[Clogged print head after botched print]

1) The only cure is a heat gun and a few hours of patience.  Or send it back to the manufacturer - who will do the same thing.

Actually, a service technician from our reseller suggested something that worked surprisingly well. Heating up both cores to the maximum temperature possible and carefully pulling the filament out with a pair of tweezers got rid of the problem quickly, at least to the point where we could remove the print cores and swap them for spare ones. I thought I'd share that in case someone else had the same issue.

2) There is supposed to be a silicone pad - a white flexible thing with 2 holes in it for the 2 nozzles.  You seem to be missing those maybe?  I can't tell in these photos.  That is supposed to prevent this exact accident.

We had the pad installed, unfortunately without effect. Our pad didn't look to good though:

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3) You really need to get your parts to stick to the bed better.  You don't want your parts sliding around the bed.  Here is a long but full of useful information (I shortened it a lot in editing) video about how to avoid this in the future.  Also *ALWAYS* watch the first layer going down - at least the 4 corners - to make sure you are getting good "squish" (again - see the video).

Thank you for the video, appreciate it. We did watch the first layers go down, but I guess they came lose later. I will make sure to see what else we can do to improve adhesion.

[Ultimaker 3 active levelling failure]

We actually had the same issue. However, we did not do the factory reset before, but also kept receiving the error message after having first done manual leveling and then active leveling.

We repeated the manual leveling 10 times or more without success (also with the bed in the lowest position, freshly cleaned, etc.) until by accident we stumbled upon the solution, or at least something that worked for us: In manual leveling, there are several steps, some which require you to adjust the plate height with the jog wheel and some that require you to adjust the thumb screws. Normally, when prompted to adjust a screw, the jog wheel is disabled. However, when we accidentally used the jog wheel instead of the "middle back build plate screw" in the respective step, we realized that is was enabled. We then suspected that the step-by-step tutorial is maybe faulty and that you should actually use the jog wheel instead of the screw (only in this step). So we did that and ta-daa, afterwards, active leveling and consecutive printing worked like a charm.

So either this is a huge coincidence, or there is actually an error in both the manual and the step-by-step tutorial that is implemented in the printer. Don't know if this helps you, but it ended our leveling problems.

Either way, what's not so great of course: either the manual is faulty, or the manual calibration process does not work adequately.

[Clogged print head after botched print]

Hi,

we have had a erroneous print with our Ultimaker 3 (PLA/PVA) that completely clogged up our print head. Apparently, there was insufficient adhesion on the build plate and the material flowed into the head:

The material "glued in" the print cores so that they can not be removed anymore. Heating the cores to clean them does not work, as the material also went into spaces that are not heated. The printer is effectively broken right now.

Did anyone encounter a similar problem and can give us pointers on how to clean the head? Is this maybe due to a manufacturing error (we've had a few working prints before that and now this)?

Any help is appreciated, as we need to find a quick solution...

Thank you,

-Matt