Garufa
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3D Prints
Posts posted by Garufa
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4 minutes ago, Garufa said:
look at page 3 of this topic, there is the original description for the image and creator. SUPERDAVE42
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5 hours ago, Garufa said:
look at page 3 of this topic, there is the original description for the image and creator.
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4 hours ago, 3dprntz said:
For about $150 for everything, Seems like a good deal. The parts are much cheaper than OEM. You mentioned that you ordered the UM3 printboard before and installed it on a UM2. How much were you able to transfer over and get functional?
Probably if you grabbed this board, you would need to remap most of the pins and find a way to get the capacitive sensor to work.
Yes if you have to remap them at the PCB connector - it is not the same as the UM3 connector.
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9 hours ago, ansonl said:
The clone um2.5 print cartridge fits 1.75mm as shipped? And the real um3 cartridge is for 2.85mm?
they come in for using 2.85mm filament, the heat break and nozzles for 1.75mm you can find on AliExpress
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8 minutes ago, Garufa said:
Those are for the original UM3 - compare the PCB boards with the UM2.5 to see the differences
or modify the PCB as DIY see picture below form another forum
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2 hours ago, 3dprntz said:
mentions that the heat throat and pcb needs to be programmed to work in this one.
Those are for the original UM3 - compare the PCB boards with the UM2.5 to see the differences
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15 hours ago, 3dprntz said:
Awesome! This one is the UM3 head board? 3D printer accessories DIY suitable for UM machine upgrade extruder adapter driver circuit board NO.2012 | Taobao Agent Bhiner (www-bhiner-com.translate.goog). I don't know how much you can understand, but the previous one you sent for the UM2.5 is just the board or the whole print head? Guess this one is confusing since it shows the partial head instead of the whole with all the fans. Have you worked through this agent website before?
Yes I have purchased the PCBs for the toolhead and nozzles and no they are not compatible with UM3 PCBs. At the back of the nozzle and toolhead are 4 contact points instead of 5 and no circuits for LED or sensors- you can use the UM3 parts but replace the PCBs and adapt if you want to use 1.75 mm filament.
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6 minutes ago, Garufa said:6 minutes ago, Garufa said:
https://www.bhiner.com/Search?skey=UM2.5 25100
https://www.bhiner.com/taobao-agent/646573803386
https://www.bhiner.com/sellerStore?seller=尚电明华&offset=1
the last one takes you to the seller's store - look for UM2.5 and UM3 toolhead parts.
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2 hours ago, 3dprntz said:
Could you provide a link? I am having a hard time finding the page. I did find this but it appears that it is off the shelves or not sold anymore. 3D Printer Accessories ul...-Taobao.com
https://www.bhiner.com/Search?skey=UM2.5 25100
https://www.bhiner.com/taobao-agent/646573803386
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On 2/9/2024 at 11:29 AM, Garufa said:
I have not tested the bed leveling with it, I understand that additional hardware is needed.
Check Bhiner for ultimaker2.5 -is hard to know what is included. Other parts for UM3 toolhead are available in the same site.
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On 2/5/2024 at 6:33 PM, Garufa said:
You could install the UM3 toolhead- 😊 it works great
Files to 3D print the toolhead are in GitHub - one piece is best in metal or high heat resistant material
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On 2/6/2024 at 5:36 PM, 3dprntz said:
Wouldn't be a bad idea. Has the print head part become cheaper? And does the bed leveling works with the included capacitor?
I have not tested the bed leveling with it, I understand that additional hardware is needed.
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On 2/1/2024 at 1:03 PM, ansonl said:
You could drill out the top coupler holder to let a 2.85m filament through and find a thin enough ptfe tube that fits in the pipe but is also 3mm ID. Someone mentioned that they modified the parts earlier in this thread for 2.85mm.
You could install the UM3 toolhead- 😊 it works great
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3 minutes ago, Garufa said:
I believe this is what you are looking for: from thingverse - I have one for my UM2+ but could not find it today in AliExpress
Most recently the UM2 Power/USB adapter board has been manufactured and available via AliExpress. Just search for "UM2 Power USB Power Switch adapter interface for adapting Duet 2 WiFi Controller"
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3341261
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On 5/19/2023 at 7:25 PM, drphil3d said:
Does anybody know where to source this PCB from or am I going to have to redesign it for myself. I have the MCAD files of it, don't remember where I got it, can't find it for sale anywhere.
https://a360.co/3MFJUdB
I believe this is what you are looking for: from thingverse - I have one for my UM2+ but could not find it today in AliExpress
Most recently the UM2 Power/USB adapter board has been manufactured and available via AliExpress. Just search for "UM2 Power USB Power Switch adapter interface for adapting Duet 2 WiFi Controller"
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On 6/17/2023 at 1:07 AM, ansonl said:
@Garufa I upgraded a UM2 to BTT Octopus Pro combined with the improved DXU design and Marlin 2.
I modeled the metal hotend holder modifications needed and had the aluminum parts SLM printed and top nylon parts SLS printed.
