Pridanc

Y'all are making me laugh this morning. TY for that!

OK, so y'all have convinced me to just walk away :-) IE, in this case, trying to print them together just isn't worth the hassle and I've no doubt you are right. Again, both parts have been printed and fit well together. The bottom part, the block looking bit, was printed at a scale of 100.1 and the bits fit so well together it is scary. I've no doubt if I were to spend some time getting all the settings just right on my printer, I'd not have any need for the slightly larger scale but just laying it out there as my prints fit what I need most all the time. My needs are simple! Lets mark this as solved OK? As usual, many thanks for the thoughts and suggestions. Stay well, PDC

So how do people make PiP parts not stick together? I realize my questions might be silly but I'm dying to know. TYVM

OK, I'm baaack. And this is just a "how would you do it" question. I've printed these bits separately and truthfully only needed the female mold (the blue square block looking part) just once as it is a support tool for the other part/s as made for some post printing work. I'm just a curious sort wanting an education. IF I were to print the two parts together, how would I guarantee that they'd come apart peacefully? Don't forget when I print the "male" part (the grey part), I do so with it standing so that its face is dang near perfect which leaves me wondering how you print them together without sticking, and even if successful then, what would the faces look like? To be clear, I've printed them separately and all of it works as I want. But what if? :-) Parts are PLA but might print the grey bit in ABS next go round. Using CURA 5.7.0 OK, that's it! Thanks everyone. PDC

Makes huge sense to me. No feel free to discuss your modifiers as well since you have our attention! Sty well, all the best. PDC

Greg yes, vertical just for the quality of the slight curve. Ironically I've always printed it laying on its flat side. However, you may or may not recall that I print some PP parts using support that come off just as you suggest. And, as Slash mentions to another poster (I think?) but leaning it over a tad just might do the deed. I may try both. Regardless, Thank you both for the suggestions/ help. Lets call this solved. TYVM

Fabulous friends, I need / want to stand a relatively thin part on its end but as a big chicken see that there I can give it some support by using something from the "supports" tab I have in CURA. Might be an add on but whatever, I've got it in my current version of CURA (5.7.0) Try as I might, the supports I choose end up on either side and even then, with what looks to be one heck-of-an air gab between it and the part. So, with such a gap, who needs support right? I do see where I can move the support around manually but then I don't know what size air gap to leave. I'm hoping that picking the right support will have CURA automatically placing it in correctly. I'm a simple guy so something as basic as a triangle supporting this thin vertical part from its smooth flat back *only* would be delightful. I can imagine how easy this probably is, but I'm not seeing it. Included are the .3mf as well as a quick picture of how it is this second. In the picture, there is a red center which is the actual part. Left and right of it are the waffle support bits. And while we are on the supports subject, as an FYI, you may see that the "custom supports eraser plus (B)" (or some such) work perfectly and slice up all nice. BUT, when reopening a saved .3mf file like this (which you may get to see right now) the two upper support erasers on the larger vertical bit always move down towards the build plate. Easy enough to fix but is Odd IMO. I've included a picture of it after reopening. The two larger blockers are supposed to be up on this parts "ears" just above where they are in this picture. TYVM for, once again, saving my bacon. In my case, the real issue is the added support to the thin part. The moving custom blockers is moot. To me. :-) All the best, PDC Both Parts Sena Cntrl Pad 2 bar with buttons V2.3mf

I can't attack this until Monday but will give all the above a good shot. Huge thanks for your help as always. I will let you know how it all turns out as an FYI to file away. Close this for now but lets agree, the mystery still remains. All the best, PC

Hey Greg, thanks for the thoughts. As a spit balling attempt to rectify what we both feel could be a moisture issue, I'm going to heat the filament for a couple of hours prior to use, I'm going to preheat the chamber, I'm going to up the heat of the hottend after the first couple of layers as well as I'll increase the flow hoping to force the two layers together. Oh, and maybe slow it down at that point? Heck, I might even stand over the printer and lower the hottend a few thou while it is in this third layer. :-) As an FYI, supposedly PP is not bothered by moisture but moist air can rest on the filament. Anyway, I still "dry it" when I get it, I store it in a constant 18% humidity bin, and just prior to using it I "toast" it again. All of which means squat other than I'm trying. IF I get this sorted, I'll come back and let you know. Shall we leave this open for a short while in case someone else has an idea?

OK, the tag may be a little misleading but I am a bit dumbfounded. I've printed this part before and always with rafts but today, not sure what is happening. I'm also not sure I've picked the correct 3mf file but think so. Long story short, as the raft prints, first two layers of the raft go down perfect but suddenly the third layer of the raft starts to break apart as can be seen here. Of course once it gets loose the print is pretty much done. :-) Any thoughts? I just tested the bed and the heat is actually best in the middle and the first two layers are happy as larks needing good pull to get it off the build plate. PP can be a PITA but I've generally had luck with it. Today is a new one for me. Even if there is no known cure, thoughts are welcome! Trump Hld Dn Spcl SF v2 Cura.3mf

NTwoO, Foaming filament is exactly my next try but: a) not until I've actually completed a print with the 30d stuff I've go now and b) also not until I educate myself a bit on the current crop of foaming filaments. At this instant, I'm looking at ColorFabb Varioshore as I know some folks who've used it but I will also look into Foaming Filaflex as well as others I find. All of the foaming tech is very intriguing, meanwhile, back to the farm...TYVM PDC

