chenci
-
Posts
41 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Events
3D Prints
Posts posted by chenci
-
-
Yes i measured the filament diameter, it's 2.85 to 2.9. I've uploaded new photos. There are blobs but very small. Mainly i get an rough surface that feels like touching a fine sand paper.
I still have my doubts, is it under-extrusion? or over-extrusion?
I use Flow100% Retraction 6.5mm at default speed. Firmware Tinkergnome 17.02.1
-
Hi, i'm having some issues with a 3d printing. It happens especially in flat surfaces like this box i printed.
You can see there are a lot of uneven surfaces and gaps between the lines. I'm not sure if it is underextruding. The first two layers are perfect. The problem happens in the last layers.
Also i have calibrated the steps/mm and i use PLA at 205° - 0.4 Nozzle
This are my settings:
I use 60mm/s print speed but strangely, it prints at 30mm/s average.
Thanks for any help.
-
You can just slice your model for extruder #2 instead of #1. That should work.
Indeed, it works, in Cura pay attention you also need to change the extruder# for priming/brim/support
And quality wise, you'll always get the highest quality on the main head, simply because you're printing with a head with less weight.
This is because i want to use the second extruder with 1.75mm filament and i don't want to change the settings. This is just for experiment.
-
2
-
-
Hi, quick question. Is it possible to make your second printhead your main extruder when you print one color?
Thanks
-
Hi, the ultimaker2_mark2.def.json file in git is fixed now? Or do we have to fix it manually?
Thanks
-
Man that's sick, i can see you really love modding your printer.
By the way, it seems you were the first to use the molex 8pin! I stole your idea.
Dude, we want to see your step files!!!hahahaha
Thanks for taking your time.
-
Man, your mod is awesome! I won't be able to do something so cool (I don't have access to CNC machine).
1) Do you have the link to the original post?
2) Did you just use PCI-E 8 pin connector?
3) You got to help us with more pics and stls haha
Thanks for taking your time with the photos.
-
Ok Stupid Question coming up How do I download TinkerGnomes Software when I select the file I ge to see the code but no download... Sorry in advance ????
Right click -> download will work fine. Or you could download all the files with the button clone or download
-
Just visited the website. Great tutorial! When the second extruder arrives, i will test and post pics.
Quick question. I have the UM2+ extended. Which firmware should I use:
Mark2-dual-ext-17.02.2.hex
Or
Tinker-Mark2-extended-dual-17.02.2.hex
I don't know if there are any differences?
-
Hello, how fast can i get such board? Are they available yet? at what cost?
Many Thanks,
RUdy
Rudy.de.geus@me.com
Yeah i would like to know too. And also of course if this week we are going to have the BOM.
Thanks
-
Anyone tried something similar?
-
Yeah sure, you can just run the head #2 fans in parallel with the ones on head #1 using some Y-cables. It works just fine. You just can't turn off the #2 head entirely.
And just in case you can't get one. You can build a Y Molex extender to connect both hotend fans to the same PWM FAN without cutting the cables (just in case you want to preserve the original cables to keep the machine value or just because)
Video tutorial showing how to make a simple Y molex cable to connect both hotend fans:
Nice tutorial! It will be handy when the mark2 comes out!
Thanks
-
1
-
-
Nice. Definitely looking forward for this. What is the mark2 printhead expansion board from the video?
It's simply a small PCB that adds additional fan drivers so the fans on the second head can be controlled individually. As the main board lacks any (unused) buffered outputs from the microcontroller, I put together a little board with the missing driver transistors.
Hi, thanks for the answer. I think the question for everyone is can i still use the second extruder if i don't have that board. Or if that board is missing, is it still possible for dual extruding with 2 printheads?
Thanks
-
Hey nice idea the remote control, i figure that i can use the PCI express 8pin power cable (a have a lot of them from broken PC power supply) and mod that to take all the cables. 8 cables:
2 for heater
2 for sensor
2 for hot end fan
2 for shroud fans
It's also easy to connect
-
Something like this?
