["Caution hot surface" after print]

16 hours ago, gr5 said:

 This firmware behavior is dangerous and can cause burns.

 

 

Might it be impatience around removing your print that is dangerous and causes burns, instead of the printer telling you specifically not to handle it since it's hot? 😜

 

https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011432940-Remove-the-print-from-the-Ultimaker-S5

 

I would certainly agree it would be nice to tell the printer to skip that when you have to stop your print ahead of time and just want to restart it, though I'm not sure how UM would differentiate between those circumstances.

 

A side note, removing your print while hot will contribute to it cooling more quickly/unevenly and can mess with dimensions/accuracy. 

[Extruder 2 doesn't like some specific models]

Hi,

Based off of your most recent pictures it looks like you have a "Prime Tower" touching your model. It prints in the circled area. You can change the X and y position of this so it doesn't touch your model and that should fix it.

 

[Poor quality, not sure how to fix]

You can also try changing the "Minimum Layer Time" value. This will automatically slow down your print speed ( to a cap ) depending on how long Cura thinks it will take to process the layer.

[X Axis clicking sound and poor quality]

I saw you checked the belts, have you seen if your printer is aligned though? If you can move any of the 4 rods that run around the outside, you need to loosen the pulley and push it towards the outer panel while pushing the rod in, then set the screw on the pulley so it is firmly in place, I'm unsure if it's related to your issue though.

[Auto Leveling destroys my Print Adhesion sticker]

That bare glass finish on the bottom is always satisfying, to me, unless that side should be shown alongside another then I prefer the finish from a layer between the plastic and glass. For PLA I'd agree that bare glass is easier than anything else. I've found its not for everyone though.

[Not your regular Z-axis band/banding issue]

Hi sorry it's been quite a minute, IIRC, tightening the outer wheels to compensate could permanently set your gantry at an angle. You'll want to adjust the inner eccentric nut. If I remember correctly.....

[Auto Leveling destroys my Print Adhesion sticker]

Hi Tigerbeard,

I don't like adhesion sheets as I feel they're more of a mess than washing glue stick, but to each their own. There are alternate adhesives specifically for 3d printing that are really easy to clean with just water and work for several prints in a row. I've used magigoo and it's great, even helps removing parts easy if you put it on cold. There's also a brand called dimafix that should do the same thing but I haven't tried them.

[Thin gap between outer wall and inner wall, only on small circular insets but not on the perimeter of the print...]

Henderpa,

I saw you mentioned horizontal expansion. Have you tried using the hole expansion setting to improve your results?

There's more info on those settings here: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360012512340-Shell-settings

[Can't slice tolerance.stl file]

Have you tried both of these methods?

https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360013007080-How-can-I-completely-reset-my-Ultimaker-Cura-installation-

I'd also check your graphics drivers are updated, and that your laptop is using the GPU, not onboard graphics.
Also check that red icon over the tools in your image, you might have old plugins interfering.

[Lay Flat issue?]

Hi,

I loaded up your model to check it out and, it is hollow... The outer rim of the engine is all that can touch the build surface that way. The red area indicates it is parallel with the build surface, IIRC.

If you use the option "Enable Brim" you can create a single layer across the build surface that is easy to remove later and will help adhesion.

[Change X/Y-Stepper on UM3ext]

Hi,

 

I assumed Germany from the .de in your post, but in the future including your location can be helpful when looking for parts.

This reseller carries the stepper motor, and has it listed on their website here: https://www.igo3d.com/ultimaker-3-xy-motor
 

 

 

[Not your regular Z-axis band/banding issue]

Hi there,

Is that the model with a single Z-screw and 3 wheels on each vertical extrusion?

You should check the wheels, at different positions on the Z-axis try to roll each wheel without moving the gantry up or down. If any are too loose the gantry will be sort of "swaying" as it goes up, leading to predictable banding.

Something like this might help with that: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TwVxkukxJlw