CostumeBiz
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Posts posted by CostumeBiz
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So far the print I am running on Cura is printing fine as before.
I will pull the housing off in a couple days and check that screw, when I change out the print head with an Olson block.
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M907 E1400 ; increase extruder current
G28 ; home all axes
G1 X20 Y10 F3000 ; bring extruder to front
G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length
G1 Z10 ; lower
G1 E19 F200 ; purge nozzle quickly
G1 E26 F60 ; purge nozzle slowly
G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length again
G1 E-5.5 F400 ; retract
G1 X190 Z0 F9000 ; pull away filament
G1 X210 F9000 ; wipe
G1 Y20 F9000 ; wipe
G1 E0 ; feed filament back
Here's the starting script from Simplify3D
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So you want a FFF file?
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Could you also please tell me more about Tinker Marlin?
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Hmmmmm that just does not make sense why would the print go perfectly using Cura.. and wonky half thru using Simplify3D? Are you thinking the lack of speed control on S3D is causing slippage? Well I tightened all the screws I could reach... the one on the actual Y motor proved to hard to get the tool into.
Bryn
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Thank you I will check the short belts on the stepper motor and test mark the belts.
Simplify3D said to reduce the printing speed to 50% but at what layer height should I change the speed?
In regards to the stepper motor I do have the unit enclosed as I am working with ABS but its not all that hot in there.
Tinker Marlin? How can I install it and where can I get it.
I have changed the jerk and acceleration settings on my CR10 for better prints can I do the same with Tinker Marlin?
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OK now the culprit has been made clear. It appears that there was no loose pulley afterall and that the problem was the slicing software First image with layer shifting was sliced by Simpllify3D image 2nd image by Cura. So why??? Why is Simplify3D sketchin out well past the midway of the print? I checked the print volume and the numbers where correct. I am at a loss... Hate using Cura but will be forced to if Simplify3D issues cannot be overcome.
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Ok on to the other portion of the sword. Started out great!! then as the print grew taller we can see variations in the layers starting to appear. I assume this is due to the shape and height of the item but what can be done to minimize loss of resolution???
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Bought some washers and put them on the rod where the spacer was missing.
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4 hours ago, CostumeBiz said:
Yes found out I am missing a spacer??? on one of the y Axis rods.
No seriously I am missing one 5mm black space.
Bryn
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29 minutes ago, gr5 said:
I didn't notice that. That's the problem right there. One of your pulleys is loose. One of the 6 Y pulleys.
Yes found out I am missing a spacer??? on one of the y Axis rods.
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38 minutes ago, yellowshark said:
Comparing the two images then in your original image the right hand pointy bit looks screwed too; assuming the version of the model is the same.
There was a very small build up on one arm just knocked it down with sand paper but seeing as I do not have to include additional objects in the print to get this quality I am good... the infill was 100%.
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Well I decided to check the tightness of the X Y pulleys and discovered that I am missing one of the 5mm spacers allowing one of the Y rods to move when the machine is covering a large area. Gonna go to the hardware store to see if I can find something to put there. As far as printing points goes...small projectiles and tubular items less than 1/4" diameter just do not print correctly.
I am going to change over to a Olson block in a few days what fan mods has anyone played with?
Can anyone show me pictures of successful pointy prints they have done on their UM's? and how they achieved them?
Decided to print the part on my CR10 S5 she can handle these types of prints see image from the CR10 of the same model with the same supports.
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Oh masters of the Ultimaker universe I am printing a cross gaurd on my UM2E and it printed perfectly until the last 11 minutes then it slipped somehow and the filament isn't cooling fast enough and I am getting gobbly goop. I am using simplify3D and have changed the fan setting to 100% for layers less than 3 seconds. What else can be done?
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Can anyone please help I dialed in the UM2E using a XYZ cube but then when I went to print this rib piece it came out crappy. I am using Simplify3D great news the supports came of nicely and the underside printed better than the Cura model but whats going on with the base and the tip????
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Hi Tinkergnome,
Yes I am using the correct profile preset in S3D. I have even been working with Support at S3D to figure out why their profile prints so poorly on my machine. I remember seeing a S3D thread that talked about them changing the UM profiles to put more amperage to the feed motor, I believe this is the culprit.
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Well I bought S3D to run my CR10 S5 which it does a fantastic job... the prints so far are better than I am getting with Cura and my UM2E.
I hate the supports on Cura and the way it handles flat surfaces so I would like to slice my files with S3D for my UM2E.
Bryn
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Banging my head against the wall trying to figure out why S3D is not working correctly on my UM2E. I am trying to get help from S3D support but the amended profile they send me did not change much. I suspect S3D is pushing too much filament too much head pressure it has knocked out my Bowden tube on more that one occasion... Cura never has. I am posting an image of a XYZ cube test print from both slicers. Has anyone been successful in getting the S3d print quality setting to work on a UM2 or 2E?
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If you could video it that would be great!
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Hi All,
I am looking for a used Ultimaker 2 Extended or higher in excellent condition to purchased. I am located in Southern Californian USA.
Thanks!
Bryn
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Is your Ultimaker still for sale?
Arrrrrgghhhh it almost printed it !!! HELP!!!
in Improve your 3D prints
Posted
So I should paste this script into S3D?
AFAIK
G28 ; home all axes
G1 X20 Y10 F3000 ; bring extruder to front
G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length
G1 Z10 ; lower
G1 E19 F200 ; purge nozzle quickly
G1 E26 F60 ; purge nozzle slowly
G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length again
G1 E-5.5 F400 ; retract
G1 X190 Z0 F9000 ; pull away filament
G1 X210 F9000 ; wipe
G1 Y20 F9000 ; wipe
G1 E0 ; feed filament back