Traveler218
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Posts posted by Traveler218
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I have printed this model before with no issues. Also when I slice the model for my Prusa using Slic3r or the Prusa Control software, I don't get the issue.
Also when I moved the items around on the bed only one of the models had this issue instead of two.
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While trying to print a number of models together, I discovered that on some of the models Cura is placing the Brim Under a portion of the model. This has happened twice now.
I loaded four parts onto the print platform and saved the resulting Gcode to an external device. When I ran it on the printer, two of models had what appeared to be the Brim printed under a portion of the print. For these objecdts, there was no brim under the remaining portion of the model. Two other objects had the Brim correctly placed around the perimeter of the object. The misplaced brim was a tight oval, with the proper number of brim lines, under a small portion of the model. The rest of the rest of the model attempted to print correctly, but was essentially printed on-top of the brim in that one location. this resulted in the remaining portion of the model basic starting at layer 2. Starting above the bed, it had adhesion issues and warped so badly that the entire print failed.
Has anybody seen this happen before?
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I've now run 3 or 4 prints, and other than an adhesion/warp issue that caused one part to fall over, they have been very successful. Very good quality prints.
Glad to have the printer functional again.
Thanks All!
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Wow, that was easy enough. I thought I had tried that early on and couldn't get it to go together right. This time it went right together and everything works. I will be trying a print in the morning to see if everything is fixed.
Thanks for the Help!
Robert
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Thanks! I'll give that a try. I thought I looked at that early on and for some reason it just didn't want to work.
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I don't get it, the parts seem in the correct order to me, can you describe more what exactly is not working? are parts damaged? bend?
That's what I thought too! The problem is the BB nozzle will not install with the head assembled; although, the mechanism seems to work correctly. I even tried assembling with the nozzle already installed. The result was that the lift mechanism would no longer work and I could not remove the nozzle.
Essentially the printer is useless at this point since it will not print without both nozzles installed.
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Between the Hurricane, Squirrels in my attic, and program issues here at work I am just getting back to working on the UM# issues. Here are some pictures of the head. I can't seem to get the lift mechanism working correctly, even though it appears to be assembled properly. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Jeepers, you are getting no joy are you? Are you printing above an ancient plastics burial ground or something?
Could be!! I may have to call in an Exorcist or something.
Right now I just can't get the lift mechanism to go back together correctly. Form an engineering perspective it looks right, There just doesn't seem to be any other way to put it gother, but the Nozzle just won't install. I must be looking at something the wrong way.
Could you provide some photos?
Hi Erin;
I took off on vacation Thursday and Friday, I will try to run by work and take a couple of pictures to post.
Thanks for the reply.
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Jeepers, you are getting no joy are you? Are you printing above an ancient plastics burial ground or something?
Could be!! I may have to call in an Exorcist or something.
Right now I just can't get the lift mechanism to go back together correctly. Form an engineering perspective it looks right, There just doesn't seem to be any other way to put it gother, but the Nozzle just won't install. I must be looking at something the wrong way.
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Does anybody have an actual assembly diagram?
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There seems to be a problem with the stack-up. Either I'm missing something (Although I have all the parts shown above) or something isn't going together correctly. Using the stack-up shown, the metal part protrudes too far into the path of the hot end/nozzle. After assembly, when I try to install the nozzle in slot B, the top hits the metal piece and will not install.
It may just be me, maybe I just don't understand. I even tried putting the sprint after the metal piece, which is better, but it still will not allow me to install the nozzle.
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Thanks for the help!
No, the magnets did not pop out. Once I got it assembled the cover seems to close fine.
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I had some problems over the weekend. apparently the front, drop down door on the UM3 came open and the printer continued to try to print. I wound up with a very large mass of filament all over the #1 Nozzle and up into the head (I should have taken some pictures, it was impressive). In order to remover the filament, I was forced to remove and disassemble the head and use a heat gun to melt the material sufficiently for removal in small bites.
I now have a small problem. Everything is cleaned up, and the head is reassembled, except for the nozzle lifting mechanism. Is there a diagram somewhere that will show me exactly how this goes back together. There are two plastic pieces, a spring and a small metal piece. I just need to know the placement of the spring and the small metal piece. I think I have it figured out, but would like to make sure before closing it up.
Robert
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Looks pretty good @Traveler218!! some small strings but they should be easily removed with some pliers or a knife. You could remove them completely with an optimized print profile, but lets make it work reliably first!
If material got stuck to the nozzle, did this happen with active leveling or have you turned this off? (I believe we talked about it earlier).
Which of the fans did not run?
Curious to see how it will continue!
I believe the material sticking was related to a combination of the fan no working and the bed leveling. Once I got all of that taken care of I needed to clean the head with a manual purge and cold pull. Once all of that was cleaned up I got a great first layer print and it has continued throughout. Still having some problems with the supports but for the most part it looks great.
The front head fan (The one behind the drop down head access door) was the one not working, When I manually started it (by pushing the blades with tweezers), it started running and I have had no more problem with it.
I'm currently down to 3 1/2 hours remaining. I have my fingers crossed that it will actually complete the print.
Robert
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After 4 failed attempts to get through the first layer, with bed leveling, nozzle cleaning, cold pulls and hot pulls in between, the UM3 just printed the smoothest, most uniform first layer I have ever seen. It was truly a thing of beauty. It is now on the third layer and has continued to print fantastic. I am hopeful I will make it through this print by mid morning tomorrow and can get this one behind me. This is the second half of the print pictured above and the two will be glued together when finished.
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Progress update;
As suggested, I broke the model up into two sections: the Top Panel and the Case. This will allow me to print the case hollow, greatly reducing the print time and the material usage. I Sliced the model with a "Plane Cut" and then modified it to slide together. I started with the Top Panel, since it is the much more complicated print. It ran for 19 1/2 hours and when I came in this morning it looked great!
