reble
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3D Prints
Posts posted by reble
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58 minutes ago, GregValiant said:
Taking out the nozzle and putting it back in may have changed it's height relative to the "trip point" of the ABL sensor. A quarter turn is .25mm and that can make enough of a height difference that it affects bed adhesion.
Try adjusting the Z offset in the printer to move the print head down closer to the bed. Try 0.1mm at a time. I don't have an ABL so I don't know if you will be adding or subtracting.
I think that is something you will have to revisit every time you clean the nozzle or change nozzle size.
Thanks for the info. I did manually move the Z screw rod up in-order to make it easer to unscrew the nozzle so I could clear the nozzle. I guess I didn't screw the Z rod for the nozzle down far enough. Though I don't know how to tell when I hit the limit switch. I am still learning the whole process of 3D printing.
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Ambassador, Since the last post with the error message I got Cura working and I have been printing STL files from Thingiverse until today. The filament got stuck in the nozzle. See the post (a problem with a stuck filament)
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I was trying to change the filament and the filament wouldn't back out of my Ender 3 pro 3d printer in the normal way. I had to unscrew the nozzle because the filament was stuck in the nozzle. After unsticking the filament I screwed the nozzle back in and re-feed the filament in. The bed leveler program isn't printing right. See the 2D drawing (the drawing isn't exactly to spect's). Auto nozzle home is in red in the drawing. The blue circles and blue lines are where the 3D print is messing up, some of the squares and lines aren't staying stuck to the bed even with the glue. Before I tried to pull the filament the normal way and before I unscrewed the nozzle. The printer was working 100% aok. I have already 3D printed a few files. I messed up somewhere.
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4 hours ago, GregValiant said:
Microsoft may have included "MS 3D Builder" with your version of Windows. It's not real intuitive but if you have it you may as well play with it. One thing it can do is alter STL files..
I would like to learn how to modify the file my self. To increase what I know.
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I still have the Gateway laptop model NV570P-18U as a backup computer. But now I also have as my primary computer, a Gateway tower model FX-6840. The Toshiba Satellite L455-S5000 laptop kicked the bucket.
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2 hours ago, GregValiant said:
Microsoft may have included "MS 3D Builder" with your version of Windows. It's not real intuitive but if you have it you may as well play with it. One thing it can do is alter STL files.
If you open that Call Letter file in 3D Builder you can then bring in a cube, change the size of the cube, plop it down on that base, and subtract it from the original model. The letters will be gone and then you just need to build the letters and do everything else.
Much of 3D printing involves a learning curve. I had a head start being an old Gcode/CNC guy but I still started at the bottom. I figure I'm a quarter of the way up the curve now after 50 years of putzing with this stuff. It's not that I'm slow, it's just that the hill gets taller faster than I can climb.
To GregValiant I have a bit of a head start. I have an AA degree in electronics and I used to install in car's and truck's/repaired car stereos, 2 way radios and so on, I also repaired tv's, stereos, vcr's, and computers. My 1st computer was a Commodore 64, then the whole commodore line, then MS Dos, then the Windows line starting with Win 3.0. I also know tube and early transistor theory. But I am not a computer programmer. Computer programming is new to me and I am a slow learner with dyslexia.
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7 hours ago, GregValiant said:
OK. After looking at that model - when you remove the call letters you just have a two tiered base left. You might as well start in on a CAD program (Fusion 360 is popular) and simply design your own. You will eventually want to know some CAD anyway in order to produce your own designs rather than having a situation like this where you are kind of stuck with an STL that someone else made.
BTW that isn't a good model. You can see here that the K and E and part of the "0" are floating above the base.
The only 3D drawing program that I some what know is MS paint 3D. I have never used any CAD programs, I don't know Fusion 360. And the school where I was learning 3D printing closed it's doors because the board of directors where in-fighting like a bunch of school age kids. What I have learned so far is how to download the STL file > open Cura and load the STL file into Cura > make the Gcode > save the Gcode to the SD card > put the SD card in the printer > warm up the printer and start the printer. I have successfully completed printing a few 3D files already.
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8 hours ago, GregValiant said:
Provided that the reels are all the same material they should stick. My 3D pen came with ABS which I don't use but that wouldn't stick to PLA anyway.
If there is a retraction in the pause routine, or if you leave the new filament too far back from the nozzle, then the nozzle will run dry for a while until the filament catches up. On a small print that could mean a missing layer. Then, after the filament is flowing again, it puts down a layer that is two layer heights above the layer before the pause. There would be no squish in that situation.
