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tinkergnome

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  1. TBH: I never found my way in meshmixer. I guess, i simply can't get the concept. Blender is easier to learn... 🙂 Here's a version with closed bottom (and all duplicate vertices merged together): TriconeDrillBit_closed_bottom.zip
  2. I think this statement is a bit too generic. I use Windows 10, an ASUS motherboard and a Ryzen processor as well, graphics card is from NVIDIA.... And Cura runs just fine.
  3. I don't have a solution, but a possible reason: printer definitions for Cura contain a list of excluded materials "Generic HIPS" is the first entry in this list for all Ultimaker printers i don't know the reason 🙂
  4. I see. These material settings are indeed not used at all for "Ultimaker 2" gcode flavor (and form only a "base-line" that is overridden by most of the profiles anyway...) Yep, change it on the printer (i think the menu entry is called "customize" (somewhere in the material settings). Or change the GCode-flavor in Cura to "Marlin". The latter gives you access to the material settings in the print profile and the start-/end-scripts as well. And the settings on the printer are not used anymore. Make your choice! 🙂
  5. "Experimental" -> "Make Overhang Printable" Well... this setting does exactly what you ask for. It changes the geometry and... "makes all overhangs printable" 🙂
  6. It should not be possible to set a temperature in Cura if the GCode-flavor is set to "Ultimaker 2". Which Cura version are you using? If you set it to "Marlin" (the first entry of the list) the hidden settings for temperatures and retractions become visible. BTW: The printer presents a warning if you start such gcode files. That means that the material settings on the printer are not used for this print. Since this is your intention - choose "continue". 240C is indeed the firmware default for PLA and 0.8 and 1mm nozzles. Source: https://github.com/Ultimaker
  7. I think it is not necessary to duplicate the model. Simply select a different extruder for the cutting mesh (in addition to any other setting of you like) and you're done. Like in the following instructions: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360013370140-How-to-adjust-print-settings-of-a-part-of-my-model-in-Ultimaker-Cura
  8. You started this topic in the Cura section, so the first answer is: you can't do this with Cura. Cura is not a CAD program. I think there is no quick and easy way. The solution is to pick a CAD program of your choice and learn how to use it. Some were mentioned before: Blender is designed to work directly with meshes (like stl files), but better suited for visualization than for 3D printing FreeCAD can import and export stl files Fusion360 is free as well (for personal use) There are plenty of free tutorials for all three of them. If you're only inte
  9. 10 retractions (at max.) for 6mm length of filament is way too low... (even for 1.75mm filament). Allow at least 10 retractions per millimeter - that's a more reasonable ratio. Have you tried the suggestion from @GregValiant? And always check the preview for travel moves without retraction. No need to actually print it, if you already see dark blue lines in the preview. Choose "Line Type" and enable "Travels". Travel lines in light blue are with retract, the darker ones are without retract (like in this example):
  10. Ich glaube, das kommt drauf an... 🙂 Wenn getestet werden soll, ob der Motor Schritte verliert, würde ich das G28 überhaupt nicht mehrmals ausführen, sondern einfach auf Z200 und dann wieder hoch (oder so...). Wenn der Endschalter getestet werden soll, ist es wahrscheinlich egal. Es wird ja immer erst ein paar Millimeter vom Endschalter weggefahren und erst danach mit einer definierten Geschwindigkeit drauf (zweimal). Beim zweiten Mal ist Fahrweg und Geschwindigkeit immer identisch. Da sollte es ziemlich egal sein, in welchem Zustand das System vorher war.
  11. Nice model 🙂 i hope the content is not confidential or such... The stl-file contains a composition of 250 separate objects (just in case this was not intended). It seems like every screw and every "tooth" is a separate solid. Which part is to be considered as the "lower part"? The part with the screw thread? What about the three connected "channels"? Do you want to remove those as well? Those kind of modifications can going to be quite hard if you only have the stl file...
  12. Nur mal so als Idee... Wenn "unten" alles in Ordnung ist... bewegt sich vielleicht "oben" irgendetwas (Düse, Heizblock, Druckkopf)? Sind die Führungsstangen vom Druckkopf alle noch fest in den Slider-Blöcken eingerastet und die Lager in Ordnung (Druckkopf kann sich nicht "verdrehen" oder so)? In der Testdatei von @zerspaner_gerd findet keine Filament-Bewegung (Retracts) statt. Nicht das am Ende am Druckkopf oder Olsson-Block etwas lose ist und sich beim Druckstart erstmal irgendwie "zurecht ruckelt"? Der UM2+ hat ja keine Feder mehr über dem Düsenblock
  13. Cura performs verbose logging during startup. The best chance is to look for error messages in the log file, correct the errors - and repeat until success. 🙂 For the location of cura.log: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/#logging-issues
  14. It's only an educated guess, but i assume that it does the same as gcode M220 https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M220.html Essentially a simple factor that is applied to any "F" (feedrate) parameter for all subsequent lines of gcode.
  15. Die Modelle sehen aus, als wären sie eher für SLA-Drucker gedacht. Ein S5 ist dafür nur bedingt geeignet, mit einem Direct-Drive FDM-Drucker könnten solche Modelle etwas besser funktionieren, aber im Prinzip ist das für diese Drucktechnologie eher ein Härtetest. "Tough PLA" ist vermutlich auch nicht die beste Wahl, das "schmiert" zu sehr. Hast Du es mal mit "normalem" PLA versucht? Wenn dann noch ein AA 0.25 Printcore benutzt wird, könnte das schon besser aussehen. Auf jeden Fall langsam (alle Druck-Geschwindigkeiten max. 30 mm/s) und so "kühl" wie möglich dru
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