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tinkergnome last won the day on October 13

tinkergnome had the most liked content!

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About tinkergnome

  • Birthday 01/01/2015

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    Ultimaker 2

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  1. tinkergnome

    Auto Bed Leveling while Nozzle & Bed Heats Up

    I think so...🙂 It looks like a start script for Simplify3D, not for Cura? Have you inspected the generated gcode? The variable names are different for Cura and curly brackets are used: ; for example: ; M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; M109 T0 S{material_standby_temperature, 0} ; M104 T0 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0, 0} ; AFAIK all variable names that are defined in "fdmprinter.def.json" can be used.
  2. tinkergnome

    More information during print

    Hi Link, the Marlin PID autotune never worked well for me. But if you want to try it - i would use a target temperature that is close to the usual printing temperatures. Here are some links with the default values from Ultimaker: Heated buildplate: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin/blob/master/Marlin/Configuration.h#L250 Nozzle heater UM2 (25W): https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin/blob/master/Marlin/Configuration.h#L201 Nozzle heater UM2+ (35W): https://github.com/Ultimaker/UM2.1-Firmware/blob/UM2.1_JarJar/Marlin/Configuration.h#L206 "Heater timeout" switches the nozzle heater off, if the printer is inactive (not printing or paused and no user interaction). This was actually a feature request from a makerspace, where sometimes users startet the material change wizard or heated up the printer and then went away - and the printers were "cooking" the material for hours or over night... It just adds some more security.
  3. tinkergnome

    Cura feature request and help

    You can try a draft shield with limited height (it's in the "Experimental" section). If you set the x/y distance to the same value as the skirt distance, it should come close to what you want.
  4. tinkergnome

    Skulpt Thibra3D

    Well, the manufacturer shows it on the product page in red and provides a technical data sheet that is offered in the download section... I would say: it's not that hard to find... (1.26g/cc - determined according to ISO 1183) Edit: ok, it's probably not the manufacturer, but one of the first results on google... 🙂 Thibra3D datasheet: http://www.thibra3d.com/media/wysiwyg/producten/datasheet_thibra3D.pdf
  5. tinkergnome

    UM2GO Nozzle

    And in addition: keep in mind that not only the nozzle will wear out but also the transportation wheel of the feeder (this doesn't take long if you use e.g. carbon filled filament). It depends on your use case, but (perhaps) consider a change to Bondtech feeder as well.
  6. Great! I think the profile does not contain something fancy. For reference: 0.4 nGen.fff.zip
  7. yeah - i guess, I'm still not sure, what your "bending goal" is...? The wider part is much shorter too and therefore stiffer and it's harder to bend of course. I needed some tools this time... I'm sure, i can break it with a bit more force, or if i clamp it down on a smaller support area, but until now it's still in one piece... 🙂 I think, if you need even more flexibility than this you should try PP, nGen flex or TPU
  8. tinkergnome

    UM2+ firmware download

    The firmware files for UM2+ and older Ultimaker printers are included in the Cura installer, there's no separate download page AFAIK. If you have Cura installed, take a look at the installation folder ...../resources/firmware. At least that's the case for the Windows version, i don't know if it is the same location in the AppImage? The firmware file for UM2+ is called "MarlinUltimaker2plus.hex" If Cura is not installed, you can download the Windows setup file for Cura, open it with an unzip-tool and extract only the file(s) that you need.
  9. Here it comes, part printed on UM2+, bend and twisted. It loose its shape a bit after this torture, but doesn't break and can be easily bend back to the right shape. Pictures were taken in the shown order:
  10. tinkergnome

    Ultimaker 2 Extended

    Vermutlich ist in Cura immer noch der gleiche (alte) Drucker ausgewählt, oder Du hast die neue Firmware noch nicht installiert? Falls das so ist: Du hast jetzt das "plus" - Modell und der Feeder hat eine (Getriebe-) Untersetzung. Dafür muss der Motor anders herum drehen. Aus diesem Grund haben die "plus" -Modelle ihre eigene Firmware-Version. Die wird aber nur installiert, wenn in Cura auch das richtige Modell ausgewählt ist. Im Text ist das besser erklärt als im Video... Aber beachte: das Firmware-Update führt in diesem Fall zu einem impliziten "Factory Reset". Wenn Du eigene Material-Profile im Drucker angelegt hast, solltest Du sie vorher auf der sd-Karte sichern. Alle anderen Einstellungen kann man (bei Bedarf) leider nur aufschreiben und danach wieder neu einstellen. Viel Erfolg - und nicht den Aufkleber vergessen! 🙂
  11. If it helps, i can try it during the weekend. Send me a PM if you can share the model and/or the factory file. And i guess i need a more detailed "folding instruction"...? 🙂 ...but nGen is a kind of PETG too (AFAIK) - at least it's based on PETG? Wouldn't this give the same problems? Is it so super humid at your place that you have such concerns?
  12. Well, nGen is not as rigid as PLA, but far less brittle. It's is a good choice for functional parts (where impact strength counts), but perhaps not if you need high rigidity. It's a bit weird that your nGen parts break so easily. I noticed exactly the opposite... Perhaps still too much fan? Usually it prints well without fan or with very low fan settings. Have you tried other PETG? Like Ultimaker CPE? That's quite strong... My experience with HT is, that it shrinks more and has a high tendency to warp - very difficult to get it adhere to the build plate - especially for parts with a big base area. It works probably better in an enclosed printer, preferable with a heated chamber.
  13. There may be some hints in this thread:
  14. tinkergnome

    More information during print

    Hi Link, the retraction settings per material are a (relatively) new feature of the UM2+ firmware. The Tinker-Firmware doesn't include this (yet?). Most of the "tinkerers" do not use the material settings on the printer anymore. It's much more convenient to change the GCode-Flavor in Cura to "Marlin" and configure everything with material profiles directly in Cura.
  15. tinkergnome

    Ultimaker 2+ druckt die letzten Layer in der Luft

    Mein Screenshot war aus Simplify3D, es gibt aber auch online gcode-viewer, mit denen Du die Datei vor dem Drucken nochmal prüfen kannst. Oder speichere einfach die Datei (zusätzlich) auf der Festplatte ab, dann kannst Du ggf. mit der Version von der sd-Karte nochmal vergleichen (sd-Karte vorher ordnungsgemäß "auswerfen" und neu einlegen). Gibt es eigentlich einen speziellen Grund, warum Du alles auf ein Raft druckst? Das ist auf einem UM2 ja eher ungewöhnlich und sollte für diese Objekte in PLA auch gar nicht nötig sein? Übrigens: Laut den Datei-Kommentaren ist Deine Datei mit Cura 3.3.1 generiert, da gibt es inzwischen schon zwei neuere Versionen...

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