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Ziogianni84

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Posts posted by Ziogianni84

  1. Hello everybody, this morning after a few weeks from my last print, I resumed operations with my UM3 again. 

    Unfortunately as soon as it started to heat up the print bed, the printer rebooted itself.

     

    I tried a factory reset but nothing changed... then I found a similar topic on this forum suggesting to reduce the power budget parameter in the um3.json file from 221 to 200 (available via ssh in developer mode).

     

    After this change, the printer started to work again... btw the point of this topic is to better understand which are the pros and cons of this tweak.

    As per my understanding my current power brick is not supplying UM3 with enough power... so 1 mln dollar question: do I need to replace it or it's good to leave the parameter set to 200?

     

    Can this tweak cause any damage to the hw?

     

    Thanks

     

     

    [Update] After a few minutes it failed again because of another power cycle.

  2. Hello, I was suggesting to purchase an Ultimaker S5 in a professional environment. They need to design and print prototypes then eventually realize products to be used. 

     

    In the past I got used to UM3 and I was pretty satisfied, does S5 stack up with it? I have read many posts about accuracy flaws, after a year have software upgrades fixed them?

     

    Please advise.

     

    Thanks

  3. Hi guys, I have come across this topic since I'm interested in printing designs by using ULTEM 9085. I own a UM3, what do I need?

    For sure I have to replace the nozzle because as far as I know the genuine one cannot withstand the Ultem's extrusion temperature. Moreover searching online I have only found 1.75mm spools, are 2.85mm spools available as well?

    Thanks

  4. Point is that I have as constraint the width of each single arm so I cannot increase text size as much as I'd like to

    Turn it sideways?

    Ok i've uploaded version 2 https://goo.gl/FJdQCC

    Turning it sideways? The space available is almost the same both on the top and on the side of the design.

    I dunno...I gots 'em purty big there budreaux...

    HumungoNums.jpg

    May not be the aesthetic you wished for, but it can be done.

    tried with a different line width (3.0mm) but no way! I suppose that rotating the text along the arms is the only solution... I'll give it a try later. Did you keep the original text size?
  5. Have you already tried a smaller Line Width in Cura?  I've adjusted that down to 0.3mm in the past to improve text or print small features that disappear during slicing.  It looks like Cura will allow you to adjust a 0.4mm nozzle's line width down to 0.26mm before it complains (turns the field orange as a warning), for a UMO+ anyway.

    I'll try to tweak my line width setting... so far it's set to 0.35mm

  6. I took a look at the file you linked to. The text itself is less than 2mm in size. That means it would probably close up unless you go very slow and with cooler than normal temps.

    I did a slice of the model and there were areas that the 'center dots', like the inside of the smaller 4, does not appear and in other places, like inside the numbers 5 or 6, are just one splooge of filament. That is mighty fine for a 0.4 nozzle.

    FeelerGuage.jpg

    If you made the file, try to increase the font size in your master file as much as you can.

    Yes now I recall, the version on thingiverse is old and the font size was too small to be printed. Indeed if you compare your sliced version with the one I posted previously the font size is clearly different. Later I'll post the newer STL...

    I was wondering why the discrepancy. But I would still make the fonts larger than in your original post, or make them positive, as in protruding above the surface...or, even both.

    I would also use geert_2's post as a solid guideline for sizing of text.

    Point is that I have as constraint the width of each single arm so I cannot increase text size as much as I'd like to

  7. I took a look at the file you linked to. The text itself is less than 2mm in size. That means it would probably close up unless you go very slow and with cooler than normal temps.

    I did a slice of the model and there were areas that the 'center dots', like the inside of the smaller 4, does not appear and in other places, like inside the numbers 5 or 6, are just one splooge of filament. That is mighty fine for a 0.4 nozzle.

    FeelerGuage.jpg

    If you made the file, try to increase the font size in your master file as much as you can.

    Yes now I recall, the version on thingiverse is old and the font size was too small to be printed. Indeed if you compare your sliced version with the one I posted previously the font size is clearly different. Later I'll post the newer STL...
  8. That is interesting. Is there any way that you can make the model available without violating any terms or conditions?

    On thingiverse I have already shared it but so far I don't remember how deep the groove was... And right now I'm unable to check it: https://goo.gl/FJdQCC

  9. Hello, I'm having hard time to print this design which has on each arm an engraved number that as you can see doesn't come out pretty well.

    2qmdhcp.jpg

    The subtle profile of each number is filled out with filament that wasn't supposed to be there. It could be an infill issue (set to 30%) which maybe doesn't provide a stable foundation for the top layer (thickness set to 2mm) and at the end the numbers do not show up. Otherwise any guesses?

  10. Hello, I'm printing this little pipe in TPU, the temp is set to 205°C plate to 60°C flow to 100%, speed 20mm/s and retraction speed to 45mm/s.

    21o95lf.jpg

    If you accurately look at the picture I have posted, you can see that this little pipe doesn't look great it hasn't a smooth finish either indeed the layers on its side are visible and turns out rough. Is it due to the support material? To the position, since i'm printing this design horizontally?

  11. I took a look at the file. That was most helpful as you will need to print the parts separately and then assemble. What you printed was the assembled wrench.

    There are two files called assembly2.stl and assm.stl. These are so you can see how those parts look when assembled, but all the other parts need to be printed and then put together to look like the final printed assembly.

    Yes you're right I have seen the single parts but I thought anyway that I could print the whole design in place. Otherwise what's the meaning of uploading a file which contains the fully assembled wrench? It's just a prop?

  12. Guys I tried to print this design a couple of times: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:455507

    it's called cleven wrench and I had no luck at all since the ratchet teeth are a kinda stuck and it doesn't turn as you would expect, see the picture below.

    2vbpgtz.jpg

    Basically I used standard settings and genuine ultimaker pla.

    Now I'm wondering about the tolerance of this printer and if I should calibrate or tune up something...

  13. Hi guys I have an issue, here it's

    2vj8txy.jpg

    Is it an overextruding problem or layer seams? How can I get rid of it?

    I'm using ultimaker pla and standard settings (UM3 fine quality)

    The image shown a cleaner situation since I rubbed the inner side with my finger to remove the exceeding zits.

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