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killmelast

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  1. Yeah, I am a bit hesitant to print it that hot for extended periods. I will most likely "upgrade" to E3Dv6 among other things on my list.
  2. Hello, I recently acquired Ultimaker 2+ and noticed some material is leaking between the Olsson Block and the hot end isolator. It doesn't really happen at lower temps when printing PLA but does happen at higher temps when printing CPE/PC/etc. I took apart the headblock to investigate and found nothing noticeable. Upon putting it back, however, I noticed that the installation instruction calls for the following: "Make sure the hot end isolator just covers the screw-thread of the Olsson block; there should be a small gap and they should not touch each other." (1) Is the leak normal for Ultimaker 2+? It's substantial enough that I don't think a quality long print is possible. (2) What's the risk of tightening the Olsson block without a small gap with the isolator? and would that solve my leak? (3) I think the issue could also be related to my extruder. Is there something I can do in my settings to minimize the leak? Thanks!
  3. Thanks, conny_g. Yeah, I came across that awesome mod awhile back. I believe they used E3D hotend to achieve those temperatures. Upon re-reading it, however, I think I might be able to reach 280C just by replacing the OEM PTFE coupler. On the other hand, is that a safe modification supported by the controller board on 2+? I would hate to replace the board down the road... Edit: realized the coupler on 2+ is TFM not PTFE. Would TFM support 280C?
  4. I am new to the Ultimaker ecosystem and I recently acquired a 2+. What's the best (and safest) way for me to achieve higher temperature on a 2+? I came across the E3D V6 mod and 3D Solex heaters so far. Alternatively is it possible to just "upgrade" my coupler and tweak the max temperature setting in firmware? I just want to consistently reach 280C without compromising the rest of my machine.
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