Julian2801
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Posts posted by Julian2801
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I've checked the height of the object as well and it has the height it should have. I believe it wouldn't be Z Wobble if the model has the desired height. Am I right?
From the looks of it I would say that the darker layers are under-extruded layers.
Printing slower and cooler didn't help. The printer doesn't have play on the X/Y axles as well. I'm pretty desperate right now.
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Hey,
I dont know why some layers are darker than others on my printed objects.
I use white Ultimaker PLA.
The object itself is pretty smooth and the corners as well as you can see in the photos.
Maybe It is Z Wobble but I am not sure. Do you have any ideas?
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As you can see the lowered print speed helped quite a bit. The holes nearly dont have a visual effect on the outer layer anymore.
But apart from the hole problem there are still tiny imperfections as you can see. May this be caused due to the fact that my spool is nearly at the end?
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So it is a slicer problem? I doubt that?
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3 hours ago, Smithy said:
The result when printing with 35mm/sec for all relevant speed settings makes no difference - same output.
Then I have tried to rotate the object on the build plate for 90° to see if there is any difference - no, same result. So with this test I can be sure, that it has nothing to do with belts or any mechanical issues.
I created another test object and printed again with same speed of 35mm/sec for everything. The result is not bad, I cannot see any issues caused by the hole, but there are still fine disorders due the two side walls.
And these disorders are for a few layers and trough the whole object, so you can see it on the back and on the front. The layers are not shifted, so the disordered layers goes in on the front and on the back, so the thickness is when measured in these disordered layers a little bit smaller than then rest.
I still have the exact same issue as you. When I printed slower the hole didn't cause an issue anymore. The layers for me also have disorders but I don't know what the cause of this is yet. Which 3D printer do you have?
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I can confirm that this is the section where the z seam occurs. My infill speed is 50mm/sec and outer and inner wall speed is set to 20mm/sec. Im printing at 0.1mm layer height at 205 degrees Celsius. I'm starting another print now and see if that helped.
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I think that the problem also occurs when the printer is doing the 100% infill for the 10 layers on top
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The pictures now are from a different model but they are showing the exact same problem. As you can see when the hole occurs the outer layer goes into the model. As you can also see the outer layer quality isn‘t really good.
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It is making 120Hz on the long belt when the head is in the back left corner. I tried it another time now. Maybe my app wasn't really accurate
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5 hours ago, neotko said:
In my experience that effect always shows specially when the X/Y are out of square
https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/19953-aligning-the-axles
1I also thought of that. But I checked it and everything is in a square.
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10 hours ago, gr5 said:
1) Did you look at this portion of the print in layer view to see if it switches between clockwise and counterclockwise?
2) Check for play. Push on the nozzle (gently) towards left, right, front, back. It should not move. Push and twist the head until it starts moving. It should not move before the steppers start to move. If it does - this is called "backlash" or "play". There I gave you two things to do - please report back.
3) Maybe more photos of the issue above would help as well. It looks like what you care about is only on the left side of the hole - is this true? Can you photograph from a few more angles and look at the photos to see if the photos are showing the issue well?
1) Yeah, you are right about the changing direction. I think the hole was in the x direction. That also fits with my observation that when I pluck the front x belt the frequency is about 310 Hertz ( I'm assuming that this means it is too tight?)
2) When I gently push the nozzle of the printhead in any direction it isn't moving. When I'm moving the whole printhead it is in sync with the stepper movement.
3) So after I eliminated the play on the axles it got a lot better. But still, there is a small imperfection. The imperfections are only on the layers where the hole starts and ends. I will wait if you can say that the front x belt is too tight and then try again. If the issue still is the same I can send you more pictures if you want.
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When I replaced my old UMO+ Sliding Blocks with the ones from the UM2 it also was a bit tricky at the beginning.
