Schmordan

As well as drying filament, I think printing a new cooling fan system such as the Bullseye or Petsfang duct may also help my cause, by cooling down the filament faster, omnidirectionally and more efficiently. Thank you to all who have helped and contributed to this thread!

I think I might've boiled down the problem to temperature and speed. Yesterday, I tried using a brand new roll of Grey ESUN PLA+ to print the katana blade, and the problem occurred even with that. I noticed that when I reduced the temperature, the effects of the problem seemed to go down. I think the problem is being caused by the hot nozzle melting and warping the already extruded plastic, causing a consistent wave pattern. by reducing the temperature of the nozzle and reducing the time it lingers on one spot, I may be able to eliminate this problem. I might be wrong, as this has never happened before, and it might be a thermistor problem (I had to replace my hotend with the Creality Spider Pro) or another weird issue. if anyone has any other ideas on what the issue is, please feel free to share.

I think I've crossed out both of these issues though, as I tried some other prints later yesterday with the dried filaments, and they came out perfectly. This print took about 1 and a half hours, but didn't show any of the waves shown by the white filament, so i think the E-Steps issue you ran into isn't my problem. Your other issue with the mainboard fan is not apparent either, as while doing another print, i lifted up my printer and saw the fan was operating properly. there is also nothing under my printer blocking airflow to the fan.

I don't think it was though, because I've done multiple great-looking prints that look nothing like the results I'm getting now. I did, however, not use the filament for about a week and a half, but I don't see how the very dry conditions of SA can cause this effect.

I know i'm straying from the original topic, but I just dehydrated my filament (using a DIY method by Ricky Impey) only for a short time and my results are quite good. I think it is clear that the bubbles were caused b y the moisture in the filament, because the bubbles in the new test are minuscule and unnoticeable, and i think i can eliminate them entirely by dehydrating them for another hour or two. The issue of the mysterious white filament is still ongoing. DIY Filament Dehydrator Tutorial:

the bumps are in fact not start/end points, as the line across the middle of the prints are the seams. if the bubbles aren't moisture, what could it be? It might be an extrusion issue to do with flow, nozzle temp or something else. also with the apparent cause of the wave problem coming from the filament being used, what property of the filament could cause the waves to be produced on the white filament print? the filaments are all made form the same brand and type of plastic (ESUN PLA+).

i found a partial solution. I tried some other filaments i had lying around and discovered it was actually the filament that made the wavy pattern. i don't even know how, because i bought the filament at the same time and opened the filaments at the same time as each other, but only the white one has the waves. what is also annoying is that i think both the grey and black filaments have what look to be bubbles from moisture (i think??) that made imperfections on the surface of the prints. I'm in a particularly dry country, but i guess it's time to buy a filament dehydrator. I won't mark this as the answer, as i think there is something else at play here that's affecting the quality, as knowing the proper answer could maybe help me or others in the future.

same effect as all the last results except with a seam. 😕

i'll try to do that, but it might be a bit annoying, as i'm trying to print a collapsing katana for my friend, and seams can get in the way of smooth operation. i'll update you soon about my results.

Sorry for the really late response, as i had some things go on during last week, but i recalibrated my E-steps, which is now 86.7. I reprinted the model and was happy at first ... but then after a few minutes it just got worse.

I have calibrated my e-steps a while ago, but i'll try to redo it later today. i didn't use a calibration cube, and instead, after calibrating my e-steps, i think i just went on to regularly printing again. I'll update you later today, and thank you for your support!

i just tried using the same jerk and acceleration settings that you recommended, and it didn't work, with the same results as the other tests.

I also just experimented with speed, flow and hotend temp, but nothing worked 😞

I tried printing on my hard floor, but the same results occurred. 🫤

@Slashee_the_Cow, i am using ESUN PLA + in black and attached is my project file. i can also confirm that there is no play in the hotend and my bed is not wobbly. i'll try using my printer on a different surface later today and keep you updated. CE3E3V2_KATANA-CURVE-PNP-W-SUPPORTS.3mf

Update: sorry for disappearing for a year, but i found a Cura profile for a 0.12 mm layer height made by CHEP (linked at the bottom) and fixed the issue. i think my profile was just a little wack, as i had modified it so much in the early stages of my printing. i also think the rings caused by Cura have been solved in the later updates that they've released, so that's great. (https://thangs.com/designer/CHEP/3d-model/Ver3.6%20Cura%20V5.0%20Filament%20Friday%20Best%20%280.12%29%20Profile%20by%20CHEP-1002033)

it also gets way worse with smaller nozzles, as i was using a 0.8 mm nozzle (sorry for not specifying) and in the following photos i used a 0.6 mm nozzle. it now looks like my print has goosebumps 🥲

I was trying to print a collapsible katana, but when I printed in vase mode (or 'Spiralize outer contour' as Cura likes to call it) i noticed some waves appearing on the surface of the prints. i don't see how this could be rippling, as there's practically nothing to ripple, and i've tried the recommended strategies to combat this issues, such as slowing down prints and making sure everything's moving smoothly. around the bottom of the print as well, i'm noticing some under extrusion, which I don't understand as i have flow at 95 and there's no retractions for vase mode. for context, i have an Ender 3 v2 with a Creality spider hotend.

It seems that these rings only occur when there’s a ledge, hole or gap that’s being printed. the order switches from outside-to-inside to inside-to-outside (what’s meant to be printed). The latter of the two makes the print look more shiny, unlike when it’s printing inside-to-outside, so the rings are very noticeable. does anyone have any idea how to fix this, or why it’s happening? thank you!

Sorry for replying so late @Torgeir, i've printed the 'Mini-Me V4' fan duct upgrade for my printer to upgrade it's cooling. This has helped the overhangs some bit but i've changed so many settings like retraction and temperature that i don't know what fixed the issue. Still, i'm happy that it worked! my retraction distance is now 6.3, my bed temp is 55 and my nozzle temp is 195. this seemed to stop the overhangs from drooping. i think the bumps were caused by the sharp edges of the print curling up because of the high temp, so doing all these upgrades helped. I'm still confused why Cura keeps changing the wall ordering though, and it keeps creating those rings. 😕 Thank you for your suggestions!

I'm printing on my Ender 3 V2 with a 1.15 mm layer height and on the file attached, it consistently created these weird bumps on the outer walls. It's really annoying, as I want a perfect surface for this, as it's a case, and it happens with some other STL files as well. along with the bump problem my printer also make these weird rings that look like small layer shifts. I'm printing at 190℃ for the nozzle and 65℃ for the bed. The file: airpod_case_l.stl

Alright, thanks.

I've flashed the latest Jyers firmware to my mainboard (4.2.2 stock mainboard) but can't seem to update the screen files. I figured out that my Ender 3 V2 screen is a DACAI screen and all the other screens that are being updated on YouTube are DWIN screens. I can't find any tutorials online to update a DACAI screen to the Jyers UI themes. DACAI screens use private files to update, but DWIN screens use DWIN_SET files to update. trying to flash a DACAI screen with DWIN_SET doesn't do anything. I've tried renaming DWIN_SET files to preview, but it results in a blank screen and needs to be re-flashed with the stock preview file. Any help is appreciated! 🙂

I fixed It! I found a 'private' file online and flashed that to my display. Then I flashed the factory firmware to the mainboard. Very stressful! 😅

i think the PRIVATE file is used for the icons so i tried putting the icons into a folder named PRIVATE but it always came up with and error!!!!!