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  1. Thanks Torgeir, (Please excuse my silly questions). To remove the screw, should I get smaller pliers or vice grip pliers? It only sticks out a bit and my normal-size pliers can't grip it. And then I suppose just apply on the locktite blue and tighten back in? It would be easier for me to just use the JB Weld epoxy as I already have it and both my reseller and North American Ultimaker support said that should work just fine to secure it. And they said if it doesn't, they can mail me the necessary replacement parts. But is that common someone would need to change their knurled wheel in the future? It feels like a solid part that will withstand years of retractions. Or is there a good chance I would need to change it in the future? If you think so, then maybe I should go buy the threadlock and special pliers or vice grip to remove the screw?
  2. Update: I spoke with my reseller and North American Ultimaker support who said JB weld epoxy should work to hold it in place. I'm going to do that and think it will to, otherwise they said could mail a new piece out.
  3. Several months ago, I purchased an Ultimaker 2 Go and it has been working just fine. The knurled wheel has stayed on/tight the whole time. I just purchased a second Ultimaker 2 Go about a month ago. Two weeks in the knurled wheel slid off the feeder mid-print. So I had to unscrew the feeder, push the knurled wheel back on so that it was flush, screw the feeder back together and start printing again. It's been about a week and the knurled wheel has slid off again mid-print. How can I make it so it stays on and doesn't slide off? I found in the forum a couple similar posts like this one: Knurled wheel - innie or outie?? In it, there are suggestions for tightening, or adding glue or loctite/threadlock to make it stay on. Another commenter said: "Maybe just replace the grub screw. You could replace it with a black high tensile grub screw that you will be able to tighten it more without damaging the Allen key socket. I would recommend getting the upgrade kit to the new feeder which won't have this problem." I guess the grub screw is the tiny screw that is in the knurled wheel. I have tried to clamp this with my pliers and tighten it but I can't get a grip on it. Should I get smaller pliers? I also tried using a mini hex screwdriver but it doesn't turn. Is this the solution to figure out a way to tighten this grub screw? Or should I use glue/lockite/threadlock to secure the knurled wheel to the feeder shaft. I'm not sure if this would cause it to not spin properly? There's some differences with the serial number sticker and on/off button of my 2nd Ultimaker 2 Go leading me to believe it may be from an older batch where maybe the grub screws (or the whole knurled wheel) was not right or something. Or maybe there is a solution in just tightening or gluing it on? If anyone can suggest how and the right tools to fix this. Thank you in advance.
  4. rwig

    How to fill in tiny holes

    Thx, I always thought the line width had to be the same size as my nozzle (which is 0.4mm). Cura shows wall width and infill width, I will test them out. Seems like maybe increasing infill width might hopefully do it.
  5. My print is made up of many thin walls. But there are small gap at some corners that aren't filled in. Maybe I could try increasing the flow/multiplier on the printer while it's printing to maybe fill in these gaps. Could you suggest something else? Thx [media=32562][/media] [media=32563][/media]
  6. Thank you! It helps a lot for me a noob to here from the more experienced like you! I will just do whatever works best and was just a bit shocked when, after using S3D for so long, and then to try out Cura, to realize that Cura makes better/cleaner travel paths. I am sure it can be fixed in S3D somehow but I'm just going to use Cura for now!
  7. In Simplify3D I see there are many travel paths going all over the place. This makes my printer shake and jerk around more than if the nozzle followed the path of my print. Why doesn't the nozzle just move along the lines of the image rather than jump all over the place? And how to correct this? There were way more paths before but I increased the "Maximum allowed detour factor" in the advanced tab, and this did reduce the number of paths (thanks Neatko!). Anything above 6 or 7 doesn't decrease the number of paths anymore. I've also tried all three "Start point" options including random start points, optimized start points, and custom start points. For custom, I tried 300, 0 0, 300 -999, 0 just to try different ways, but there are still many random paths of the nozzle. Why does the nozzle move like this and how to make it move along the lines of the STL? I just realized in Cura, the nozzle path is almost perfect along the lines of my image. And cuts my time in 3! Why/how to make path same in Simplify3D? (I've asked in SImplify3D forum but they are less active and knowledgable than the UM forum.)
  8. rwig

    How can I get rid of the stringing?

