[How to get rid of waves on outer walls without changing dimensional accuracy]

On 10/4/2020 at 1:50 PM, gr5 said:

Larger nozzle will definitely affect quality.  I mean if you are printing only cylinders then an 0.8mm nozzle should have the same quality as a 0.4mm nozzle.  Except there will be more layers.

 

It really depends what you care about.  Some people hate that they can see the layer lines.  I love it.

 

Also larger nozzles are going to leak more so you get more stringing.  Printing a cylinder doesn't have this problem as there are no gaps to traverse.  Lots of things have no gaps.  Say printing a shoe or someone's head.  90% of my prints have gaps to traverse.  But for some reason I don't get much stringing with my prints when I use a 0.8mm nozzle.  I have quite fast acceleration and fast travel time (200mm/sec) so maybe that's part of it.  Anyway I'm often shipping parts to customers that were printed with a 0.8mm nozzle (0.3mm layer height).  I think the parts look pretty good.  They are certainly very functional.

 

Thank you for the explanation 🙂

[How to get rid of waves on outer walls without changing dimensional accuracy]

10 hours ago, Smithy said:

It depends on the model and how much details you need. A 0.8 nozzle is great for bigger part with higher layer heights. But the result is more rough than with thinner nozzle sizes and less layer heights.

Okay, so say I have two Ender 3s and I use one for terrain that is more or less not detailed too much, and use the other one for the more detailed stuff. I could put a 0.8mm nozzle on the one I use for terrain and it would actually print faster?

BTW... I am new to this and can't figure out why the hell I suck so bad at printing on a PLA!

[How to get rid of waves on outer walls without changing dimensional accuracy]

On 6/7/2019 at 10:15 AM, gr5 said:

Increasing your layer height won't help as then you will need to cut the speed.

 

Get a better printer?  If this is an ultimaker then your printer is defective - if it's a UM2 series then you probably need to replace the teflon part which only lasts 200 to 1000 hours of printing.  It is expendable.  Like pencils.

 

The easiest and best upgrade is to get a larger nozzle.  Most 3d printers default to 0.4mm or 0.5mm.  Printing with 0.8mm nozzle is double the width but 4X the area and you can print 4X faster volume (because it prints lines twice as wide so you can do one pass on the wall and you can print twice as thick layer height).

 

What kind of printer do you have?  I sell nozzles for most printers out there.

A bit of an old post, I'm aware... but are you saying that I could buy 0.8mm nozzles and be able to print something in 2 days versus 4!? And this won't have an affect on quality?

[Having a terrible time printing a certain print.. could really use help.]

Anyone?

 

[Having a terrible time printing a certain print.. could really use help.]

On 9/28/2020 at 10:12 PM, Mari said:

attach the STL or better the project file (3MF) that contains the to print object and your printer settings... the screenshots of your settings are simply to small to read!

Here are the STLs to both of them. Thank you soooooo much for responding. I'm feeling so defeated. I know other people who have the same machine, same settings and they can print it fine! I just replaced the nozzle as well, and put in a new roll of filament. I already like this gray better than the black!

Warp-floor_cutout.stl Warp-floor_solid.stl ForMari.3mf

[Having a terrible time printing a certain print.. could really use help.]

I've gotten pretty good at Resin printing (the good old hard way of wanting to rip your hair out and throw the printer across the room for weeks until it just falls into place).

I got and Ender 3 Pro for printing terrain as I just cannot do it on a resin.

I am able to print most things I have tried with no problems as far as I can tell. Boy is PLA different that Resin. I am totally new to PLA and admit that I know nothing.

I will load some picture of my issue(s).

I will also load my settings which I took from the creator of the prints because I figured what better way to try to fix my issues. I'm printing my first trial piece after using his settings.

One more thing, its a brand new printer. I took some pieces off and re-tightened everything. I made sure the white tube was pushed firmly down to the nozzle. My bed was not leveling in the center, I am using the magnet. I put a square piece of paper about 4" x 4" in the center, under the magnet and that seems to have made the print surface level. I have no idea if this is allowed but like I said. I'm grasping at straws. So now when all four corners are "level" the center is finally almost the right distance from nozzel as well, instead of being to far from it.

Does the actual printbed need to be level, like with an actual leveling tool?

 

Okay, so I'm printing terrain, some turns out fine.

These two do NOT turn out fine. Okay, im uploading one issue at a time.

 

I have researched nonstop. I've watched the Friday Filament guy. I've bugged friends who 3d print. I'm going nutty.

There are two versions to this "floor" piece. One has cut out and one is solid. Both have a raised design that is supposed to be a nice thick raised line. My printer is making crap up on its own.. 😕

I have formatted a new MIcro SD and am trying that now.

Please... anyone if you can help me I would be in debt to YOUUUUUUU!!!!!!