Semus
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Posts posted by Semus
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It is not a thermistor, it is PT100 RTD. In Marlin it is:
// 20 is the PT100 circuit found in the Ultimainboard V2.x
Be aware that you can't connect it directly to your board, you need an additional circuit (like the E3D PT100 amplifier)
Thanks for the info. Looks like I might just replace the PT100 with a normal thermistor, just to make things a little easier.
The documentation on the E3D PT100 amplifier is great, but it appears to be out of my scope for electronics, unfortunately.
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Hey guys,
I upgraded my UMO+ with the UM2 upgrade kit, so I have my old UMO+ hotend lying around doing nothing.
I'm going to be modding my new CR-10 to use the UMO+ hotend, but I need to know what type of thermistor the UMO+ uses so that I can change the thermistor type in the firmware.
Does anyone know which type of thermistor the UMO+ uses?
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If it is in the gcode, I guess you should be able to see it in Cura when - in layer view - zooming in quite a lot. The "jumps" should be visible.
Concerning the "salt method" for bonding, see the full manual (PDF-file) with pics at:https://www.uantwerpen.be/nl/personeel/geert-keteleer/manuals/
Thanks for the info!
I'm almost convinced the shifting has to do with retractions. Almost...
I've gone ahead and re-tuned the machine for straightness, tightened the belts, and lubricated everything. We'll see if that has any effect on things.
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I have no idea about the shifting, as I have never seen that. I guess you already took a look at the "layer view" in Cura, or in any other slicer, so it is not a defect in the gcode file?
Apart from that, you also seem to have "warping" in the corners of the models, so your bonding to the build plate isn't optimal. This could cause the models to come loose during printing.
Depending on your preferences, I would suggest you try any of the bonding methods commonly discussed in this forum: dilluted wood glue (1 part glue in 10 parts water, as promoted by user gr5), hair spray (spray it on a tissue, then wipe the glass plate, as promoted by neotko), 3D LAC spray bottle, or for PLA-filament my "salt method": wipe the glass plate with a tissue moistened with salt water, and gently keep wiping while it dries into a thin almost invisible mist of salt stuck to the plate. Or if you use the standard glue stick, smooth it out with water after applying.
It's quite possible it is a defect in the code. I haven't investigated this, and I'm not even sure how to do that. I have taken a look at the layers view in Cura, and did not see anything abnormal, but I don't know what I should be looking for.
As far as the warping, I do seem to have a problem there. I noticed this, but it was too late to abort the print. I do use the glue stick method, but it isn't as consitent as I'd like. I will try your salt water method, and see if that works better. Would be much easier to clean, as well.
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So, I think this might be caused by retractions. Whenever there are holes in my models, the printer will retract at certain locations, and whenever the printer retracts the filament, depending on how much is retracted, and how long it has been between the retract and the next print spot, different amounts of filament may be extruded in certain spots afterwards.
I'm not certain this is the cause, but I'm leaning towards this, as prints without retractions (ie, a box or plain circle) are printing without issues. It's only when retractions are introduced that I'm seeing these inconsistencies.
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Hey guys, take a look at this photo. As you can see, the layers on the left (red square) and the layers on the right (red circle) aren't consistent. The layers on the right seem to have shifted in the Y-axis, but only in a certain spot on the print. The layers on the left are unaffected.
I'm not exactly sure how to fix this. What's even worse is that I printed a wing from the ultimaker airplane model, and it had zero shifting like this. I've also noticed this happening on a much smaller level, and only near holes.
Even weirder is that on the backside of the model (where the shifts are happening), the model is fine, as if the shift never happened.
Print speed is set to 30mm/s and travel speed is set to 175mm/s. I could post my other settings if needed.
Any ideas?
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Before tuning the settings on your own, try the default printing profiles in Cura. A lot of effort has gone into these, and for most models these are hard to beat.
And use the newest Cura of course.
Thanks, tomnagel. I use the newest version of Cura, and I've tried the "default" settings for Cura on a few of my first prints, which were quite good. I've only recently been dabbling in the more advanced settings.
It's good to know that the default settings have been tuned quite well, and I will keep this in mind. However, sometimes you just want to be able to adjust things on a per-print basis due to model constraints ;-)
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my first thought would be to try lowering the print head temperature a little, then maybe increase the cooling fans a bit. but that is without any knowledge of your current settings so that may be not relevant ?
good luck
Currently printing at 220/60 @ 30mm/s. I might try lowering that to around 200 and test again. Fans are set to 100%, as I never mess with those settings. I also forgot to mention that this was PLA.
