Luche
-
Posts
8 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Events
3D Prints
Posts posted by Luche
-
-
Ok. All fixed now. It was the heater probe but not the end at the board. The wires had somehow frayed near the hot end and were shorting out there. Replaced the heater probe and it's back up and running.
Thanks for your help everyone.
-
That's the pt100 heat sensors, the heaters are in the other side. Take out the wood cover to access better.
Yes. I know. I am well aware of what side I photographed.
Let's make this really simple.
Left side, the PT100 side. It has sockets for the 2 pin wire plugs. Right side in the highlighted area, the bed connections which are bare wires that feed into the sockets with no plastic plugs. I can't put the PT100 into the bed without cutting the plug off the wires which is something I will not do.
-
As you can see here, these a wires with premade plugs. They will not physically fit into the sockets for the bed heater. Not without cutting the wires.
-
Yeah the hotend assembly is not right. The barrel can't be inside all the way.
Check this nice image that @gudo made
http://nsm08.casimages.com/img/2016/07/18//16071802291921719914380926.jpg
That's how it should be assembled. But to tighten it right is better to insert the barrel a 0.2mm (a finger nail or less) in, so you have some play to tighten the nozzle while hot.
I'm away for the day but will read and check all your other points later.
To be fair, the nozzle has never really been a problem, prints perfectly fine so long as I don't melt important wires. But I will re-adjust this as you've pointed out when I get it capable of heating up again to see if I get a better result. Thanks for the tip!
-
About the short. I had exactly that with a bad heater cartridge that was just broken inside.
If you have a potentiometer check the heater Ohm. It might show if is having an internal short or cable broken.
Try to change the heater to the bed heater and pt100 on bed temp. And heat the bed (that will heat the hotend heater). If that works, then place the bed and temp sensor on the hotend plugs. This way it might be possible to debug if is the cable or the board (most likely is the heater cable).
If in doubt, ask again. I think @gr5 has much more experience checking the correct ohm and the theorical 'right' numbers you should see on a potentiometer.
I don't have a potentiometer. And the connections for the heater bed are just bare wires so I can't swap the connections over to test as you've suggested.
-
I suppose you do it with the power unplugged?
Also after unplugging it do turn on/off to remove power on the capacitators.
Also what you mean by shorted? Spark? Doesn't work? What you see? Photos?
I set it all up with no power at the wall socket.
Ok. Here is the hot end with probe out.
Here's how I plugged the probe into the block.
Put in the securing screw.
And attach the socket end to Temp 1.
This is a video of what happens when I apply power and tell it to heat.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G7gIidLWvbQ
I have also tried this without the securing screw in just in case it was bridging between the probe and the heater element.
Hope that makes it clear. Same result every time I try it.
-
Hey people,
I just recently melted the wires of my heat probe while cleaning a nozzle. I know, I'm an idiot.
So I ordered a new one, replaced it into the heat block, screwed the holding screw in place, plugged the socket end back into Temp 1 and now when I go to heat my PLA, the safety trips and reboots the printer.
I have checked it over and it keeps shorting out. Have I got a dud probe on my hands or have I forgotten a step in putting it back together?
Thanks in advance for the assistance!
- Luche
Print Head corner screws
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
Hey all. Just a quick question about spare parts. My Original+ (the good old DIY wood one) has had a mishap and I need to replace the metal plate holding the hot end together and the thumb screws that hold it all in place.
I found a good supplier for the plate that is UK based so that's no problem but I am having issues sourcing the 4 long screws. Are these the same as the ones for the UM2? Or any others that are cross compatible because I seem to only find ones for later models and I don't want to buy the wrong ones.
Thanks everyone!