Ziogianni84
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Posts posted by Ziogianni84
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Hello guys,
I'm looking for valid alternative to the genuine Ultimaker PVA and PLA.
Something a little bit more affordable but keeping the same quality level and strength.
What have you tried so far that you would suggest me? (Some brands which deliver in EU)
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NX2 is different than GreenTec
In my own experience, on UM2 hotends (never used on um3)
- Very low viscosity. You can actually retract the filament (visible effect). Very impressive low drip, good for highspeed and low speed.
- Needs bed at 70C for perfect adhesion, for really big plate objects or fan intensive on small areas I use some normal hairspray (I use 2 hairsprays for woman one is Normal and the other is Strong). And to unstick it I turn the fans on and drop some windowasher drops around or isopropyl alcohol.
- It goes white-ish for the colored ones, so I sand it and use a lighter to recover the color if I need to remove small imperfections.
- It doesn't allow simulating nozzle size lower than 0.32 with a 0.4 nozzle, with normal PLA I can go down to 0.28 max (balancing mm3/s to keep the flow and avoid errors)
- Filament size spool it's quite constant, better than greentec. GreenTec can fluctuate 0.04 easily on the same meter (specially black white and grey ones, but blue for me is very precise followed closely by red). NX2 fluctuations are near 0.02 on the same meter, so there's less errors.
- It has slightly higher temperature resistance than PLA, around 5-10C. Easily tested with atomic pulls that need higher temperature to get them perfectly out.
So. IMO is a very good material, great matte colors and very easy to sand (very fast also) and it has higher flexibility than PLA, so it can resist better impacts, but also it can deform after bending it too much, while PLA would just snap.
Thanks for the detailed review, so it's worth a try!
Have you also ever tried their MF PLA?
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Has anyone tried these filament with UM3?
What's your experience? I was oriented towards the Black NX2 PLA which should have a nice matt finish but actually I don't want to mess with low quality stuff.
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Well, believe it or not, I stopped using the prime tower a while back for these following reasons:
1. Wow, did it add a boat load of time to the printing.
2. Wow, did it just waste a lot of filament and wasting PVA really sucks.....
3. If I wanted to really protect the model I will use the ooze shield. It is much more reliable.
4. Playing with the settings bit has made the clean up of things much easier and really not that bad to do.
But, that is just me........
What kind of setting should I tinker to make things tidier?
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Why does my BB nozzle (loaded with PVA - 220°C) comes out charred after every print?
If you compare it to the AA there's a huge difference, since as you can see (on the right side of the pic) the BB nozzle is covered by a burnt layer of goo.
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Oh sorry, I must have overread this. The material guide, as the part is officially called, has indeed quite a lot of play. One could improve that a bit by adjusting the mold injection tool. However, a bit too much play is better in this case as not enough play.
Don't worry about the material guide falling down. As long as there is a spool on position 1 it cannot fall down unless it is very exposed to people touching it accidentally. The latch is just for limiting the movement of the spool in position 1.
Thanks! Just because I'm quite curious... regarding the latch, should it be closed in any way? Or should it work as is like a sort of stopper tab preventing the material guide from moving around (like actually you already explained)?
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I want to report my experience with a long print (48 hours) using PLA+PVA after installing the new testing fw 3.7.7.98 + new Cura 3. Here it's:
The prime tower definitely failed, I don't know if it's matter of PLA not sticking to PVA or something else but I'm continuously cleaning up the build plate from blobs and strings supposed to be part of the prime tower.
If any suggestion, please share.
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Hello everybody, is the Ultimaker 3 ready out of the box to print WITH steelfill filaments?
Or is it required a nozzle replacement?
I read a warning on the colorfabb website about this material, which turns out to be very abrasive and could damage brass nozzles.
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Nope. The filament has to go through the shackle.
Hi, I know that indeed it was specified in the post's introduction "Never mind...." What I meant to say was that I see the whole filament guide being loose, not the filament itself. There's a small tab in the middle of the shunk, between the two spools, which I cannot hook anywhere. So if I apply pressure on the far end of the filament guide it swings.
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Never mind about the filament which doesn't pass thru the hole, but is the filament guide installed properly?
It looks a bit loose to me...
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I have solved the issue related to the active levelling eventually, which I wasn't able to make it work. This maybe will be helpful for new UM users not habituated to auto-levelling procedures, before starting these few steps you need to keep in mind that the distance between the heatbed and its aluminum support underneath doesn't have to exceed 14mm otherwise it won't work! Rule of thumb: tighten up the three bed screws all the way down then start the manual levelling and slowly loosen them in order to calibrate the noozle with the glass plate. At the end of this procedure you can go ahead with active levelling, hope it helps.
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Hi,
If you have no experience in 3d printing i would advise to first try single prints with PLA.
Regarding your issue, wild guess would be that the print bed is to low, did you do the active levelling? Also, i would advise to use Cura instead of the phone app because it's limited in features.
Hi, thanks for your reply. I'm trying active levelling but it doesn't work since the UM says there's a non-realistic difference in height of both printcores. Indeed I see that on the right side while performing the levelling the second printcore doesn't touch the bed glass. It has been a while I'm trying manual levelling to fix the active one but no way!
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Hi everybody, I recently bought an UM3, as soon as it arrived I loaded the PLA(AA) and PVA(BB) spools included in the box then manually levelled the bed and started printing the famous robot from the UM android app with Normal settings.
What I immediately noticed was that the printer started to mess with PVA, indeed the whole bed surface was covered with PVA blobs and strings, moreover there was no trace of the prime tower.
What's wrong with it? Does the PVA maybe not sticking to the bed/PLA?
Thanks
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Hi guys I have recently bought an UM3, loading the PLA and PVA spools included in the box. I manually levelled the bed, then I installed the ultimaker app for android and started printing the UM robot as test print.
Actually It's messing with PVA, there're blobs of material all over the bed surface and there's no trace of a prime tower.
What's wrong with it?
extrudr filaments
in Materials & profiles
Posted
Neotko, my only concern is about your "white-ish" comment, does it start to fade out after pouring isopropyl alcohol on the printed part or just during the extrusion?