Jump to content

mnidannydang

Member
  • Posts

    24
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by mnidannydang

  1. Hi, i have an ultimaker 2 that has a printing head needs to be replace and thats it. Everything is still functional and new considering its print time is not much even though i had it for more than two years. Anyone knows where i can sell it since i don't use it anymore? Thank you.

     

    Edit: I am from South California , USA . Thank you for the comment lol sorry!!

  2. Hi, i just got some improvement on the Benchy printing. I have done some changes and some improvement on the cooling system as well. What i have done so far:

     

    1. Cleaning the Z axis as you said ( i have not applied the magnalube on the main Z axis yet still waiting for order from amazon to arrive) , just simply cleaning the dirt and debris from the main Z axis and light cleaning on two Z pole.

     

    2. I have tightened the belt, clean the feeder.

     

    3. I have changed the print speed to 40mm/s .

     

    4. I have reduced the retraction length from 7.0mm to 5.0mm and reduced the retraction speed to 20mm/s .

     

    5. More importantly, i added the external desktop fan ( i am not sure but this may have solved the caramelized problem i don't see any caramelized filament anymore.)

     

    Now, the Benchy looks much better than before, less small holes (there are still 2-3 small holes) , the printing looks much smoother even though there are some light strings between the benchy hull. Overall, this print is much better than before. Thank you for your help. I am not sure if there are any thing that i could do to improve this even more. 

  3. - So i increased travel speed to 200 mm/s.

    - By default i believe it is to be wall then infill last

    - I changed to random Z  aligment and you know what? The small hole appeared matched the location where the next start point of new layer. So how should i fix this?

     

    - Should i play with jerk and acceleration control or should i just turn it off? Thanks.

  4. Hi attached is the video of me trying to do flow rate calibration and seems like the hot end move like it has a hiccup for a moment. What could be the cause of the problem? 

     

    Layer Height .3mm

    Initial layer height .8mm

    Line width .8mm

    Wall thickness 0

    Wall line count 1

    Top and bottom thickness 0.0 mm

    infill 0%

    Material flow 100%

    Print speed 30mm/s

    No retraction enabled 

     

    Attached is the zip file of the video i took . The problem is at around 3s and last second.

    Thank you for your advices.

     

    video-1651830177.zip

  5. 16 hours ago, geert_2 said:

    When printing that slow, I usually print at 190°C for PLA, otherwise it may decompose due to sitting too long in the nozzle, because the flow rate is so low.

     

    I don't know what nozzle you have, but I would suggest taking that width as line-width (e.g. 0.4mm if it is a 0.4mm nozzle).

     

    Also, FDM printers like to print continuously, without too much retractions. So the flow through the nozzle is nice and constant. If it has to retract a zillion times on a very short distance, filament might be grinded in the feeder.

     

    That milk crate has lots of gaps in the side-walls, it is maybe not the best model to print on an FDM printer. If you would change the walls into solid panels, like a traditional curver-box for storage, it would probably print much better. But the walls need to be at least one line-width thick.

     

    I would guess the problem is a bit of all this? But it is a guess, not sure.

     

    In the beginning, stay with the printer, and watch closely what happens, how it prints. Begin with simple test prints until you get them good. Then change settings on the fly, and see what effect that has on quality, while you keep watching. For example: on the fly increase and lower speed, increase and lower temperature, etc. Increase and reduce layer-thickness. Then you will get a good idea of the upper and lower limits, and  the optimal in-between. The optimum may be different for each model, each model size, each filament. You need to develop a bit of a feeling for it, and that is best learned by closely watching it.

     

     

     

    Hi, should i increase the filament flow when printing? I read on some posted on google and it is said to be not advisable doing so.

  6. Hi, below is the picture and video for my problem when doing a print of the milk crate. Everything was going okay with the brim layer but the model is everywhere just like in the video. I was going slow 15ms and 210 celsius with 60 celsius bed. I have no idea why this is happening. I just did the atomic method to clean the left over from the print head. I am new to this please help me. Thank you so much for your time and guidance !

    6.jpg

    5.jpg

    4.jpg

    3.jpg

    2.jpg

    1.jpg

    7.jpg

    video-1650857685.zip UM2_Milk_Crate.3mf

  7. On 4/1/2022 at 6:08 AM, gr5 said:

    I recommend you do neither.  Ultimaker looked into making it quieter and decided it was a bad idea and they have a team of engineers although they did get the steppers quieter on the S5, S3 and UM2+C.

     

    The stepper is not the problem - it's the stepper driver.  The stepper driver is getting stepped fast, then pause, then fast, then pause and it causes a loud vibration.  It can be fixed by replacing the stepper driver with a smarter one (pretty much impossible - requires soldering and finding one that uses the same pins and even then you would need wires to send the stepper some messages to put it into quiet mode) that is quieter or you could replace the computer with Klipper (not trivial and not as quiet as also replacing the drivers).

     

    Well the side fans - if they are much quieter your part quality will go down drastically.  Also they are 12V fans in series with 24V across them.  About 80% of modern fans can't do that as if one fan draws only 10V the other gets 14V and blows up or refuses to rotate or shuts down which then puts 24V on the other fan and... it's a mess.  These modern fans have little computers in them.  anyway it is possible to find fans that will work and are quieter but your part quality will definitely go down.  A lot.

     

    The rear fan however is I believe 5V and easy to replace with a quieter one.  Just get one with the same screw sizes and rated for 5V.  I have actually done this on one of my UM2 series printers and should do the rest.  It will require some very simple soldering but that's pretty easy to do.

    Thank you so much for help. Moreover, do you have any links to the lubricant i could use for X , Y and Z?

×
×
  • Create New...