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Hey guys, this might be a setting I can check in Cura, but I'm not sure which setting it is.
Take a look at the photo. As you can see, I'm getting these weird marks. It looks like it might be where the layers end and then a new one begins? Other than this, the print quality is superb! I am really loving this extrusion upgrade kit!! Any idea what I can do to get rid of these marks?
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Forget it, I'm an idiot. Didn't realize this version of Cura had the option to upload custom firmware.
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Hey guys, I just built a new UMO+, upgraded it with the UM2+ extrusion kit, and now I need to load custom firmware.
I was reading another forum post on this in which the user was told to place the custom firmware inside the Cura folder and replace the old firmware .hex file (while saving the old file, of course).
I can't seem to find which file is mine. There are quite a few listed, and none of them match what it says on my Ulticontroller. How can I find the correct file to replace? Or, should I just remove all the firmware .hex files, and place my custom file in the folder by itself?
Any ideas?
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Are they well aligned? No rubbing against the frame?
The motor should be pushed down as much as possible so tight is better
Yes, they are very well aligned. I'll go ahead and make sure they are tighter. I guess I'm not pushing down hard emough...
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Hey guys, I've been experiementing with my new UMO+, and I'm just not sure how tight I should be making these short belts for the X/Y.
I've heard some say they should be as tight as possible, but others say this can damage the motors.
Should I be using a decent amount of force when pulling the motors down when tightening these belts? Is there some way to test this?
Just for reference, when the motors turn, I can see one side of the belt "deflect" just a bit, as if one side is loose, and the other is not. It's very slight, but it's noticeable.
Any thoughts?
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OK, so further tests seem to favor faster travel speeds.
At first. I had it set to 100mm/s, and setting it to 150mm/s has improved things a bit.
Also, I found one of the belts to be loose, and a belt pulley not even tightened down. Woops! Will test further with increased travel speeds. I might even try a lower nozzle temp.
Seems like a faster travel speed means the filament doesn't have a chance to ooze out before it gets to the next spot.
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Hey guys, I have a weird problem with my UMO+.
For some reason, it seems to be retracting during some moves, but not others. For example, if it goes over an open spot, it retracts, but doesn't retract during travel moves over existing material.
Settings:
Layer height: 0.1mm
Initial layer height: 0.3mm
Print temp: 190c
Build plate temp: 60c
Enable retraction is checked
Retract at layer change is checked
Retraction distance: 10mm
Retraction speed: 35mm/s
Retraction extra prime amount: 3mm³
These are the only settings I have enabled within Cura's advanced settings.
Any ideas?
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Hey guys, I just purchased a new UMO+, and the prints are going very well ;-)
However, I can't seem to find any nozzles for this thing. Most nozzles I find are for the Olsson block, and the head on the nozzle is much smaller than what comes with UMO+.
I did purchase some additional nozzles for the Olsson block so that I could use them once my print head upgrade gets here. Apparently, the extrusion upgrade comes with the Olsson block standard, so the nozzles should fit, once it arrives (3-4 week lead time - UGH!).
Looks like the theads might be the same, but the fan shroud appears to be too big, and the nozzle probably wouldn't reach below the shroud very far, so clearance could become an issue.
I'm not having any print issues atm, but I'd sure like to try some smaller nozzle diameters, just for fun ;-)
Any idea where I can find some replacements for this UMO+ ?
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This is probably my own fault, but I cannot seem to access the site's top menus at all. Whenever I hover over a menu item, it gives me a drop-down list. However, as soon as I move my mouse away from the original link at the top, the drop-down list disappears.
Any way to fix this?
Running Windows 10 - Chrome - Latest updates
2560x1440 resolution.
UMO+ what type of thermistor (for firmware)?
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
Agreed. I'm sure it's probably a fairly simple process, but I have a couple of normal thermistors lying around here, so it's probably best I use those for the time being.
I'd love to learn more about the E3D amplifier and PT100, though. I started reading the wiki for the amplifier, but they use a RAMPS board as an example, and the CR-10 doesn't use a RAMPS board. They may be similar, but I'll have to do a bit more research before I attempt to use the PT100.
Really great info, though. I appreciate it ;-)