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Everything posted by DrR1pper

  1. Is it just me or does it look like the UM3 has addressed the zebra stripes issue?
  2. By any chance have you tried the mod/hack yet @lancelet? Also, very nice looking print. What was the print speed?
  3. I'm really sorry about that. Do you think it best that i start another thread? I think my bed springs are tight already. When i first calibrated the bed, i made sure to thoroughly tighten them and apart from re-leveling the bed a few times before i got the height just right at the beginning (with each time making sure that i had to tighten the springs if i needed to change the level rather than loosen then), I've not needed to re-level the bed since. I have tried this before but not with this model. I can do that though, no problem. I'm not so sure if i noticed any significant chan
  4. Has anyone ever experienced this before and know how to fix it please?
  5. Very interesting developement. I modified the tower to double the perimeter length (by increasing the x and y dimensions 41.4%) which should roughly double the print time per layer and used all the same slicer settings as before and the layer banding doubled on that print in frequency. Take a look.... I'm thinking this is caused by inconsistent extrusion rates now caused by some sort of inconsistent feed per revolution of the either the knurled feeder gear, extruder gears or extruder motor itself (or if i should be so lucky, all the above, lol). Thank you @neotko for suggesting bangba
  6. It's printing right now, but i totally forgot, i made two prints from the um2+ remember. One at 40mm/s and the other at 20mm/s and in both examples the banding frequency was the same. Also, just checked on print and looks like no change to banding pattern and frequency. :( I'll do the print with double print area to test if it might be something with the extruder gear, but i noticed the other day that there is 1mm of momentary play when changing filament travel direction. But thanks for the suggestion of possible cause.
  7. Just started the same gcode now with bed temp manually set to 0*C.
  8. hmm. Interesting theory @neotko. So if it's caused by bangbang mode, then the frequency of the banding lines should match the frequency of the oscillations from bangbang mode, right? I can test this theory by simply printing without bed temp, right?
  9. Oh right. Thanks @gr5. So you're saying if a repeating layer banding problem were to be caused by the z screw, it should be at least 3 times the distance between each of the banding lines seen on my prints? Any ideas what might be causing it then? Or is this typical of um2+ prints for whatever reasons? Thanks again!
  10. So with the zebra stripes related post out out of the way, here are my results from my test designed to observe how print temperature and print speed might affect the visibility of layer lines/banding on all my um2+ prints. The test object consisted of a 75mm tall, 30x15mm rectangular tower. On both printers, printed with only 1 bottom layer, two perimeter wall and hollow for the m200 and only a few percentage grid infill for the um2+ prints (as i printed the um2+ prints first only after to remember that the lowest infill setting available for the m200 is equivalent to something like 30% for
  11. Hi everyone, I was going to post this into a new thread (as i know that I have hijacked this thread long enough...sorry about that) but i've decided to posted it here as a portion of it actually relates to this threads topic at hand. If you would prefer that i remove it though and post it someone else, please let me know. So, I performed a really simply print test yesturday to see what the affects of print temperature and print speed have on the visibility of layer lines/layer banding on practically all of my um2+ prints. I also printed one on the m200 so that i had something to compare aga
  12. ah ok, thank you Torgeir. Can i try your version of the gcode you used to print the file on your um2 please?
  13. @cloakfiend Thanks for that. Regarding... But that's just the thing. On the m200, i've not experienced these lines on any of the prints whether small or large, complex geometry or simple geometry and with all their filaments (except for pc-abs that i haven't tried).
  14. After i've ran your gcode though (if you don't mind sharing it with me please), what do you think i should do to try to fix the problem then? Do you think it's the z axis as well or something else? Thank you again. People weren't kidding when they said ultimaker has the most amazing and helpful spirit within the ultimaker community. I have to say, as promising as your pictures are Torgeir, i still have this hint of skepticism that the printer can really print as well as you've shown there despite showing clear evidence that i can. That print just looks too good to be true LOL. But trust me..
  15. Btw, how these prints are oriented in this photo is not how they were printed. The bottom of each print is the right vertical face on each in this photo.
