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About maxpartenfelder

  • Birthday 07/06/1993

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  • Field of Work
    (Product) design
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  1. Version 1.0


    Programmers will get this joke. I wanted to learn RoR and came up with this one instead. 5V-USB-powerd-glowing-in-the-dark-awesomeness The ruby itself is printed with 0.2mm layer height with "Spiralize outer contour" ON. It is really thin on the walls, but for this build it's perfect since the LED needs to shine through
  2. Version 1.0


    Since I am way too lazy to screw and unscrew the nozzles by hand, I tried to use a normal 7mm ratchet tool. Because the nozzle fell in too deep, I printed a fitting bit for my small electric drill.
  3. Alright... I did my tests. Some of them worked out well, some of the not. But I am really ashamed of myself... When I unpacked my printer, it seems that I was so excited, that I messed up the ABS and the PLA rolls. Ever since I thought I was printing ABS, but acutally printed PLA @ 255°C. This explains a lot. Currently I am testing the printing with ABS at the right temperature and I am overwhelmed by the quality I am getting. It's like I got a compleatly new and better printer. Hahaha Lessons learned: Always check fillament twice. Thanks anyway for the kind support. I might eventually redo the pillar test and post the results here (this time at the right temperature) Until then, this might be some good link to take a look at: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/2872-some-calibration-photographs Cheers, Max
  4. Hi Ronan, thanks for the advice. I have chosen the "scientific way" of doing it and will just try it out in a series of test prints. Therefore, I designed a small test cone set, that I will print 12 times on the same bed in "one at a time" mode. After every test object I will tune the parameters directly on the printer and evaluate the complete print afterwards. Wish me good luck! I will post the results and the evaluation here afterwards. Greets, Max
  5. Hi Sanderv, thanks for the reply! Is there a magic rule of thumb for balancing speed and temperature? Something like "Temperature = x * PrintSpeed" For me on this print it was "255°C = 8,5 * 30mm/s" Any experience for good values with ABS? Just thinking... Is it even linear? Maybe it would be an idea to do some tests with different parameters and do a "StringingIntensityMap" depending on Temperature and Speed On the other hand: Isn't retraction exactly what shoud prevent this from happening? Or is it not additional material from the nozzle but some excess material already on the model that is building up the strings? Cheers!
  6. Hello Ultimaker Forum, this is my first post here, since I just got started using my brand new Ultimaker 2+. Nevertheless, I have been a fan of 3D printing ever since. Yesterday, I started a print job of a puzzle (see rendering attached) and wanted to go really slow to see how good the quality of the printer can be. The model ist just about to finnish as I am writing this (took around 12 hrs to print although it isn't really that big). The parameters of the print were the following: - 0.4mm Nozzle - 0.06mm Layer Height - 22% Infill - 20mm/s Print Speed - 30mm/s Travel Speed - Support with Roof touching Build Plate only - Retraction: 4,5mm @ 25mm/s On the printer I adjusted the printing temperature of my ABS (FormFutura EasyFil) to 255°C, I used the Heated bed just for the first hour or so and turned it off afterwards and in the middle of the print, I corrected the Material Flow fro 107% to 100% because of what I thought to see is overextrusion. Maybe it is also related to the retraction of the filament, because it only appears on respectively one side of each "pillar". Some help finding the problem, some analysis of the model or any kind of advice is appreciated! Thanks in advace, Max
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