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swatti

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Posts posted by swatti

  1. 3.5 has bugs in spaghetti. Seems 2 walls has "least" bugs. Up that to 3 and things explode.

    EDIT: Kinda hilarious, even the mighty Bondtech starts to tear into the filament when im ramming it in 0.9mm layers out of a 0.6 nozzle at 200mms. Even at 230c it wont melt fast enough and yes, i have the volcano.

  2. EDIT: Forgot, this is on 3.4.1
    I will test 3.5 and get back to you.

    MAJOR BUG found in spaghetti infill.

    I finally found a nice settings that work with spaghetti and do what the initial target was, but the spaghetti is broken, baaad.

    Once a more complex than a test-cube is sliced, it makes random spot of infill into gigantic. Different flow, inset and extra volume -settings change how messed up it is but there doesnt seem to be a "trick" to getting a clean print.

    Kinda sad, i printed the test-cube at hilarious rate and it all looked so good.

    PIC1 - Copy.jpg

  3. PROGRESS!

    Its somehow connected to the pattern! 
    Triangles seem to be able to do once every 2 layers but "lines" "grid" and "Zig Zag" can only do every 1 layer.

    I'd say those three are the only patterns "viable" for good 100% (or 99%) infill. Infill crossing over existing ones is meant for less than 100% infilled models and doing fat lines that cross over existing lines would end up in bumps.

    So, the question now is: How do i make lines, grid or zigzag every 2-3 layers? ?

  4. Can you install the normal version and give it a quick test? Does it show in the preview on master, i'd imagine it does or should. 

    If its a problem with this version, i can give it rest for a while and/or make a topic on github.

    I need to ficure out if its MY settings, this current version or something else.

  5. 3 minutes ago, bagel-orb said:

    If a (part of a) layer is too thin to be printed at the 0.3mm layer height it will print it at the normal 0.15mm layer height.

    I don't have any problems with Infill Layer Thickness here on the master branch, though... I have infill printed every other layer for the most part of my angled cube.


    99/100% Infill?

    Post me a project-file with your settings in it. I wanna see what i have different.

  6. I have a large'ish nozzle
    I do 100% infilled parts

    I do low .2 wall layers

     

    Doing infills every layers is kinda pointless. Takes LOTS of time and since i do 0.2mm (or lower) layers i could infilling every 2-3 layers and it would still look good and be durable. I did this back when i was using Simplify3D and it worked... But as we know, S3D is, well... Poopy. 

    "Infill layer thickness" -option doesnt seem to do much of anything even if doubled or tripled. It still does infilling every layer.

  7. Tried setting it to UM2. Then back to Marlin. No temp control. The settings tied to its visibility still taunt me in the list.

    Installed the plugin. Settings now visible. 

    Writing all in caps is "shouting" but did i write "all" in caps? No. I was hoping to point an importan part out so people focus on that instead of something else.

  8. After some detective-work i learned cura once had a way to control nozzle temperature per layer. Those who had that turned on should still be able to but those of us who installed a version after the feature was removed can no longer use this feature...

    Do i really have to install an old version just to get this working? Why was it removed? Is there a way to get it back by other means?

    An older version had an option for "nozzle temperature control" and that remains a prequisite to unlock the per-layer settings STILL FOUND UNDER MATERIALS TAB, but as the forementioned has been removed, the settings wont appear.

    So, a REQUEST:
    - GIEF temp control!
    - Let us change temperature for first ~3-4 layers.
    - An option to considor each layer of raft as "first layer"
    - An option to change after-raft-layer SEPARATE from others and WAIT to reach the temp (do an over-cool layer on top of raft for easy removal)
    - An option to wait for temp to be reached or "just keep going" (forementioned after-raft layer excluded)
    - An option to wait for nozzle and bed temperature before starting print or just go with firmware limits. (AKA: wait or start early with temp still raising, beds are slower to raise)

  9. On 8/20/2018 at 8:22 PM, gr5 said:

    This might be available now.  Not sure.  You can split your cad part into two parts (2 STL files) - the portion that can be printed fast and the portion that should be printed slow.  You can put both parts into build plate, set settings for each differently (over on the left side of cura) and then select both parts at the same time, right click, and there is some kind of merge or something in the choices.


    Would end up quite complicated in some cases. I was hoping to ease that with a simple setting.
     

    On 8/21/2018 at 11:14 AM, Dim3nsioneer said:

    Decreasing the acceleration and jerk settings should have a similar effect. Small features have a lot of direction changes and are therefore printed slower while long straight lines still reach a high speed. But please keep in mind that the extrusion rate might not be the same for slow and fast parts and small details might become thicker than wanted.


    Decreasing the Jerk/JD and ACC settings affects the whole model, reducing speeds where they should be high. 

    I run 32bit system that monitors extrusion along the whole path so no worries there.

    -------------------

    I print biiiig. Very big, but some parts have small details in the outer surface. The bigger you go, the more it means.

  10. I've noticed manually reducing speed to ~50% or below will make text on the surface come out lot nicer. However, it will affect the whole print, same if i lower jerk/JD and acceleration.

    Print a vertical "plate" some ~80mm high and put letters on it on one side. Run suuuupa-speeeed and it will look horrid. Run sloooow and it turns out nicer.

    Cant we have both? ?

    I'm quessing here BUT i'd imagine its quite easy to measure how "long" the next loop is before the nozzle has to change direction again. If next loop is below say, 3mm, reduce speed for that short loop down to XX-mms.

    Now the machine will do small details sloooowly and for instance, the big empty side of the forementioned "plate" fast as there are not text/details on it.

    An advanced version would be to try to detect circular patterns, they may, or may not benefit from this setting. 

    Running "concentric" infill pattern can be really fast on some prints compared to any other, BUT when running real fast, some infill-turns and sharp corners may end up looking ugly. Another spot to slow down, then slam-the-gas when printing longer lines.

    • Like 1
  11. Shameless ripoff from Simplify3D, small, yet VERY powerfull feature.

    If one file has multiple models, i want to separate each into an individual model. From the pic you can see a complex machinery, if i want to print just a single gear from it, its a pain to go back to SolidWorks, chop up that model, save as STL, then load it into Cura. Also, some of us might not have access to mesh-editor or any editor to remove unwanted parts from the file.
    The only good thing S3D did well was "simplify" things. One click and all parts were separate. Pick on you want, delete rest and slice.

    "CAN IT BE DONE?"

    PIC1 - Copy (2).jpg

  12. 1: Apply Fuzzy only in the "exterior" of the model. 
    Speed issue mostly.
    My model is hollow, the in-looking wall is also fuzzied, and screw-holes in the "floor" of the model. I doubt many would need interior fuzzied. 

    2: Triangular pattern
    Controllable pattern
    Instead of randomized, add a pre-determied triangular pattern as an option. 

    3: Choose fuzzied wall-elements
    Possible even?
    Pretty much click on surfaces what to fuzzy-fy. Obviously surfaces that stand out a bit.

    lähetys.jpg

    • Like 1
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