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meskan

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Posts posted by meskan

  1. 3 hours ago, gr5 said:

    Wow.  This is again, news to me.  Ultimaker PVA has always been more brittle than PLA but not so bad that it would break while loading or break in the bowden.  I've never treated it gently.  Again, I'm told that this can happen if it gets too dry but I use a LOT of dessicant and regularly recharge the dessicant.  Around 1 Cup or 1/4 liter of dessicant per spool.

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  2. On 3/31/2021 at 3:22 PM, gr5 said:

    This is news to me - cracking PVA.  Is this Ultimaker brand?  I wonder if they changed their formulation?  Or if it's just too dry?  Maybe instead of heating you should leave it out in humid air for an hour?

    I just open a new pkg (Ultimaker) that i just received and to straighten it enough to feed into the feeder is a test of patience to not break it.  PLA, bends easily.

  3. On 3/30/2021 at 4:17 PM, rbeddoe said:

    How has PVA been working for UM users? We have Ultimaker PVA and it's been good when users handle it properly. We've found the key is to keep it dry and to warm it up just before using it. Otherwise, it's extremely brittle and will wreak havoc with the bowden drive.

     

    More interested in hearing how others have dissolved this material. We've used room-temperature water as well as warm water. Not too warm as to warp PLA parts, however. Still seems to take at least a day to fully dissolve from most parts.

    PVA is brittle for sure and overnight usually dissolves all of it or running water over it speeds it up

  4. No errors.... while it was printing, I was scraping off PVA material from the top of the smaller bowls.  I'm guessing that I pushed the table down and it started printing in mid air.  I was bored 😞

    How about the PVA over extruding on the bottom of the bowl causing the dug out defect on the print?  I tilted the next print and it just moved the defect to the opposite side of the bowl.

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  5. 12 minutes ago, willryan3 said:

    In your support settings you can toggle your support placement from everywhere to just touching buildplate.

    I cant do that because there is a key hole in the back of the part.  You can see it in the pic.

  6. Can anyone tell me why the support material is printing on top of the saucer shaped surface?  It makes the surface rougher ..... I added a couple more pics to show at what point this starts happening.  I would think its a setting?

     

    DSC_2160[1].jpg

  7. I'm printing some tiny round pyramids and after several tries I have good looking prints except for the thread artifacts on the leading edge of the print.  The right one is offset to allow the fan to blow on the other 5 pcs to cool them.  I attached the settings.  Any thoughts?

     

    Thx

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  8. 12 hours ago, gr5 said:

    3d printing gives you lines.  Are you saying you don't like the lines?  You can drop from 0.1mm layers to 0.06 layers but you'll still see the lines - they'll just be thinner.  why are lines so bad?  Some people like the look of the lines.  It shows a little bit about the process.  Like most people don't mind the grain in wood and in fact think it improves the look of wood items.  Some people hate the grain of course.

     

    So you want those thin layer lines to go away?

     

    Well you could do acetone wash.  It will shrink the part a bit but there is a process.  YOu can't use ordinary PLA you have to use certain brands of filament.  

     

    You should practice on many small parts first but this guy (cloakfiend) is the expert with PLA smoothing - watch some of his newer videos - there's many many pages to go through.  I'd maybe read the first page of posts and then skip to the end and go backwards as over the years he improves on his techniques.

    https://ultimaker.com/en/community/10412-acetone-finishing-on-pla

     

    Or you could look into using polyfill and the polysmoother.

     

    Or you could do ABS and acetone vapor (but ABS is much more difficult to print - I recommend you stick with PLA or polyfill).

     

    Finally you can use "rough" filaments that make the lines pretty much invisible but the surface is rougher.  It's pretty amazing, really.  Let's see - ngen LUX comes to mind - amazing stuff - but you might not like the look - sparkly.  CF filled filaments also tend to hide the layer lines.

     

    We are a foundry and all our patterns have been cnc milled and sanded smooth so that the castings are also smooth.  The lines will show up on the casting and OEM companies will not approve them aesthetically.  The body filler spray works well, but of course extra time added.  Im printing the attached now at 1mm @ 45 speed and the lines are not good.  

    I will look at the things you mentioned,  Thx

    DSC_1092[1].JPG

  9. Yes I meant PLA..... I couldnt change it after posting.  The pics are what I want to achieve.  I can't have any lines or they have to be very small.  Currently I spray prints with body filler spray paint and sand off smooth. 

    I don't know what an ideal layer size or print speed is?  Does PLA give the best finish or another material?  Im doing a print now on .1mm @ 45 print speed.  I'll post how that turns out.

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