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GregValiant last won the day on January 21

GregValiant had the most liked content!

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  1. It's definitely the model. The walls show all the deformations for me that they did for you. I uploaded it to NetFabb in case it just needed repair, but it came back the same. As it happens, I'm a Tin Can Tourist myself. We have a 1972 Shasta Compact that I re-did. I made a bunch of these trailers (and the drink coasters that go inside) to sell at the spring TCT rally that has now been cancelled. I think it has the kind of finish you are shooting for so I've attached it. Happy Camper Trailer.3mf
  2. A 3D philosophy question. "Ambidextrous means it won't work either way and Universal means you'll need a Harley tool and a torch." - Me It is rare for anything to be excellent at everything. It would seem that Cura, Prusaslicer, and Simplify3d occupy the top of the heap of slicers. Is it a coincidence that it's all they do? Or is their excellence a product of their focus. Give me a tool that is excellent at it's job. I don't want a hammer that has a screwdriver for a peen.
  3. When trimming an ellipse the remaining shape is still an ellipse, but when I offset one in my older version of Mechanical Desktop it turns into a spline. Splines are certainly different to deal with. That is especially true if they become part of a loft. The smoothness between the control points comes into play. If it's legal, post that here as a 3mf file (File | Save Project). Who knows. Maybe somebody will see something. All those facets are an issue though and they might still be in the model.
  4. If there was a prize here for the ugliest slicing you'd be the front runner. Another thing that can have an effect is the Mesh Fixes | Maximum Resolution. As @gr5 mentioned, turning down the resolution can help make the "average" more of a circle. Setting the Maximum Resolution for my Ender from 0.05 (a lot of stuttering) to 0.5 made a huge difference.
  5. I got that to work. I don't know about the Gcode or how/if it would print. Here is a 3mf with the dual extruder printer and a couple of calibration cubes. 25x25Cube.3mf
  6. OK @Ray722 it's right from the Ghost's mouth. I believe you have a little light reading ahead of you. I'll look at it too and if I see anything I'll chip in.
  7. 1000/25.4 = 39.37 So sometimes it's probably meters, and sometimes it's something other. At any rate as ahoeben says it's likely in Solid Edge either in the drawing units, or it's an STL export utility setting.
  8. The angled part of the wheel is in shadow so I can't see it. The working part of the wheel is the angled area (as it moves in the track). If those slice marks do not extend onto the angled portion then it is not an issue. The print looks good. Overshoot can be caused by loose belts or other forms of backlash as well has high print speeds. Enabling Accel and Jerk control with low values (like 500 Accel and 8 Jerk) can help by slowing the print head before a turn, but with short runs like on that part it doesn't come into play very much (unless you have Accel and Jerk control tur
  9. If you add a custom FFF printer you can pretty much configure it however you want. The two options under "Custom" are Custom FFF and Custom Smoothie. A custom FFF can have any of the available Gcode Flavors. I've played with configuring a CustomFFF as a dual extruder and as a 4 into 1 extruder. I'm hampered since I don't actually own one of them. I do slice and study the gcode files to see how Cura handles them in case questions come up here. That Gcode file you included would run on my Ender. If you absolutely need the x3g format for the printer you may be stuck. I'm no
  10. The underside of the ring is an overhang that would want support. I think the reason you are getting the stringing is that there is some air printing going on. In the model file - put a 45° x {width of overhang} chamfer between the ring and the pot body and set your "Support Overhang Angle" setting to 50°. It won't require support and it won't air print. Thanks for clearing up the confusion. I was wondering what the heck we were looking at.
  11. The handle ring will be printed inside the pot(?), and then as the pot builds up it will enclose the ring? That confuses me too. If you have the "Support Placement" setting on "Everywhere" it should be supported. A problem I see is that the overhang of the pot itself will need support and with the ring inside it will be in the way. The ring would have to be placed in the pot just right so the top edge of the pot gets supported and that support will necessarily be printed on the ring. I hope you can get your hands inside. Getting the supports out will be tough.
  12. Among the menu options on your printer there may be one for steps/mm for the steppers. Unfortunately I don't know that it will be there and I'm not sure what it would be called. Each stepper would have it's own steps/mm and it is usually shown as X=80 Y=80 Z=400 E=93 (those are the original numbers for my Ender). A fellow named Chep makes U-Tube videos that he calls Filament Fridays. He is pretty Creality centric, but you may find something there to help. There is another guy that makes Teaching Tech videos as well. Since your printer appears to be a Prusa clone, maybe Prusa forums c
  13. You know your machine, but at 195 you're 15° cooler than I would have printed it. I'll assume PLA which isn't known for warping. It can warp if bed adhesion is weak, or if there is a draft from a heat register (or somewhere) blowing at the printer. I see the bed is at 60 and that's OK, are you using anything as an adhesion promoter (hairspray or glue stick)? Are you using a glass bed? But yes, it could just be a fingerprint or something on the bed.
  14. Sorry, I don't know the x3g routine. It would seem reasonable that Cura would simply convert the gcode from text to binary (or hex or Latin) rather than adding or removing commands. The fact that the hot end temp falls off is odd. When I pre-heat the bed and hot end together, as the gcode runs (like the previous post) the printer knows to wait for the bed to heat up but nothing tells it to turn the hot end off so it just keeps heating, or floats at print temp, until it's own heating instructions show up. At that point it swings into the print. In the Cura Marketplace there is a
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