All custom parts and Marlin firmware instructions mentioned here are now uploaded to https://github.com/ansonl/DXU
The result is very reliable after some work and needs minimal post-processing to get the lever to move. I actually ended up only using the middle SLS nylon part and using my own printed top and bottom plastic parts in PC because the SLS printed top and bottom were a bit loose around the bearing but this could be fixed with some rubber spacers to make it "thicker".
I also used the UM2 fan shroud design by Labern but the normal UM2 fan shroud works fine too. The UM2 fan shroud is actually slightly smaller in footprint and thinner material makes it much easier to attach to printhead but I already spent the money to get the Labern shroud SLM printed in the same order...
Ulticontroller I2C breakout and adapter board that I created to make Ulticontroller LCD display compatible with most 3rd party controller boards. Most controller boards don't use I2C connection for the LCD so the I2C needs to be rerouted from elsewhere on the board to the right pins in the ribbon cable. Needed to order a second pair of ribbon cables to pass through the adapter board. SD card, encoder, button, and buzzer are functional as well. I ran into an SPI communication issue with the Octopus Pro that prevented me from using the SD card reader at the same time as the second MAX31865 PT100 amplifier which also uses SPI 😞
UM2/2+ case routing and management. I modeled some 3D parts to accommodate the increased height of the new motherboard and organize the wiring. The metal UM2 motherboard cover can't be used anymore so I had to make a new motherboard cover and riser/border to mount it. A 3D printed cable trench is used for cable routing. The new motherboard cover uses most of the original holes on the case and rests on the cable trench carrying the printer with your fingers around the bottom side edges is safer.
A INA826 amplifier board for PT100/PT1000 amplification is needed for the bed temp sensor since most 3rd party controller boards don't have multiple built in amplifiers like the Ultimainboard. The Ultimainboard uses 3 INA826 amplifiers and Triangle Lab sells a similar expansion board on Aliexpress. Marlin doesn't support MAX31865 amplifier for bed header so an off-motherboard amplifier is needed for bed PT100. Octopus Pro has 1 built in MAX31865 and I used 1 additional MAX31865 that fits into the stepper driver slot. SPI issue mentioned earlier means SD card reader can't be used but I added a ESP32 loaded with ESP3D firmware to the Octopus Pro so a usb cable isn't needed for remote printing. Temp sensor cables need the MOLEX KK ends changed to JST-XH. Some of the cables are shorter than ideal but they will barely reach.
Bed heater power cables need to be modified to have eyelet ends to fit into screw-on terminals on Octopus Pro. I mounted a LRS-350-24 PSU on the opposite side of the underbody.
Controller board cover put on
Controller board cooling fan mounted
UM2 rear view showing 2 UM2+ feeders, custom rear panel mount with IEC power connector switch and USB socket. No more wiggling the power connector risking damage to the controller board!
The printer is very quiet even at high speeds (300mm/s and 9000mm/s^2). Unlike the noisy original UM2 motors, if you don't look at the printer, you wouldn't know whether it is printing or not! The loudest parts of the printer are the high speed part cooling fan and PSU fan and they aren't noticeable in a cabinet enclosure that I have the printer in.
Marlin 2 input shaping works and the firmware is stable. I have some firmware tips on the DXU repo linked above but need to add my config in the future.
great job and it is very clean and organized ! ! thank you for sharing it and for the DXU repo information.
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some slicer programs can repair the file, or select "print thin walls" - it should print OK
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Ansonl I am glad it is working for you !
I will check the latest changes to Marlin that you have mentioned here. I have ben struggling with the firmware for BTT SKR3-EZ and only today I figured out that needed to have the TMC drivers, and the temperature Sensors connected to the board so I could have USB communication via pronterface, I could not do it without; finally I am getting somewhere.
thanks for your contribution to the DXU community !
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On 1/8/2023 at 9:55 PM, ansonl said:
Oh I see what you mean by the heater block screw. I thought about about adding a horizontal block with a hole in the original DXU for same effect but could not find a good way to do so.
1. So if I go off Benleo888 diagram, you mean to widen the top metal UM2 part hole to fit the entire wider OD of heatsink when it moves up and down and this is due to only filing down 1 top heat sink flange instead of top 4 flanges like BenLeo888. The filing down of the original heatsink flange OD to which smaller OD? Trim off flange just enough for the spring to fit over it and rest on the next flange?
2. I assume there is not enough vertical room for heat sink to move fully up if I do not trim the top flange right? I guess widening the top metal part hole is much easier than filing away more flanges for you?
3. Does your modified block design part eliminate the need for the blue spacer part I circled in red in BenLeo888 diagram since the top side of spring will rest against the bottom of the lip you put in the block instead of spacer?
4. If you are concerned about Marlin 2 compatibility with UM2 case and cartesian linear bearing printer design, Marlin 2 works great for the last 2 years for me. I've thought about changing out the board for a fystec spyder since it has lots of motor and heater pins in the future as well.
