead of UM2 type lead screw wich travel 8 mm per revolution.

    Thank You

    Sergiu

    5a33177d4a74a_WP_20160201_15_14_30_Raw_LI1.thumb.jpg.e2cae5e665a959a9335ce337b6105bed.jpg

    5a33177d4a74a_WP_20160201_15_14_30_Raw_LI1.thumb.jpg.e2cae5e665a959a9335ce337b6105bed.jpg

    Printing PEEK with UM2; getting to 330 degrees celsius then...

    in UltiMaker Cura

    Posted

    Yes but there is a ceramic PT100 sensor wich is rated 600 degree and is fit pefectly to the heater block. The ad597 is not that stable like pt 100.By the way the ceramic pt100 is like 5 EUR and work like charm,

    Sergiu

     

     

    Hey ,

    I believe the PT100 sensor for heater is soldered inside capsule, so the melting temp for soldering is for a regular solder 190 Degree,

    I made may own PT100 sensor wich have the pins crimped instead of soldering.You may try that, or contact me if you do not have the knowledge to do this and i show you.

    Sergiu

     

     

    I have myself tried printing PEEK using an e3d v6 on a prusa i3. I've found that pt100 sensors will not work at the temperatures you need, and a k type thermocouple is much better. My PT100 sensors kept breaking at 350-400C. What bed temperatures have you been using? I've found that the hotter the better, but can't get past about 150. I'm printing on Kapton tape as it's the only thing i've found that doesn't break down at high temperatures.

     

    Hi Hregfroop;

    I too am having trouble with the PT100s now; have gone through three or four of them at this stage; at temperatures above 300 they seem to fail quickly. I am going to try to replace them with another type; I don't suppose you have any knowledge on what would plug directly into the UM2 board and allow higher temperature readings?

    All the best,

    Mike

     

     

    Hi Sergiu;

    Thanks for the reply;

    I managed to install a k type thermocouple so can now measure the higher temperatures :)

    But I ordered some thermistor parts rated for high temps, and will try to incorporate them into the UM2 just to see if they work! Crimping seems the way to go, yes, thanks :)

    All the best,

    Mike

     

    Printing PEEK with UM2; getting to 330 degrees celsius then...

    in UltiMaker Cura

    Posted · Edited by Guest

    Hey ,

    I believe the PT100 sensor for heater is soldered inside capsule, so the melting temp for soldering is for a regular solder 190 Degree,

    I made may own PT100 sensor wich have the pins crimped instead of soldering.You may try that, or contact me if you do not have the knowledge to do this and i show you.

    Sergiu

     

     

    I have myself tried printing PEEK using an e3d v6 on a prusa i3. I've found that pt100 sensors will not work at the temperatures you need, and a k type thermocouple is much better. My PT100 sensors kept breaking at 350-400C. What bed temperatures have you been using? I've found that the hotter the better, but can't get past about 150. I'm printing on Kapton tape as it's the only thing i've found that doesn't break down at high temperatures.

     

    Hi Hregfroop;

    I too am having trouble with the PT100s now; have gone through three or four of them at this stage; at temperatures above 300 they seem to fail quickly. I am going to try to replace them with another type; I don't suppose you have any knowledge on what would plug directly into the UM2 board and allow higher temperature readings?

    All the best,

    Mike

     

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