Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

GregValiant

Expert
  • Content Count

    1,377
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    30

GregValiant last won the day on June 7

GregValiant had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

314 Excellent

1 Follower

About GregValiant

  • Rank
    What box?

Personal Information

  • Industry
    Engineering

Recent Profile Visitors

3,658 profile views
  1. M109 is wait for the hot end to reach the temp. M104 simply sets the hot end temperature. The same is true for M140 and M190.
  2. In this view you can see that there is a large error in the model on the left (your STL file). The model on the right was repaired at Service.Netfabb.com. In the left model you can see the threaded nut, but in the right model the nut has been "absorbed" into the head and so it has disappeared as a feature. I think the thing to do here is go back to Blender (which I don't know) and merge the head and the base, fill the tapped hole in the base, and then subtract a threaded stud from the model. Right now - when sliced you won't get threads in the head portion because of how the
  3. I would warm the plate up to 75° or so and gently scrape it off with a putty knife. It should be fairly round since without the glass there would be no squish to the build plate. You do need to try to get the surface flat. You wouldn't want a high spot in the middle that could cause the glass to rock back and forth.
  4. When an STL model is exported from most CAD software it is usually a representation of a 3D solid model. That means it is solid through-and-through. A slicer then determines outer wall, inner wall, and infill. When certain STL models are created from scans then they are sometimes just a skin. The thickness of the skin is what a slicer has to work with. If you look at the slice of the head in the second image (see below), you can see the (red) outer wall through gaps in the (green) inner wall. That means the "skin" of the model is very thin and in fact in some areas it looks like there is
  5. Sorry about the response in English. Delta BFB0524HH 24volt centrifugal ball bearing blower. Here are a couple more at Mouser which is a US distributor but I would assume they are available elsewhere (Digikey and others).
  6. +1 on that. A bit of imperfection (a TINY bit) on an area that will only see the light-of-day for about 5 minutes isn't an issue.
  7. That is a very difficult slice and is totally dependent on the way the support is handled. Here is my take on it. 40% of the filament is used in the support. The 3mf file may give you a starting point. My stuff is mostly functional prints. @kmanstudios is much more of an artist than I am. Maybe he'll have a take on it. GV_Charizard.3mf
  8. Don't encourage him Kman...the puns will just get worse.
  9. It's in the Experimental section of the settings. The tooltip should read "DO NOT USE".
  10. Turn off "Make overhangs printable". It's doing just what it says - instead of an overhang you get part structure.
  11. Have you tried turning it on by sending a gcode command? You could also create a 1 line gcode file in Notepad M104 Stt (where "ttt" would be your target temp) and print it.
  12. Geez, that could be a lot of things. You might check your Support Flow and Support Line Width. A "Tree Support Branch Angle" greater than 45° can cause this too. Zooming in to the right side of the skirt you may be under-extruding (the lines aren't welded together). What was the print temperature? How did the main model turn out (cuz you're going to throw that portion away)? It appears that the gaps are caused by the filament not adhering at certain points. That results in a straight line (like a bridge) so instead of going from A to B to C it's going from
  13. You are accelerating for 1/2mm and decelerating for 1/2mm. Things are not instantaneous even with Accel turned off. You could set Retraction Speed to 1,000,000 and it wouldn't have any effect on the speed. Now, you could possibly raise the Maximum Accel on the Extruder but there WILL be a point where the machine will hurt itself when it tries to hit that number. Set the Retraction speed to 30 and forget about it.
  14. I think you did an export. The only thing in the 3mf was the model and it sliced fine using my printer and settings. I need the project file (also will be a 3mf) because it will contain your printer, the STL, and your settings. In Cura, load the STL and set up the slice. Then, under the File menu select "Save Project" and create a 3mf file. Post that file here.
  15. Go to "File | Save Project" and (if it isn't proprietary) post the 3mf file here.
×
×
  • Create New...