Watching what's going on during that "layer of interest" might provide a better clue.
1st all the filament that I have is all PLA. 2nd All of the filament that I have is 1.75mm except for the 2 large gray reels. The 2 large gray reels are filled with 2.85mm filament, and I don't know what I am going to do with them. The eBay seller that I got the 2 gray 2.85mm reels from has a NO return policy (ASIS). And that is my bad. I didn't check the filament size before committing to buying them. right now I only have 1 large reel of 1.75mm filament, and that 1 large reel of 1.75mm that I have is multi color filament. Right now It doesn't matter if the prints are multi color. I am just practicing how to make prints and to use MS print 3D. There is 1 stl file that I would like to print.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4907266
But I need to figure out how to remove the person's ham radio call letters (that made the above file ) in the stl file and insert my ham radio call letters into the stl file before printing. I will buy a large reel of solid color 1.75mm PLA before printing this project.
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The printer has a pause button built into it's menu. The reason I need the pause is to change the filament reel. I only have the small 1.75mm reels that came with the 3D pen. Those small reels don't hold enough filament to print 1 project that I am trying to print. I tried using the pause built into the printer to change the filament reel and when I unpaused the printer. The lines after the pause weren't sticking to the base that was already laid down, there was lines going everywhere. So I aborted the print.
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I have 2 large 2.85mm dia gray filament reels. Can I use these reels on my (stock from the factory) Ender 3 Pro 3D printer?
A 2nd question. Is there a way to pause the print to hang more filament when the 1st role gets close to running out.
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On 3/28/2022 at 8:34 AM, GregValiant said:
Start Button and then scroll down to the "P" programs. Paint 3D should be in there. I seem to recall it used to be in an Accessories folder somewhere. Besides changing the name they moved it.
I found the Paint 3D prog when I installed Win 10 Pro on the new/used used tower that I just got. What a dog, pushing that tower into place on the rug next to the desk, BIG time ouch!!! on my joints. 😞 I plain to buy a strip of plastic to put under the tower. It should make it easer to slide the tower in and out.
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I know PLA is biodegradable but I am sure not going to eat it nor would I feed it to my dog. I was just curious as to what happens to the used left over PLA. At the rate that I am 3D printing I will be in an assisted living home before I fill the 1st box with used left over PLA. :-)
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At this time I don't have a lot of left over used filament. But over time it will build up, what do I do with it? The local recyclers don't take used 3D printer filament and the Benton County land fill will charge me to dump the used filament.
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I found under the "P" programs. Thanks
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Question, I know this is a different subject. It is about MS 3D paint. I have it installed but I can't find the icon to open the program.
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BTW, I goofed on 1 step in Cura. I forgot to make the Gcode and save the Gcode to the SD card. I was trying to run the file from the STL version of the file.
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BINGO!!!!! I just 3D printed my 1st file on my 3D printer. 😄
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I was born with my hand tremors. I went through a hand and eye coordination training prog. Over time and age I am losing some control.
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2 hours ago, GregValiant said:
The pen I bought came with ABS filament. ABS gives off some noxious fumes and is prone to warping without a "heated build volume" and the bed at 110°. The pen has a temperature adjustment and I can run PLA through it.
Just to double check - if it will extrude at 200° then it's probably PLA. If it's ABS it will work but require some adjustments to how you print.
I probably will not use the 3D pen because I can't hold the pen still to make a straight line with the micro tremors in my hands.
PS: The box and the extra bag came with PLA filament in it. The filament is melting at 200c.
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Thanks gr5. You never guess what gets donated at the store. I found a John Wayne cook clock with the ( D) battery holders corroded. I am going to have to 3D print 2 new (D) battery holders in order to get the sound working. The clock it self works fine.
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Question. I am a volunteer sales person in the Veterans Warehouse Thrift Store in the electronics dept. I stumbled across a 3D pen-v2 complete in the box, new unopened with a stack of unused, different color filaments that got donated. I payed $7.00 for the whole thing. The pen works great. But with the micro tremors in my hands, I had to retire in 1995 from fixing radios, tv's and so on, and free hand art painting, I couldn't hold the soldering iron still or a brush anymore. My question is will the pen's filament's work in my Ender 3 Pro printer? Or is the pen going to end up been a nice fat wall hanger. Just for info. My job in the electronics dept is checking over the antique electronic stuff. You ask some of the younger guys in my dept what a vacuum tube is and you get a big fat ???????. lol
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54 minutes ago, GregValiant said:
It is good to have a plan. Whether you are going to make prototype parts for a company, functional pieces for yourself, or art pieces that you will paint or otherwise finish, the learning curve is not an easy one. Here is a little list.
