Jump to content

chenci

Dormant
  • Content Count

    41
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

3 Neutral

About chenci

  • Birthday 11/02/1988

Personal Information

  • Field of Work
    Medicine
  • Country
    AR

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Hi, thanks for the reply. As i said in the first post, the first two - three layers are perfect, doesn't have any artifact or small waves. The problem happens in the last layers. I will level the bed and try again.
  2. Yes i measured the filament diameter, it's 2.85 to 2.9. I've uploaded new photos. There are blobs but very small. Mainly i get an rough surface that feels like touching a fine sand paper. I still have my doubts, is it under-extrusion? or over-extrusion? I use Flow100% Retraction 6.5mm at default speed. Firmware Tinkergnome 17.02.1
  3. Hi, i'm having some issues with a 3d printing. It happens especially in flat surfaces like this box i printed. You can see there are a lot of uneven surfaces and gaps between the lines. I'm not sure if it is underextruding. The first two layers are perfect. The problem happens in the last layers. Also i have calibrated the steps/mm and i use PLA at 205° - 0.4 Nozzle This are my settings: I use 60mm/s print speed but strangely, it prints at 30mm/s average. Thanks for any help.
  4. Indeed, it works, in Cura pay attention you also need to change the extruder# for priming/brim/support And quality wise, you'll always get the highest quality on the main head, simply because you're printing with a head with less weight. This is because i want to use the second extruder with 1.75mm filament and i don't want to change the settings. This is just for experiment.
  5. Hi, quick question. Is it possible to make your second printhead your main extruder when you print one color? Thanks
  6. Hi, the ultimaker2_mark2.def.json file in git is fixed now? Or do we have to fix it manually? Thanks
  7. Man that's sick, i can see you really love modding your printer. By the way, it seems you were the first to use the molex 8pin! I stole your idea. Dude, we want to see your step files!!!hahahaha Thanks for taking your time.
  8. Man, your mod is awesome! I won't be able to do something so cool (I don't have access to CNC machine). 1) Do you have the link to the original post? 2) Did you just use PCI-E 8 pin connector? 3) You got to help us with more pics and stls haha Thanks for taking your time with the photos.
  9. Right click -> download will work fine. Or you could download all the files with the button clone or download
  10. Just visited the website. Great tutorial! When the second extruder arrives, i will test and post pics. Quick question. I have the UM2+ extended. Which firmware should I use: Mark2-dual-ext-17.02.2.hex Or Tinker-Mark2-extended-dual-17.02.2.hex I don't know if there are any differences?
  11. Yeah i would like to know too. And also of course if this week we are going to have the BOM. Thanks
  12. And just in case you can't get one. You can build a Y Molex extender to connect both hotend fans to the same PWM FAN without cutting the cables (just in case you want to preserve the original cables to keep the machine value or just because) Video tutorial showing how to make a simple Y molex cable to connect both hotend fans: Nice tutorial! It will be handy when the mark2 comes out! Thanks
  13. It's simply a small PCB that adds additional fan drivers so the fans on the second head can be controlled individually. As the main board lacks any (unused) buffered outputs from the microcontroller, I put together a little board with the missing driver transistors. Hi, thanks for the answer. I think the question for everyone is can i still use the second extruder if i don't have that board. Or if that board is missing, is it still possible for dual extruding with 2 printheads? Thanks
  14. Hey nice idea the remote control, i figure that i can use the PCI express 8pin power cable (a have a lot of them from broken PC power supply) and mod that to take all the cables. 8 cables: 2 for heater 2 for sensor 2 for hot end fan 2 for shroud fans It's also easy to connect
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!