Thanks for the extensive reply!
It is a 0.6mm nozzle, yes – it's the one supplied with the printer, and had never been used. In fact I thought it might have some kind of debris from the factory, so an "atomic pull" was the first thing I tried. The filament came out with the same shape as usual, but it didn't help.
I also tried a known-good spool of a different PLA material, with the same outcome.
The feeder is definitely pulling hard enough, and I opened it up to make sure it's not worn or full of debris. All the fans are running, and the Bowden tube is in OK-ish condition.
Printing at half speed mostly fixes the problem, but makes the 0.6mm nozzle pointless. 225% flow rate works even better, and the filament isn't noticeably chewed afterwards, but that doesn't fill me with confidence.
It's confusing either way. Why would Ultimaker put a 0.6mm (and 0.8mm!) nozzle in the box, if the printer can't use it and their default settings are wrong anyway? Obviously something is not working the way it's supposed to.
I don't mind ordering a new isolator, as that's probably overdue, but I'm skeptical that will magically fix the problem. Right now I'm thinking the answer is to switch back to 0.4mm...