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  1. Well I can print from USB... so maybe its the wires from the LCD like others have experienced... That is WEIRD. Also the Bondtech comes with the steps figured out. #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80.0,80.0,200,492.45} // default steps per unit for ultimaker2 492.45 is what they say to use Weird... SO I use the commands they include M92 E492.45 M500 and it worked. That really disturbs me. That said you mentioned a factory reset.. I didn't do a factory reset. Was I supposed to? That would maybe explain the extruder behavior. Side note m
  2. Okay now I am getting the tried to print outside of print area bug... Tried blowing out the SD card reader. The display cables look in place. Only differences are. 1) I can't remember wha the graphine weighted block was wrapping. When adjusting the Z axis it is like 20mm lower than expected. I changed config.h according to the bondtech and the e3d specs... See below. In Simplified 3d I added the change for undervolting the extruder... The Only hints I have is the Z axis. On the print screen, it rests Z at 301.5mm, when it is homed ready to print. I
  3. Hmm well today it seems to be compiling. Something to be said about not working till 3 am on software. You're code is rarely good after 2! Though I mean I don't think I changed anything.. Maybe a reboot was enough. By working, I mean the script is out putting the below. I have a Marlin.Hex but its missing a very specifically named file at the end. Though given that I know its a make file building several flavors I do not think I care. Pending that I am able to flash my printer here momentarily I will open a PR with an updated readme for Mac instructions. At least a start for you
  4. Okay some progress... I was really fighting the system. The main root of the fight tonight is the differences between a Windows Installation and a Mac one. I spent most of the day trying to get v23 libraries to work, not understanding that they were really for lack of a better term, the SDK for arduino, and that I was trying to mix v185 and v23 source code. I spent most of the night rooting though the make file trying to figure out where it was trying to map things to and from and understanding it's structure. I downloaded the git version of Arduino (link). Looking though its file structu
  5. Hey Okay I'll try that out. Thanks! I was following what was in the github readme on https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin Which I was wondering how it was going to output the correct type given the instructions were clearly a mega 2560 instruction. I was suing the ancient version 23 of the arduino software, per the readme. Note I do have a Mac as well as a PC, so I think I can do this with less hoops.
  6. I'm having a terrible time compiling this firmware. For a sanity check I compiled the https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin with no issues. It keeps complaining about the clearWriteError not being found. Which is defined in C:\Users\dddd\Downloads\Ultimaker2Marlin-17.10\Ultimaker2Marlin-17.10\ArduinoAddons\Arduino_1.x.x\sanguino\cores\arduino I followed the directions, place the whole sanguino directory in the arduino/hardware folder. I've tried both 1.00 and 0.xx. I've tried copying the cores/arduino into arduino/hardware/arduino. I've been trying to fix this fo
  7. Okay, I am getting pretty frustrated trying to 3d print with ninjaflex on the UM2 extended. I'm very experienced with 3d printing, with 5 years building these machines, starting with Reprap. The recommended temp of 230 seems pretty nuts, as it will come out as liquid. I got it printing at 200, sides looks okay, but the internals are just whispy webs. Mostly looks like I dripped a wax candle inside. I'm just looking for a settings list for S3d that say Use this! And at-least get me 90% of the way there. If I have to tinker the settings over weeks I might as well use my Mendelmax instead. Th
  8. Hey everyone. So I upgraded to a 1.0 nozzle. Now I am getting temp errors as I try to print the extra volume. That annoying error where it turns off the heaters, movement and wont respond. I've been at this a long time, I know at the temp I have it at (230 for PLA) the fluctuations in temp wont matter. Been doing speed printing for ages. I just need this $$$$ feature to turn off. Is there a way to turn it off? Now assuming it's not. Anyone else have a 1.0 and how much did you have to slow it down? Trying to print at 0.8 LH. Going to cut it down to 0.5 for now, till I have time to tinker..
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