sfeldman
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Posts posted by sfeldman
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I am currently having the same issue. I have to physically turn all three of my fans to get them to power on. I am surprised this did not get more attention as I do not know how to fix this 😕
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I tried to delete them but I don't see an option. Just trying to spread the word. Didn't see anyone in any thread talking about it.
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I have been printing with solely ABS for quite some time now. I used an ABS/Acetone mixture which gave great surface adhesion for ABS prints but was messy to deal with. I just recently discovered PEI Sheets which are a special plastic that gains adhesion properties when it is heated. Since I installed it onto my ultimaker 2+ glass plate I have had 0 adhesion problems using ABS and all you have to do before every print is wipe it with an alcohol pad. Best method by far and can find installation videos on youtube. Here is a link for where I bought my PEI sheet. Also, to get the best enclosed heating for an Ultimaker 2+ I suggest getting the front cover through ultimaker and use a large cardboard box to cover the top. P.S. when using an enclosed heating space for ABS I highly suggest turning your fans on to 20%
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074XF3NGP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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On 11/20/2018 at 3:51 AM, tommyph1208 said:
I have tried a bunch of things over the years... From expensive borosilicate glass and BuildTak surfaces, to cheap IKEA mirrors, window glass and some PCB material which is what I'm currently using.
So, first of all, I've found the expensive products Ive tried (dedicated borosilicate glass and BuildTak) to be unimpressive... The BuildTak I tried ended up having a print stuck so well to it, that the sheet ripped and was destroyed while removing the print.
The borosilicate glass worked fine, but was eventually destroyed when I had used too strong a glue solution on top of it, and the print tore out chunks of glass when it was removed from the glass. I've later tried cheap window glass and mirrors, and they worked just as well... Never had a window glass or mirror shatter due to heat, so I'm not sure the borosilicate properties are really needed.
I like window glass better of the two, since its easier to find or get cut to size.
Currently I'm using a sort of PCB material, I'm not sure exactly what, but it seems to be some sort of fibreglass/epoxy mix and has a light brown/yellowish color...
I got it from some guy in a FB group that was offering to cut to size and sell them rather cheap, and its the best surface I've used yet...
I use a little bit of wood glue and water when printing PLA, and a ABS slurry when printing ABS, and the prints stick WELL! Once the print is done and the parts cooled down, I can usually pry them off, sometimes lifting a corner with a knife.
If this proves too difficult, I remove the bulldog clips holding the plate to my heatbed and just flex it, which pops the prints right off...I have been printing with solely ABS for quite some time now. I used an ABS/Acetone mixture which gave great surface adhesion for ABS prints but was messy to deal with. I just recently discovered PEI Sheets which are a special plastic that gains adhesion properties when it is heated. Since I installed it onto my ultimaker 2+ glass plate I have had 0 adhesion problems using ABS and all you have to do before every print is wipe it with an alcohol pad. Best method by far and can find installation videos on youtube. Here is a link for where I bought my PEI sheet. Also, to get the best enclosed heating for an Ultimaker 2+ I suggest getting the front cover through ultimaker and use a large cardboard box to cover the top. P.S. when using an enclosed heating space for ABS I highly suggest turning your fans on to 20%
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074XF3NGP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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On 11/19/2018 at 3:07 AM, SpaceDawg said:
So, has anyone here used an Ultimaker 2+ with ABS which is not Ultimaker? The irony I have is my old cheap 3D printer did work with other ABS products 😞
I have been printing with solely Lulzbot ABS for quite some time now. I used an ABS/Acetone mixture for about a year which gave great surface adhesion for ABS prints but was messy to deal with. I just recently discovered PEI Sheets which is a special plastic that gains adhesion properties when it is heated. Since I installed it onto my ultimaker 2+ glass plate I have had 0 adhesion problems using ABS and all you have to do before every print is wipe it with an alcohol pad. Best method by far and can find installation videos on youtube. Here is a link for where I bought my PEI sheet. Also, to get the best enclosed heating for an Ultimaker 2+ I suggest getting the front cover through ultimaker and use a large cardboard box to cover the top. P.S. when using an enclosed heating space for ABS I highly suggest turning your fans on to 20%
For LulzBot ABS w/ PEI Sheet:
Extruder Temp: 235C
Bed Temp: 80C
P.M. me if you have any questions.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074XF3NGP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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On 11/15/2018 at 4:50 PM, evan_bas said:
I bought an s5 recently and i'm having issues with bed adhesion.
ABS is not sticking to the glass(did not expect it to anyway), even with massive amounts of glue stick.
I tried putting on adhesive sheets, which I've had great luck with in the past.
