GFlow
-
Posts
34 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Events
3D Prints
Posts posted by GFlow
-
-
So I have been using a 1kg spool of PLA and it keeps binding and getting pulled off the bearings of the polybox and then it starves the printer. It seems to only happen when the spool is on the lower side. Has anyone had this issue? should I weight down the spool?
-
I am using an ultimaker 3. And I can try that.
-
Yeah I think the one issue, is that I hate having the filament go through the top since it is such a pain to get the lid off with filament running through it.
-
bump for help
-
11 hours ago, gr5 said:
The feeder on the UM2 plus is identical to the left feeder on the UM3. Same height. Same feeder parts. Same feeder. Basically I don't like the looks of that hole inthe upper *rear* of that polylbox. I guess if the filament came over the top of the spool and went straight out. Better to have the hole near the same corner but on the top face I think - maybe drill a small hole and transfer the o-ring/gasket to the new hole and plug the old hole? Not sure.
I am cheap so I just use a gallon sized zip lock for nylon and pva and zip the bag mostly up except for a few cm to let the filament out. I place all of that either on the table behind the printer or on the floor behind and below the printer.
Nylon is wonderful in it's flexibility. Very few filaments are as flexible as nylon so this issue with pva will happen with pla and ngen and pet and cpe and pc.
Are you saying I should use a different hole on the box? like the one through the top and have the spool feeding the other way?
-
So I have my poly box setup like this and for some reason the PVA always wants to twist on me. I even swapped the side it runs from, but whenever it feeds it kicks to the side. It seems as if the PVA is more bound up than then nylon I am using. My old setup may have been twisting it a bit and I guess this could be the reason for it wanting to twist now. Would it be worthwhile heating up the PVA to try to de-stress it?
Also has anyone thought of printing some guides for the bearings on the polybox? So even if it does want to kick to the side it can't?
Thanks in advance
-
For this to work does the filament need to exit the holes in the top of the polybox? Or could you use holes drilled into the black section on the bottom?
-
On 4/16/2018 at 10:22 AM, Jakeddesign said:
3D Solex has a "HardCore" nozzle/core system for the UM3. Their standard nozzles are still brass, but you can buy a hardened nozzle for the system as well. this guy has everything you need: https://thegr5store.com/store/
That link isn't working for the store
-
On 4/16/2018 at 6:52 PM, JohnInOttawa said:
You might get a lot of different answers to your question.
In my case, I bought one hardcore, then a second, and have a number of different sizes of everlast nozzles. At first I thought this route was going to be ridiculously expensive, but then I started reading about folks getting into trouble with their printcores, and of course my plan was to print CF, metal and wood filled material, all of which are either abrasive, prone to clogs, or both.
So the first part of this. For abrasive filaments, you can get by with steel on the hardcore, but you will have to change the nozzle as it wears out. The good news is that you can do that and, depending on which hardcore kit you get, you will get some steel with it. If you do choose an everlast nozzle, you may find, as I did, that each of these exotic filaments has a preferred nozzle diameter. So, you will end up swapping nozzles a lot, each time risking a broken heat break, or you can do as I did, set up two hardcores, each one with a nozzle optimised for the filament you need.
The second part, some of the exotic filaments are not fully supported by Ultimaker. So they might have issues, like clogging. Even if you are fine using brass, if the material clogs, depending on how bad it is, removing the nozzle might be the only way to save the core. Again, possible with the hardcore, not so easy for mere mortals with the standard Ultimaker cores.
I'm not sure any of the above helps. I don't know where in the world you are, but I deal with George at the gr5 store and have been very happy with the support and the ability to tune products for what I need.
Cheers
John
Thanks for the info John. What different materials are you using on each print core and what size diameter do you use for each? I have some of the CF filament that I would like to start using.