    Thank you very much, it worked! I lowered my temp to 185 C. Lowered speed to 30mm/s (and lowered infill speeds). And I raised that 'Avoid crossing outline for travel movements' setting to 4 (and this has reduced the amount of jumping around the nozzle did from place to place). I just have a follow up question I am curious about. I didn't test going to 185C because I hadn't heard of people going that low. I haven't read many people going that low. Is 185C unusual? Perhaps it is because my print is more detailed it needs this lower temperature. My Flash Forge Creator Pro printer at these new settings still has a couple strings, so do you think it is safe for the extruder to go even lower, like to 180C? (If not , I can try lowering the speed even more or increasing that 'Avoid crossing outline for travel movements' setting to 5 or 6).
  9. I have spent a while trying to figure out with Simplify 3D how to correct an issue with stringing. I did a stringing calibration and got a great print with no strings once I lowered the extruder temp from 220 to 195. But on my print, with the same settings, I'm getting stringing?! Some parts on the first layer also aren't sticking too well and get dragged along by the nozzle. I had this issue when I first got the printer and realized it was because I was using a glue stick, and maybe didn't let it dry long enough I'm not sure, but when I switched to alcohol on the tape, the plastic stuck great. But now, some parts on the first layer don't stick to the tape, instead they cling to the nozzle and get dragged around. The strings only appear on the bottom half layers of the print which may be a clue to what's causing this This happens on both my Ultimaker and Flash Forge - even though Flash Forge has a heated bed - which I put at 60c, and my Ultimaker 2 Go doesn't not have a heated bed. I'e done the atomic method on Ultimaker anyways and comes out with a clean tip). I've also leveled ad re-leveled the beds. I've only been 3d printing for about a month, but have read and tried testing tutorials out including the different online 3d printing troubleshooting guide. And even though got a great calibration design, I can't figure out how to replicate it with my prints. I'm using Ultimaker silver PLA. I've lowered my temper to 195 C. And lowered the speed as well. Raised my retraction distance on the bowden-style Ultimaker to 8mm, and on the direct-drive Flash Forge to 4mm. Raised retraction speed to 100mm/s.
  10. Thank you very much Torgeir! I was a bit negative sounding in my original first post because expected simple plug-and-play, but this post is much more positive! (The feeder is on the left side of the Ultimaker 2 Go printers, which is the one I have and I'm sorry I forgot to mention that.) Steps I took: I first tried pulling the filament but it would not budge, so the feeder had to be removed. The 4th screw was stripped, so the wrench would not loosen it. But I managed to loosen it by applying a dot of JD Weld in the screw, sticking an allen wrench inside and letting the JD Weld set for 24 hours so the allen wrench and screw stuck together. Then after 24 hours, I was able to loosen that 4th stripped screw. To remove the filament I had to pull open the front feeder a bit, and this made the stuck filament slide out with ease. I then managed to follow other people's Youtube videos to screw the feeder back in successfully. Now that the stuck filament was removed from the feeder, I followed your advice, and used utility shears to cut the filament at a sharp/45-degree angle. I also spoke with Ultimake email support and my reseller who both thought the issue was the knurled wheel in my feeder was rotating in the wrong direction, and this can be solved by updating the firmware. So I updated the firmware. But when I went to load the filament again, the feeder wheel still rotated counter-clockwise, so I don't believe updating the firmware changed anything. I stuck the filament up, and this time, the feeder took it and I was able to press the quick load button and it printed the robot beautifully! So the knurled wheel in the feeder rotated in the same counter-clockwise direction before and after I updated the firmware, so I guess that was not the solution. So I guess the solution was that I had to cut the filament with utility shears at a sharp 45 degree angle for the feeder to be able to grab it more easily. I am going to mention this to Ultimaker support to perhaps include this in their walk through set up process so that others don't run into the same problem I had. Thank you again kind sir, Happy new year, and I'm on to more printing! New video and pic: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3GoHMe7yvbs [media-thumb=27824][/media-thumb]
  11. First 3d printer. Ultimaker seemed the best way to go. Just got it the mail today. So excited. All was well with calibrating. Then came the step to insert the filament into the feeder. The feeder wouldn't take it though. One forum guy said to cut the tip to a point. I only have regular scissors and cannot get a sharp point when I cut the tip. The UM site says "This may require some force." So I pushed it a bit harder and started hearing the clicking I guess because the gear was trying to grab it. I then pressed the next step button to see if the gear would speed up and be able to grab it that way. A loud clicking started and now the filament is stuck inside the feeder (with nothing showing coming out the bowden tube). So I use the allen wrench to unscrew 3 of the screws to the feeder, but the 4th screw won't come loose. Who would have thought this was going to be such a pain. Any thoughts before I go through the pain of having to ship it back. Photos and video: http://tinypic.com/2mpn7xo5 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XK3ypmCJrWo

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