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Make sure the printer is assembled as accurately as you can get it. Do not assume that just because some parts may have been assembled by the factory that they were assembled correctly.
- The X Y and Z must all be exactly 90° to each other. Get out some tools (like a carpenters tri-square) and check them.
- All the trolley wheels must be adjusted correctly. You should just be able to turn them with your fingers.
- The belts are adjusted correctly. They should twang like the strings of a bass guitar.
- The cables going to the hot end and the extruder are supported and out of the way.
- There is no wobble in the X beam or the print head.
- All the screws have been checked for tightness.
- The end of the bowden tube is cut at exactly 90° and is butted up against the back end of the nozzle.
- Calibrate the E-steps. There are lots of videos on how to do that. Measure the filament and get the exact diameter and enter it into Cura in the material settings. If you need to make a custom material in order to make a change to the diameter then do it. The E-steps and the filament diameter are the main ingredients used by Cura to calculate the amount of filament to push in order to make an extrusion.
- The first layer is extremely important. It is the base for everything that gets added above. Whether you have an ABL or level with a piece of paper - a properly "leveled" build plate is a must. If the first layer doesn't stick then you won't be having any fun. I manually level with a piece of paper and it is not difficult but it is a practiced art.
- Start with simple models. Do not decide to print some gigantic monster with a sword that needs all kinds of supports as your first print. The 3D benchy is good. Calibration cubes are good. I am attaching a couple of models that I designed as calibrations for users. You can scale them in Cura to make them smaller if you like and print them with different settings and see what works for your machine. The ShapeA file can be printed in Vase mode (Spiralize Outer Contour). The ShapeH file uses supports and they are not impossible to remove but you will need to think about it.
I've typed enough for now.
GV_CalibrationShapeA.stl 59.55 kB · 0 downloads GV_CalibrationShapeH.stl 107.89 kB · 0 downloads
GregValiant I had help pulling the 3D printer together from the box and assembling it by the instructor at the Confluent Space School https://confluent.space/ . I have been taking lessons there. I already know how to take a file from Thingiverse, code the file, send the file to the SD card, put the SD card in the printer, setup the printer and print the file. I already printed all of the parts for Star Trek TOS, the Nomad deep space probe at school. I just have to glue it all together and paint it. I found the Nomad file on Thingiverse. The school is closed right now. The board of directors are squabbling like children about expanding the school and where the funds are going to come from. So ppl like me have to go to other sources to learn how to use the 3D printer. I have an upper hand. I have an AA degree in electronics, fixing radios, tv's, computers and so, on. I know how to fix switching computer power supplys. I am also an Amateur Radio Operator. I do a lot of digital HF transmitting on the air. And digital transmitting on the internet. 3D printing is a new hobby for me.
BTW I found the place in Cura to change the nozzle and bed temperature's. But the temp's are in celsius not fahrenhenit. The instructions that I have are to set the temp's in fahrenhenit. I did search and recuse in the Civil Air Patrol. I know how to calculate (C) to (F) and the other way around.
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Make sure the printer is assembled as accurately as you can get it. Do not assume that just because some parts may have been assembled by the factory that they were assembled correctly.
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1 thing I do when I am learning a new software, is what you are saying about, example (about setting the nozzle and bed temp in Cura) I have been putting what you said to do in Wordpad notes and saving it as a rtf, file on the HDD drive in the USB case. I have a stack full of notes like that saved. That's how I learn. By referencing the notes when I have to do the same procedure again.
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Re: I need parts for my 3D printer
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted · Edited by reble
I need to know were to buy a new set of screws and the special nuts that hold the filament role holder down to the top rail on my Ender 3 Pro 3D printer. I had to take the filament role holder off the printer so the printer would fit in the box. The screws and special nuts were put in a ziplock bag for moving to the new apt. Everything for the printer (printer tools, filament roles and so on) arrived safe and sound except for the ziplock bag with the screws and special nuts in the bag. I have been looking high and low on the internet as to where to buy them with no luck. There is 4 ways I can go to clamp down the filament role holder. 1. clamp it to the table with a C clamp, 2. use wire ties to clamp it to the top rail, 3. use the C clamp on the top rail, 4. drill 2 holes in the top rail and use regular machine screws and nuts. #4 I don't want to do unless there is no other options that will work. I would rather buy a new set.