-
So if got the UM3 Hardcore Pro core, that still doesn't have a hardened nozzle? I'm looking at the nozzles on the site, and I guess there are two types? Hardcore Pro and the Everlast right? And the the core kit comes with just the standard harcord pro nozzles and those aren't good enough for carbon fiber right? So then I need to order an everlast nozzle right? what size is best? Should I just stick with .4 because that is a good size and I have that or should I get something different? Also what do you do when the standard UM3 core nozzle wears out?
-
Hi, quick question, if I want to print CF materials do I need to change my whole core or should I just change the nozzle on my existing ultimaker printcore
-
Hey sorry to reopen this post, but have you had success printing the carbon fiber materials? Also is there anyway to get the stronger print nozzles now? Or do I have to wait till ultimaker comes out with some?
-
Yeah it doesn't sound the same to me. The noise only happens when the print head is changing directions, it doesn't make the noise when travelling in a straight line.. Also I am printing with nylon, and I had been using just the glass for the first few prints, and it worked great, but now the prints aren't sticking, that is why I went to the painters tape.
-
Now I am getting this where it looks like the nozzle is too close to the build plate, but I just went and did the manual leveling. This has only happened since I have been using blue painters tape. And help is much appreciated.
-
3 minutes ago, fbrc8-erin said:
Yup. That one sounds like the regular active leveling noise. Sounds just like mine:
So maybe I don't understand, but where is yours making the same noise? I am talking about the noise from 20 seconds to 24 seconds in my video.
-
So I went and checked all the bearings and they look/feel good to go, but it still rattles. See video below, there is a metallic rattle that wasn't there before.
-
Hi everyone, I am pretty new to 3D printing. I am using nylon and at first it printed well, but now I'm getting a lot of stringing. I bought a polybox and I have dried the nylon to prevent moisture from being an issue. I also increased retraction distance and speed while reducing the print temperature. What else can I do to improve my prints.
Also when I go to dissolve the PVA the thin walled sections are warped. Is that because it shouldn't sit in water for a while? Can it still absorb water after its printed?
-
Ah yes that does make sense, no need for a video! Thanks
-
So there is still some sounds while printing and I think it is due to play in the axles as I can move one of them back and forth with my hand. I am trying to re calibrate the print head as seen here: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/50679-check-for-play-on-axles. I am confused on when it says to check to make sure the axles are in the middle of the bearings. What exactly does that mean. Also when using the calibration sticks it says to tighten the set screws, but I thought I already did that on a previous step? Am I missing something?
-
Bump for help. I did print some other ones that have turned out better, but I am still getting stringing. I think the first one had some PLA still stuck in the print core. I have tried to mess with the travel by adjusting combing mode so that the print head doesn't go outside the part, but I still get it making travels across the part causing bad stringing in the middle. How do I fix this?
-
Yep that did it! What do you think causes it to get offset like that? Perhaps when I was manually moving the printhead to lubricate the x/y shafts?
-
I think its the plastic bracket hitting the upright z bearing. I don't know how to adjust it however.
-
Hi so I have have had my UM3 extended for about 2 weeks now and I just oiled the bearings last week for the x and y axis and it is starting to make some weird noises. Please see the videos here. https://photos.app.goo.gl/RRrgZTrEF5HUilKC3.
Issue 1. For some reason when swapping print heads I can't get the sound to go away when the lever enters the opening. I tried re calibrating a few times and that didn't work.
Issue 2. It looks like the x/y plastic piece is hitting the upright z bearings on both sides. How do I fix this or is this normal?
Thanks,
Greg
-
Hey everyone. I tried to start printing some TPU 95A today and I had issues with stringing and the interlayer adhesion. The piece I made has already cracked in 3 different places. I am using the advanced printing kit cover with a polybox to keep the filament from getting too much moisture. The RH is about 56% because I live in New Orleans. Please see some photos below.
PolyBox issues Da Clumsy Noob solved to stop grinding
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
Yes that is correct it's near the end of the spool. And when I say pulled up it actually comes off the bearings of the polybox and is pulled towards exit holes.