Sometimes you could only achieve a snug fit if you press the rod in at both sliding blocks at the same time. In your case, it could work if you press the head shaft in the front and back sliding block. Sometimes you have to apply much pressure in order to achieve a snug fit as well.
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28 minutes ago, gr5 said:
If you look at this area in cura layer view you can learn a lot. Cura slices your part and each layer has "islands". That hole adds an extra island. Above and below the hole it's probably printing say left to right but just left of the hole it's reversing directions (or the other way around but either way it is probably going the other direction to the left of the hole - you can check in layer view and use the horizontal scroll to see for sure).
So that bulge to the left of the hole is probably related to changing directions and that implies to me you have a loose belt in the Y direction (assuming Y direction is through that hole). How you could possibly get a loose belt on a UM3 is a mystery to me because normally all the belts have hidden tensioners inside the blocks. But I'd check the Y belts. If you put the head in a corner (important) and pluck them and check the pitch with a guitar tuner they should be 80Hz to 130Hz.
Anyway - check it out in layer view and see if I was right about the reverse direction. Maybe I'm wrong and that's unrelated.
Oh - high friction can also cause this. Put one drop (no more) of light oil (any light mineral oil such as 3 in 1 or sewing machine oil but not WD40 which is not an oil) on all 6 rods up in the gantry and push the head around to spread this.
1Thank you very much for your quick reply. I've applied some oil (the unilube oil that was included with the UM3). The weird thing is, that I don't have any loose belts. I've tightened the short belts and checked the long belts.
I'm trying another print now and see how it goes.
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Hey there,
I think I might have a mechanical issue with my UM3.
As you can see in the picture the quality of the outer wall decreases at the height of the hole.
I already noticed that I had a bit of play on axles but I fixed it. But still, the problem remains.
Does anyone have an idea about what is going on?
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Could you please repost your pictures? They aren't displayed
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Hey, I just got the same problem. I checked for play on all of the belts and retightened all the pulleys but still, the problem occurs when printing holes...
It would be nice if someone could help me with this problem
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Which 3D Printer do you have?
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Have you installed a fan for the inlet as well? Or are you just sucking the air out of the cabinet with a fan?
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Could you give me some more information about what Octolapse does? Is it slicing the STL and in the GCode the head moves to the top left position after every finished layer and then the camera takes a picture? Or do you have to give Octolapse the sliced GCode and then it is being processed?
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Just now, conny_g said:
No noise cancelling materials - foam or similar. Just the wood cabinet is enough, works perfectly well, no foam needed.
It's built from 19mm MDF material, so it's quite heavy and I think that is essential so that the printer vibrations do not make the cabinet a speaker ?.
The doors are 16mm and have 6mm glas inserts. Needs good hinges to carry the weight. And 160+ degrees hinges are helpful.
Ok! Thank you really much for the information! This is really helpful for my planning!
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Looking really nice! I'm planning to build something similar (only for one printer though). Are you using some noise-canceling materials or is the wood cabinet doing the job alone?
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34 minutes ago, gr5 said:
Is it a layer shift for sure? or just an underextruded layer? An underextruded layer would make more sense as it was dripping for a while - you could lift the lever on the feeder and slide some more filament in just before you start - but not too much or it will overextrude I think. For normal loading of filament I slide it in until it stops then back off about 1cm. Not sure how much to back off on a "resume" as I've never tried it on a UM3.
I‘m sure that this is a layer shift because the following layers stay like this the whole print without going back to the „normal“ position.
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It looks like this for me after every pause longer than 2 hours...
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14 hours ago, gr5 said:
The bed stays hot the whole 7 hours, right? Because you don't want the bed to cool - if it does the part will likely come loose enough to look like a shift.
Yeah, the bed stays hot during the pause. I will try it again and see if it will happen again. Maybe I was just unlucky....
Some layers are darker than others
in Improve your 3D prints
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I've only printed with White PLA so far. In the beginning there was a bit of grey PLA inside of the nozzle from the factory test print.