#1 - YES just file down the top flange to match flush with the O.D. of the upperpart- the spring is not longer over the heat sink - see the modified lower assembly , no need for spacer.
#2 - Correct. drill the hole to match the O.D. of the upper part. filing so many flanges I believe might compromise cooling
#3 - YES no spacer needed it is incorporated in the modified lower assembly
#5 the nozzle switching (t1 &T2) and docking position, Z height for T1 and T2, are the only parts I worry to get right
hope my notes help you
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23 hours ago, ansonl said:
@Garufa I see both his post and yours and am interested in converting my original DXU to your design.
I have a few more questions after reading:
1. Is there a mechanism that holds the second moving nozzle/heater block in place so that it stays straight and doesn't "spin"? Sort of like the small set screw in the lever in original DXU touching the sanded flat portion of the metal tube. That has been the weakest part of the original DXU design for me. 50/50 times I need to adjust/change the nozzle and I strip out the polycarbonate lever screw hole or crack the lever = print and sand another one to fit. 😞
2. Are you using some sort of purposely flexible wire to connect your heater cables to your printhead board since they still move relative to the printhead? Was your cable harness setup that was previously breaking different from the cable setup in the original DXU?
3. Is the reduction in heatsink OD the only change that requires machine metal work for this mod?
4. Have you been able to get Marlin 2 working on your printer now?
I'm close to resolving an issue in the new Marlin 2.1.2 firmware that prevents the Ultimaker stepper motor drivers from operating correctly...
Ansonl
1- there is not need for the screw to hold the tube or flatten the face, the heater block's screw keeps it aligned, it is centered in a hole in the aluminum assembly. The lift lever now use the top part of the tube to lift it (like UM3)
2- the wire from the heater cartridge is rigid, but a small section of flexible wire can be added to release the pressure onto the 12 pin connector - but it not a recurrent problem (is it similar to the UM3 heater's short cable) if you run your wire harness down it will provide more flexibility.
3- need to file down one of the heatsink flanges (Top only) and drill the top plate trough to allow it to "lift" and lock against the second flange from the top ; the bottom plate needs to be drilled halfway (same OD as the flanges) to let it go down further below nozzle 1. The mod I did to the (STL) bottom part of the head assembly, let you keep the spring inside and only loose one flange from the heatsink
4- I have not. I am planning to use an SKR3 EZ board I have purchased, but not ready yet until I know Marlin 2 is working well.
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18 hours ago, ansonl said:
@Garufa, I looked back and found it - very cool. Is this listing on Thingiverse your files and instructions? It looks more durable than the original DXU design, I like the use of the Ultimaker 2 "stacked" print head design.
Is there strain relief for the temperature probe and heater cabling for when the heater block moves up and down or are the cables not breaking with constant motion in your experience?
I did modify a bit the design (check posts) of Benleo888 which is great (check his work and STL files from 2020). I had in the past errors with the heater cable because is too rigid, and I have created a mini board (similar to UM3) to have the cables connecting to a 12 pin adapter, but if you use the original cables and harness I suspect it will be more flexible. mine is working fine so far.
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On 12/27/2022 at 10:42 PM, ansonl said:
I uploaded my updated DXU files and firmware instructions at https://github.com/ansonl/DXU and https://github.com/ansonl/Marlin-DXU.
- Marlin 2 firmware for DXU instructions and repo
- Dock adapted for UMO+ frame
- Heater clamps with 1mm thin jaws. The linked Taobao seller sells a quality all metal hotend but the heatsink flanges are only 1mm vs 2mm apart. The seller says he can do a special order of heatsinks with 2mm flange spacing with a minimum order quantity of 50 but I currently don't have a need for 50 heatsink alone!
Ansonl, check my post from may 31, 2021. that mod allows you to eliminate the heather clamps and not to worry about the fins gap. it is using/modifying the UM2+ hardware.
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35 minutes ago, ansonl said:
Cool to see! Is the all metal heat break sticking out same length as the gold-non-all-metal heatbreak once it is inserted into the heatsink?
They are different but overall length is the same
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Got the DXU adapter from AliExpress, it is an all-metal adapter the tube goes in about 4 mm
see photo - left is AliExpress includes heater block and nozzle!! No tool
one on the right is from Binner - dual metal heartbreak but no all metal hot end , includes tool
AliExpress adapter appears to be better build and is a complete kit
DXU - Efficient Dual Extrusion Upgrade for UM2+
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
Ali Express cartridge for UM2.5 https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806157386321.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.1.2b423ad0Ua55tV&algo_pvid=29e37112-6e28-45e1-9066-19a0f9ef2659&algo_exp_id=29e37112-6e28-45e1-9066-19a0f9ef2659-0&pdp_npi=4%40dis!USD!41.31!41.31!!!297.00!297.00!%402101d69b17080397886677794e1d2a!12000036830132076!sea!US!888957344!&curPageLogUid=mrskkqICLe0q&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch|query_from%3A#nav-review