Garufa

Ali Express cartridge for UM2.5 https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806157386321.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.1.2b423ad0Ua55tV&algo_pvid=29e37112-6e28-45e1-9066-19a0f9ef2659&algo_exp_id=29e37112-6e28-45e1-9066-19a0f9ef2659-0&pdp_npi=4%40dis!USD!41.31!41.31!!!297.00!297.00!%402101d69b17080397886677794e1d2a!12000036830132076!sea!US!888957344!&curPageLogUid=mrskkqICLe0q&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch|query_from%3A#nav-review

look at page 3 of this topic, there is the original description for the image and creator.

Yes if you have to remap them at the PCB connector - it is not the same as the UM3 connector.

they come in for using 2.85mm filament, the heat break and nozzles for 1.75mm you can find on AliExpress

Those are for the original UM3 - compare the PCB boards with the UM2.5 to see the differences

Yes I have purchased the PCBs for the toolhead and nozzles and no they are not compatible with UM3 PCBs. At the back of the nozzle and toolhead are 4 contact points instead of 5 and no circuits for LED or sensors- you can use the UM3 parts but replace the PCBs and adapt if you want to use 1.75 mm filament.

https://www.bhiner.com/Search?skey=UM2.5 25100 https://www.bhiner.com/taobao-agent/646573803386

Check Bhiner for ultimaker2.5 -is hard to know what is included. Other parts for UM3 toolhead are available in the same site.

Files to 3D print the toolhead are in GitHub - one piece is best in metal or high heat resistant material

I have not tested the bed leveling with it, I understand that additional hardware is needed.

You could install the UM3 toolhead- 😊 it works great

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3341261

I believe this is what you are looking for: from thingverse - I have one for my UM2+ but could not find it today in AliExpress Most recently the UM2 Power/USB adapter board has been manufactured and available via AliExpress. Just search for "UM2 Power USB Power Switch adapter interface for adapting Duet 2 WiFi Controller"

great job and it is very clean and organized ! ! thank you for sharing it and for the DXU repo information.

some slicer programs can repair the file, or select "print thin walls" - it should print OK

Ansonl I am glad it is working for you ! I will check the latest changes to Marlin that you have mentioned here. I have ben struggling with the firmware for BTT SKR3-EZ and only today I figured out that needed to have the TMC drivers, and the temperature Sensors connected to the board so I could have USB communication via pronterface, I could not do it without; finally I am getting somewhere. thanks for your contribution to the DXU community !

#1 - YES just file down the top flange to match flush with the O.D. of the upperpart- the spring is not longer over the heat sink - see the modified lower assembly , no need for spacer. #2 - Correct. drill the hole to match the O.D. of the upper part. filing so many flanges I believe might compromise cooling #3 - YES no spacer needed it is incorporated in the modified lower assembly #5 the nozzle switching (t1 &T2) and docking position, Z height for T1 and T2, are the only parts I worry to get right hope my notes help you

Ansonl 1- there is not need for the screw to hold the tube or flatten the face, the heater block's screw keeps it aligned, it is centered in a hole in the aluminum assembly. The lift lever now use the top part of the tube to lift it (like UM3) 2- the wire from the heater cartridge is rigid, but a small section of flexible wire can be added to release the pressure onto the 12 pin connector - but it not a recurrent problem (is it similar to the UM3 heater's short cable) if you run your wire harness down it will provide more flexibility. 3- need to file down one of the heatsink flanges (Top only) and drill the top plate trough to allow it to "lift" and lock against the second flange from the top ; the bottom plate needs to be drilled halfway (same OD as the flanges) to let it go down further below nozzle 1. The mod I did to the (STL) bottom part of the head assembly, let you keep the spring inside and only loose one flange from the heatsink 4- I have not. I am planning to use an SKR3 EZ board I have purchased, but not ready yet until I know Marlin 2 is working well.

I did modify a bit the design (check posts) of Benleo888 which is great (check his work and STL files from 2020). I had in the past errors with the heater cable because is too rigid, and I have created a mini board (similar to UM3) to have the cables connecting to a 12 pin adapter, but if you use the original cables and harness I suspect it will be more flexible. mine is working fine so far.

Ansonl, check my post from may 31, 2021. that mod allows you to eliminate the heather clamps and not to worry about the fins gap. it is using/modifying the UM2+ hardware.

They are different but overall length is the same

Got the DXU adapter from AliExpress, it is an all-metal adapter the tube goes in about 4 mm see photo - left is AliExpress includes heater block and nozzle!! No tool one on the right is from Binner - dual metal heartbreak but no all metal hot end , includes tool AliExpress adapter appears to be better build and is a complete kit