Yeah, you seem to read my mind. Do you have more information about it?
-
Haha me neither, either way i will try when the new heater arrives
-
Hi, i'm trying to maker a modular printhead easy to change without disconnecting the cables from the mainboard. The fans are easy, but how should i do it with the temp sensor and the 35W heater. What types of connectors should i use for them. I want to put all the connector in the "Print head top" so they are easy to connect and disconnect when i switch from one to another. Someone must have done it before me.
Thanks in advance
-
Nice. Definitely looking forward for this. What is the mark2 printhead expansion board from the video?
-
Hotend CHECK
Feeder CHECK
Tubing CHECK
Cabling CHECK
Magnets CHECK
>>>> Ready to go!!!!
Someone is in a hurry. I'm still waiting for my second extruder to arrive.
-
I hate heater error. I disabled that error on my printer. Which firmware version do you have on your printer? You can check from the front panel in the menu systems.
========
heater error (as opposed to error stopped - temp sensor)
You get an error if the heater can't move a certain amount in a certain time while driving full power (when it is close to goal temp it typically runs well below full power):
Firmware
Version
14.09 - does not have the feature
14.12 oct 16, 2014 - feature introduced. 20C in 20 Seconds
14.12.1 dec 15, 2014 - from 20C to 10C (still in 20 seconds)
15.01 jan 14, 2015 - from 20 secs to 30 secs (now 10C in 30 seconds)
It's a problem related to the heater itself. It doesn't rise the temperature at all, that's why the heater error. And it's not a firmware related problem (I tested with original um2+ extended firmware from cura 2.4 and it still has the same problem). I will change the heater when the new one arrives and test it again.
-
.Is there a bill of material somewhere?
I'm working on it. Almost ready. Will be ready early next month when all files get released.
Cool, be glad to tested it out next month.
-
Yes i am planning to replace the original LEDs.
This is the seller we have here. They sell LED SMD 5050 24V @60 LED/meter.
Below they say that a power supply of 1250mA can power up to 2.5meters. Using this reference i can calculate the needed LEDs
Hope it works.
-
>he heater is a 12v 40w.
WHAT?!! Is this a 12v heater on a 24V printer? If so that would be 160Watts (not 80W). I don't think the power supply on the UM2 can handle that at the same time as heating the bed. Could it possibly be a 24V 40W heater? Maybe you should measure the resistance. Wattage is VV/R (voltage squared over resistance).
If it's 40W at 24V then try my PID values for 40W heater above.
The person who sold me the heater says it's 12v 40w. He is going to send me another that is 24v 40w. Now the heater is behaving like it should. When i set the temperature to 195, it stick to 197 without moving. I'm using 40W PID 6.5, 1.5, 60. It seems to work now. It didn't before.
I will continue my quest to print more stuff with 1.75mm.
EDIT: this heater definitely has it's problems. After printing for 2 and half hours, the print suddenly stops and i got this message. I believe the temperature raises too fast to critical levels. I will try again when the new heater arrives.
The boxes are supposed to be much taller.
-
All is setup for 2.85, but I see no reason why the 2th extruder can't be a 1.75 conversion.
The firmware supports e-steps per feeder, rotation direction per feeder, Cura supports different line widths per head.... should be ok. Think you'll be the first if you go this route. How do you want to do it? a 1.75 bondtech ?
With this setup 1.75mm. Still have some issues with the temperature, i am waiting for the new 24v 40w heater to arrive. Luckily the temp is stable now and i have better quality print.
I still don't know what things should i get for the dual head mod. Is there a bill of material somewhere?
Help with printing
in Improve your 3D prints
Posted
Hi, thanks for the reply. As i said in the first post, the first two - three layers are perfect, doesn't have any artifact or small waves. The problem happens in the last layers. I will level the bed and try again.