  16. @Torgeir Firstly....Damn it! Sorry. Sent you the wrong one clearly. I made a 0.1mm and 0.15mm layer height version and must have sent you/uploaded the wrong one ofc as it should have been 0.15mm. Secondly....holy crap! Thank you for doing all that work for me! I really really appreciate it and you've given me a ton of hope! May i ask for the gcode that you used for your print for me to test please? Also i used s3d for mine. Was yours printed with the glittery silver/grey pla filament that comes with the ultimaker? Lastly, my one was definitely printed at 0.15mm layer height.
  17. @cloakfiend Hmm. Do you think that could be the cause of my issue?
  18. May i ask how come? I also fact checked my memory of how easily the bed falls down when not powered on and i was wrong. It's not as easy as i stated (i.e. it doesn't just require a bit of momentum for it to then fall all the way to the bottom under gravity) but still has a lot less friction than on the m200. When you push it down, it sometimes has sufficient momentum to continue falling down a little bit more on its own but it then meets more friction and comes to a halt. The amount of friction is not consistent is what i mean. I don't think any of these observations play a role on the issue
  19. Thanks @cloakfiend for the suggestions. I appreciate the effort you put into your response and no need to apologise for it looking like an essay at all. One paragraph, 10 paragraphs...either way, much appreciated that you take the time and effort to help. I have lost count of how many cold pulls i've done (even using transparent nylon to ensure it's clean as a whistle against the black filament residue inside the nozzle). Fyi, this um2+ is pretty new, so any possible fault with the z i think would most likely have been from the get-go. Yeah, i'm really not liking the idea of stripping the z
  20. @gr5 Well, that doesn't sound good in the slightest bit if the case. I did think maybe it was some slack in the x/y belts causing the position to over/undershoot slightly but when looking at opposite printed sides of a cube/cuboid along the x or y axis, you can see the same layer shift/misalignment pattern which suggests to me that it's not this. If it were a random over/undershoot caused by some slack in the x/y, i would not expect the pattern to be identical on both sides. I originally thought this might be the issue because when feeling for the tension in the belts connecting the x/y step
  21. hmm, that does look practically perfect, without a hint of the issue that i am having. Would you mind printing out my test object for me please to double check my own please? Firstly with my original gcode and secondly with your own pla slicing settings but with the same 0.15mm layer height to keep that variable consistent please. It would really help me. g-code: http://www.filedropper.com/drr1pperprintsurfacetestpla'>http://www.filedropper.com/drr1pperprintsurfacetestpla'>http://www.filedropper.com/drr1pperprintsurfacetestpla'>http://www.filedropper.com/drr1pperprintsurfacetestpla
  22. Hey cloakfiend. These were printed at 0.14mm and 0.15mm respectively. UM2+ print was Prima ABS at 220*C. I'll show you the pla print tomorrow/later-today and it was printed in primavalue pla at 195 or 200*C if i recall correctly. The visibility of these "lines" on the pla print are equal to (if not more than on) the abs printed version. Also, are you saying that the visibility of these "lines" on your um2 prints are as good (i.e. as visibly minimal and subtle) as on your m200 prints?
  23. Sorry for any confusion. I was talking about the visibility of print layers on the m200 vs um2+ prints. Here's a more recent test i've performed showing what i'm talking about: Both were printed in abs and even with pla versions of this test object i made, the results seem exactly the same on the um2+. Now by no means am i saying that the m200 print surface is perfect but i do consider it much closer to perfection than the um2+ print. For some reason, the layers tend to misalign to a much greater degree and with greater frequency than it does on the m200 which to me is why the m2
  24. Hi Torgeir, Please correct me if i am wrong but if the problem in the photo's i provided (on the um2+ vs m200) were caused by the missing steps issue that is causing zebra stripes, wouldn't one expect there to be a repeating pattern in the layer misalignment in my um2+ print? It's just that i've tried printing different objects multiple times in a row with the same g-code and cannot see a repeating pattern. I do not see the layer line misalignment's occurring in the same places. For all intensive purposes, they look rather random.
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