For some reason, the S5 does the surface probing with a hot nozzle and it goes through the plastic and errors out.
Any ideas? I was planning on printing nylon and if it can't print ABS, nylon has no chance.
I have been printing with solely ABS for quite some time now. I used an ABS/Acetone mixture which gave great surface adhesion for ABS prints but was messy to deal with. I just recently discovered PEI Sheets which are a special plastic that gains adhesion properties when it is heated. Since I installed it onto my ultimaker 2+ glass plate I have had 0 adhesion problems using ABS and all you have to do before every print is wipe it with an alcohol pad. Best method by far and can find installation videos on youtube. Here is a link for where I bought my PEI sheet. Also, to get the best enclosed heating for an Ultimaker 2+ I suggest getting the front cover through ultimaker and use a large cardboard box to cover the top. P.S. when using an enclosed heating space for ABS I highly suggest turning your fans on to 20%
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074XF3NGP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Ich habe etwas Erfahrung. Was brauchst du Hilfe?
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I have been using NinjaFlex for the past few weeks and have been fidgeting with the settings and found some pretty decent ones. I have not been able to find good profile recommendations so please post what you are using to compare. I am using a stock UM2+ with a universal filament filter to keep the NinjaFlex oiled as it enters the tube. Retraction settings turned off. UM2+ completely enclosed. Blue Painters Tape to ensure plate adhesion.
Cura 2.5.0:
Nozzle: 0.4mm
Layer Height: 0.2mm
Initial Layer Height: 0.3mm
Wall Thickness: 0.8mm
Top/Bottom Thickness: 0.8mm
Print Speed: 30mm/s
Infill Speed: 30mm/s
Top/Bottom Speed: 30mm/s
Travel Speed: 115mm/s
Initial Layer Speed: 30mm/s
Fan Speed: 60%
Regular Fan Speed: 35%
Initial Fan Speed: 0%
Ultimaker 2+:
Temperature: 240C
BuildPlate Temp: 45C
Material Flow: 110%
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Having tremendous success using Ninjaflex and the Olsson Block with a 0.6-8mm Nozzle. I noticed even the minuscule diameter increase and decreased feeder pressure played a huge role in combating the Water Absorption as it seems the Molecular Chains have an easier time flowing during the Thermal transition.
That looks great! Do you mind sharing your printing profile?
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Your extrusion looks great. But you have overhang issues. That's best fixed with more fan. CRANK THAT FAN. Add extra table fans even. [reference: "more cowbell"]
What fan settings would you suggest for NinjaFlex?
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Well I got one good print...the next two have come off the bed mid way through. Bed is 45C and has a coating of PVA glue dried on it.
I use blue painters tape with glue stick on top of it and it has been working well. You can also print a brim. It will still rip off easily after the print is finished.
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I only have experience with NinjaFlex but it looks like possible extruding issues. I would print a filament filter off thingiverse to keep your filament lubricated if you haven't already. I had similar issues as yourself before I added the filament filter. I use 45C bed temp and 235C nozzle temp for NinjaFlex and I get nice results. Also I have my Ultimaker encased to keep the environment around it at a more constant temp.
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I don't know if you have had much success since posting this but I also have a UM 2+ and have recently started printing midnight NinjaFlex and have had great results. It gave me a lot of issues at first with the extruder but once I cleaned out my nozzle using the atomic method and rubbed a few drops of sewing machine oil on the first foot of filament it has worked nicely. Once the filament has been inserted they suggest heating your nozzle and allowing the filament to come out before starting any print to make sure it comes out nicely which I also do. If anyone has any questions feel free to PM me for more details.
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240C is too cold if you want good layer bonding. I've printed ABS and it had "okay" layer bonding but compared to PLA it was weak. I'm not sure what the correct temp is but 240 or 245C is definitely on the cold end and you can get these layer separation issues.
Fan at 25% should be okay but I recommend with ABS that you put a box over the top and cover the front with clear plastic to get it up to about 60C inside (don't go much hotter than that because the steppers get too hot).
A photocopy paper box is the perfect size to put on top of the printer with room for the bowden:
This is genius. I have been all over ABS forums and this is by far the best and easiest solution I have seen for keeping in heat. It's as if the Ultimaker 2+ was made to have this box on top of it.
Cura 2.4 Fans not starting?
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted
I have all of my fan options open. I have fans on the ultimaker 2+ set to 100%. I have regular fan speed set to 20% and I understand that could be why the side fans do not start but my extruder fan does not start either and that should automatically kick on once it reaches 40C yet I have to start all my fans by turning them with my fingers or tweezers.