Now all I need to do is get the case to print. After last night, I thought that would be easy. Unfortunately, nothing is easy. I have restarted the print three times for various reasons, mostly because it just wouldn't get past the first layer. Material kept sticking to the nozzle, destroying the print. It looks like part of the problem is the fan, this time. The fan did no start running. I opened the cover on the head to remove debris, but there really wasn't anything blocking the fan. I used the tweezers to move the fan blades and it started running, so I let the print continue. Hopefully that will fix the current problem.
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Regarding the infill, if it just needs to stand there, I would definitely use lower infill. It saves both time and material. You can simply reduce the percentage in either 'recommended' or 'Custom'. You can also choose a different pattern in 'Infill pattern' in the 'Custom' tab.
We have some good resources available, have you ever checked them out?
Regarding support, if in this case they fell over, you could enable a brim and horizontal expansion. Infill should be sturdy, but it does not have to look as tidy and smooth as the outer wall.
Regarding the silicon pads, let us know if that helped. Ah.. I just see that I forgot to add a hyperlink to my previous post. Here we go again, a post with some tips. Check it out
Good luck
I previously looked at that post, the first time I had the temp problem.
This doesn't really solve the problem, but I was thinking about your previous suggestion of printing in sections. I took a look at the model and saw a detail line near the top. I used this as a location to "Plane Cut" the model. I made a couple quick mods so that they would slide together, and made the larger, lower portion hollow. I should now be able to print as two separate pieces and when they go back together it should be virtually invisible. I am currently printing the top piece, which has most of the detail. I'll let you know how that print goes.
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No, it is not functional. it is a static model for a marketing display. I have considered breaking up the model and gluing it together. I was trying to avoid that approach but may be forced to.
I am just getting comfortable with CURA, so I haven't tried anything like varying the infill %. I may give it a try to reduce the print time. In a previous printing attempt I had problems with the infill. It was very low quality and sort of fell apart. I changed from "Triangles" to Grid and it seemed to help. With the other parts I printed recently the current setting worked well, so I tried not to alter them too much. Also, I have found that with PETG, anything below 45% - 50% does not work well.
Any suggestions on what support settings to use to get better results? it tries to print just a very narrow support tower and seems to not stay together once it gets some height?
Oh, and about the Silicone cover on the nozzles, mine is torn, right between the two heads, but is in place properly. I now have a new one and will try replacing it.
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@traveler218, day 3 into your 4 day print... any updates?
Yes, It failed. It's hard to say exactly when, but it ran for at least two days. I started the print on Friday around !:00pm. I dropped by at 6:30pm after having dinner with the wife and friends and all was well. I returned again on Saturday afternoon around 4::30pm and it was still running well. Some of the supports had collapsed but aside from that it looked like it was going to be a success. I didn't make it by on Sunday, but when I cam in this morning it was printing air, with the following error.
And here is a picture of the progress:
Notice the collapsed supports. It is about a 1 1/2 inches tall at this point. Unfortunately all of the detail is on the upper section. It had just started print the case handles. Even without supports, the would have turned out well enough to work with.
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I assumed something went wrong and just started over
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Curious question; I have never noticed this before, but when I set up the print in Cura it told me 4 days 16 hours 96 minutes print time. Once it loaded to the printer it says there is 12 hours 14 minutes and 7 seconds print time. What Gives?
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..fingers crossed!
Well, when I came in today I was delighted to see that the 16h 55min print ran without a hitch. A few fuzzies but nothing that can't be worked with. I went ahead and started the big print, again without Bender. With the current settings, that are running so well, it will take 4 days to run. A perfect print for the weekend. I guess that means I will be back once or twice to check on it, but that's the way it goes.
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I could imagine myself thinking the same, and you seem to have some openings in there as well, but given your issues and notorious reputation of enclosures causing problems I would definitely look into this plausible cause.
The 8 1/2 hour print I ran yesterday afternoon completed without issue, even with 'Bender':) in place. Most of the print was completed during the day, so it was not affected by the A/C being turned off. The print consisted of a number of small objects with complex geometry, so even with infill set at 75%, there were no large areas of infill. I printed at 0.1 mm layer height using the same roll of PETG Filament that I have been using. The print came out extremely well, clean, smooth, no warp and very sharp edges. If all of my prints would come out this well I would have no complaints about the UM3.
I started a 16 1/2 hour print this morning, without Bender. I repositioned the UM3 to reduce the impact of the A/C vent. I even put Bender next to the UM3 hoping it's height would further block the draft. Tomorrow is an off-day but I will come by and check the print. If it is successful, I will start the 45 1/2 hour print that I need to complete for a priority project.
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I would highly recommend to remove the cover (and if the AC is a problem, move the printer somewhere else too), and do a few more prints / tests.
It has happened a couple of times already that users had extrusion issues because the temperature would be too high within the enclosure and be interrupting a proper material flow. It could also be why @kmanstudios could print your model without problems, since he does not have an enclosure.
I will give it a try. I'm kind of limited where I can put the printer, which is why I built the enclosure, but will look at alternate solutions. With the clearance I provided around the sides and top, I didn't think it would be any different than the "Advanced Printing Kit" sold by Ultimaker.
Cura placing Brim under model
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted
Sorry for the delay, I haven't been able to get back to this. Here is the model in question. I printed the other three parts that were being printed with this (just deleted this model) and did not have the issue. I have not had a chance to go back and print this part by itself to see if it would work. I have printed it in the past with no issue.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B7CcSSOoQEOBUEw4WGFWZ29xbkE