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schemer

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  1. Thank you for the most excellent detailed reply to my questions. I will look into getting parts to do this mod with confidence that it is a very useful mod. I appreciate the info. 👍 schemer
  2. Thanks for the pics. Makes sense now. Any potential issues by doing that? If the right stepper goes out will it still work like a jack-shaft? And just because I need to know...why does the right stepper drop a little lower and make the gantry off by a little?
  3. Well that is good. I should have known that as I used to program years ago and remember something about certain things starting from 0 vs 1.
  4. Thanks for your support Longtoke. I have a question on your linking of the twin z axis with a belt. Do you have any pics of that after it is complete? I can't picture it with the threaded rods in the mix. Maybe a project for later. Thanks
  5. Exactly what line or what is the gcode for the last Z height? I looked in Notepad++ . Is it the line with the largest number in the "Z" like the 6.2 in this line: G0 F300 X150.07 Y116.084 Z6.2 The reason I think it may be that is when I did the preview it has 30 steps (if I remember correctly) and I was printing in 0.2 mm resolution. so 62./0.2 = 31 Thanks for your support everyone.😇
  6. I know. 😬 I am glad that is all it was and I will always check all of my connections in the future when I have a weird problem.
  7. There is a selection to disable the steppers on the CR10S. I thought when the unit is powered on that the steppers are locked into their current step position so disabling them would allow for me to push the bed etc. But, on the older printers you could supposedly back feed voltage into the controller board by pushing the table or the hot end too fast and ruin the board. I guess it would be hard to turn the z axis too fast but I was just being careful. I didn't remove the cable(s) to rotate the stepper but when I was rotating it, I noticed the plug was unplugged causing my whole issue. Don't k
  8. I fixed it. The connector for the right z axis was unplugged. Don't know how or why. All good now. Thanks.
  9. I fixed it. 😁 When I was checking the steppers and couplings for tightness and free turning, I chose disconnect steppers from the control panel so I could turn them. That is when I realized the right z axis stepper was not connected. Funny thing is I had noticed the cable with the connector for that stepper hanging off of the table but thought it was the unused connector for the filament sensor. It's printing fine now after re-leveling etc.
  10. I am going to make a new one and from DesignSpark Mechanical make it the thickness I want so I won't have to scale it. And then I will report back. Thanks.
  11. I was hoping you were right but I got the allen wrench and checked and the couplers are both tight. I can run the z axis up and down without any binding. And the print looks fine other than being thinner than it should be. What do you mean ny "Z steps/mm"?
  12. I have this same issue. On a CR10S with PLA parts are coming out too thin. If I set the thickness to 6.35mm ( 0.250) it prints at less than 3.5mm and I haven't worried about the X or Y dimension...yet! Thanks, schemer
  13. I have used Cura in the past and never noticed any issues with dimensions but now I have printed a few small parts with the latest version and have noticed some issues. I am not an expert but it seems strange when I open an stl file that is 2mm thick and slice it and print it, it measures 0.045 inch instead of 0.0787 and if scale it in Cura, it still comes out incorrect. I tried another part at 5mm thick and it too is way undersize in the thickness. Any ideas? Using a CR10S with a 0.4mm nozzle and PLA. Thanks, schemer
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