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GregValiant

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  1. Much better. The Z seam can be hidden, kind of. It looks like you had it either "front" or "back". On the benchy the best places are at a stern corner, or the bow. I prefer the stern. With the bow of the boat facing to the right - Shell / Z seam alignment = User Specified then Z seam Position = Left Front. That will put the Z seam at the right stern corner. You might try Shell - Outer Wall Wipe Distance = 0.1 as well.
  2. That is a really bad model. In addition to not being watertight, it has numerous surfaces that don't fit right. I tried to do something with it in MeshMixer but I don't know that software very well although I made some progress. The way your model is now it will not slice and won't print.
  3. Before you go through the trouble of trying to set up 4.6.2 - have you tried adjusting the Mesh Fixes settings? Maximum Resolution = 0.8 Max Travel Resolution = 0.8 Maximum Deviation = .025 That was suggested as a fix in the "Issue 8321" and it worked for me with 4.7. Significantly better results on prints with a lot of curves. Slowing down to 40mm/sec essentially took care of the rest of the issues I was having. I'm running an early 8 bit silent board in my Ender 3Pro.
  4. Tree support was moved to "Support" and is an option under "Support Structure". "Brim Replaces Support" can effect how the brim gets applied. You may have another setting that is over-riding the brim for the support.
  5. As Smithy says, if you are slicing these new models in Cura then the machine settings may not be correct. In Cura - go to "Preferences / Configure Cura / Printers" then select your printer. Next select Machine Settings. Make sure the boxes are filled in correctly. Your build plate (I think) should be listed at 235 x 235 and it is 250 tall. You have a rectangular bed (a square is a special kind of rectangle) and make sure Origin at Center is NOT CHECKED. If you open the problem Gcode files in Windows Notepad you will see that there is a Max X, Min X, Max Y and Min Y at the start of
  6. I opened the file in 4.7.0. I had to move the tall detail but they all sliced fine. I then exported the problem child and sliced it with 4.8. Once again, it sliced fine. We'll see what @nallath comes up with but I thought the model(s) looked good. I did see that the tall detail is at Z=(-.0003). If it was in a Cad program it would notice. The bottoms of the other details appear to be on the same plane at Z=0. The image is Layer 1 from 4.8 with Support Brim ticked and set at 4mm. My Layer 1 looks a whole lot like your Layer 4. My only suggestion at this point is to go ov
  7. You could try adding a support blocker. Move it and scale it and then with the Per Model Settings have it "Print as Support". When I've needed a specific shape for an odd support, I design another model that will fit the bill, and bring it into Cura and do the above. Any model/mesh can be printed as Support.
  8. It's a question of scale. It appears to be drawn in English units. When I scale it up to 2540% it doesn't fit my build plate. At 1270% it is a single wall piece and does slice at .4 line width. At 635% it doesn't slice because the walls are too thin for my line width of .4. Search around here for cookie cutters. There was another post by about them and as I recall an acceptable solution came up. One thing you can do is make the whole thing a solid piece, set Cura up with "0" infill, no bottom, and no top. Then you can adjust the wall thickness until you get something useful. I
  9. Mostly there is Marlin and Reprap. There are other firmwares but they are necessarily similar. The Marlin GCODE is HERE. The RepRap site is easy to find as well.
  10. You will have to add it as a custom printer. I couldn't even find what firmware it uses. In Cura go to Preferences/Configure/Printers/Add a printer / non-networked printer / Custom FFF and on the right side change the name. In the next dialog enter the build plate size 120 x 120 x 120 Shape: Rectangular, Center Origin: NO Heated bed: Yes heated volume: No Keep the firmware at Marlin (it may not be correct but you have to start somewhere). Don't worry about the settings on the right side at this point. That should get you started. Different f
  11. I now have 4 versions installed and I do have a nit-picking complaint... When I play around and different versions are running, they all have the same blue icon with a white "C" on the taskbar in Windows. If the C was a different color (or if the background was a different color) for each version I would be able to tell which is which at a glance. I understand that blue & white might be the "Team Colors" of the Cura bowling team and as such are sacred. It would be nice to have a little differentiation though.
  12. There are two build plates. Cura uses the dimensions (described by gr5) as a virtual build plate with X0, Y0, Z0 at the left front corner. On your printer, there is a physical build plate. If you think about it, nobody really knows where in space the physical build plate is. The "Home Offsets" in the printer sets a virtual 0,0,0 that then matches up with the Cura virtual build plate. The Ender glass plate I have is 235 x 235 and as I recall those are the dimensions in the Ender3Pro profile in Cura. If you jog the nozzle to the exact left front corner of the glass and then use "Prepar
  13. Without a custom script you would need to do it manually. M220 S100 would set the Feed Rate to 100% and M221 S100 would set the flow rate to 100%. You can use the search function in Notepad to find the start of each layer you want to change Feed or Flow at and insert a line. Search for "layer:1" (must have the colon) Just below the line ";layer:1" add: M221 S130 Search for "layer:20" and just below that add: M220 S80 M221 S100 Then at layer 30: M220 S100
  14. The TEST model is a hollow box so no infill is required to print it. If it was a solid cube, there would be infill. The Main Body consists of walls with large empty areas. I had to scale it to 50% to fit my build plate. With my wall thickness at .8 infill did show up in a couple of areas.
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