Slash, HUGE thanks and I will look into it. BTW, this is the headlight bulb "electric connections" rubber-ish cover that is no longer made for the 1961 bike I'm restoring. So far I feel this material is flexible enough to do the deed. Point being, and as you can probably see, it is rather small. I'd love to leave out the support but so far have been unable to with the thing collapsing on itself during print. This thing does print perfectly in 95a. And I might even try that filament that changes it's flexibility properties based on the temp you extrude it. Fun and games are on the horizon to full steam ahead! I will keep you informed for everyone's future knowledge but I will mark this as resolved. Again, TYVM, PDC

Folks, I've been successfully printing 95a TPU but am in search of something softer so today I've tried printing with some 30D (about 80a). The print starts out perfectly IMO but early on the TPU stops extruding. As usual, the print continues but of course nothing happens as there is no filament.. I've only tried this twice so far and the failure has happened at layers 8 to 11 respectively where all movements are similar. This new avenue has me using a range of settings called for by the filament maker and have included the .3mf file as a just in case. I will take the time to watch the printer like a hawk on round 3 as something might jump out but my bride will tell me that since the obvious always escapes me, why bother? However, if anyone out there has any thoughts of a direction I might go to solve this, feel free to speak up! Dual gear DD extruder on an Ender 3 v2. Not afraid to go to a better extruder either so I'm all ears as this geared extruder isn't the top of anyone's line. It has served well to date however. My only regret is that I'm not sure what vs. CURA I sliced this in! 5.6 or 5.7.0 beta-1? Sorry about that. Thanks in advance for any thoughts, PDC TPU 30D CB Headlight bulb grommet .3mf

Embarrassing, meant to say CURA. Seems to me that once I've enabled LA in Marlin, I then come back to CURA and choose LA. Question is this: Are there other settings I need to deselect in CURA once I've chosen LA or will making that choice in CURA automatically deselect other settings that needn't / shouldn't be used when LA is being used? Many thanks, PDC

But since I'm here, are there things I ought to know from ORCA before using it? As in setting I should or should not use in conjunction? I am in the process of enabling LA in Marlin and then tuning it, just not quite there. TYVM PDC

OK, after restarting CURA the second time, I now see under Materials a box to use Linear Advance so...Never Mind! TY y'all. PDC

Folks, how can I tell if the plugin for Linear Advance Settings out of the Marketplace is actually installed? Can I see something in G-Code or in the CURA menus? Yes, I know I'm a dummy but hey, at least I know when to say HELP ! Currently using CURA 5.6.0 and have just downloaded 5.7.0 beta.1 :-) TY in advance

Folks, Just built a test model off of a PP model I've been printing and wondered if I could "force" CURA to use infill on (in) the bottom of the part? At the moment, CURA puts down 10 layers of material and continues on without any infill. This in and of itself is all good as it prints but I'd like to use some infill for the bottom of the part? Or is this area too thin? Remember, this is a test so there is no particular rhyme or reason to my settings. Thanks in advance, PDC Tester PP Full Break Off.3mf

Slash, Update. First off, I'm about to do a test print with new settings however, with nothing else changed, I noticed that the blobs only happened where there was not one of the tiny "break away" attachments on the two triangle ears mid way down the length of the longest walls. "Rhythmic" solved :-) Clearly the breakaway ear to body wall attachments won the "I will place the seam here" award by CURA at that point! I will still try to force other choices to kind of hide the seams, but I just wanted to mention it so that the next schlep who comes along can be forewarned by you, the brains of the operation. If you'd seen that before forgive me. I was excited. Stay well, PDC

Slash, I do have my PP setup under a PP file I took and modified. I "saved" it as a PP file but now that I've created a PP Material file, what the heck is next? I guess in the end it does not matter but it is a bit silly that one can't create your own and move on. I think that somehow I need to assign a printer etc. to the choice, but whenever I do that in order, then choose my made up PP material file the system gets all silly and refuses! :-) Oh well, I'll close this for now as I've no doubt your answers will help me fix the Seam / blob issues. So many thanks, stay well, PDC

Slash, never having created my own set of parameters for any filament, I've set out to create one for the PP filament I went into materials to create my own PP filament. Problem is, once I choose it as the filament of my choice, CURA stops and says "Not supported" and at the same time wont' let me do much of anything. I really think it is because I don't know how to answer what CURA is asking. This is 5.6 Clearly I can still work with my old settings and can modify those but I'd love to get unstuck here. Stay well, PDC

Thanks Slash. Not sure HOW the heck retraction got to that as I typically run .8 but then what the heck. I'll change that and as you say, print a portion of the model to see what I can find. Many thanks.

Folks, Today as I finished up one of my typical prints, I took greater notice of some artifacts seen only on one corner of this box. In hindsight I'll admit that this rhythmic set of artifacts has always been there with other "like" prints, but as I had just added some extra flow to this part to help with what appeared to be light under extrusion on the long walls of the part, I'm convinced the artifacts are more pronounced because of the added flow. At first I couldn't for the life of me figure out what the heck was causing this but after looking at the sliced view, I could see the clumps of white seam "zits" on this left front corner. But ONLY that corner. I've included some pictures as well as the .3mf file for y'all to ponder. One picture is a close up of the artifacts. The other is a picture of the same corner from the slicer where the white dot clumps are obvious. Whilst looking I'd like to know the following, or best guess, and how you feel I should approach ditching the flaw. Please realize, even flawed the part is usable so I'm not terribly worried but I am always trying to make things better. This is one of those times. Help me understand why these seams (zits) show up a) on this corner only b) rhythmically. IE, the clumping is not top to bottom on this corner as one might think. OK, as I would think! Then your suggestion on how to: 1) "hide" these clumps. I'll imagine another choice of seam alignment could alleviate the clumps or should I even tell the slicer to build the walls in another manor? I'm ignorant so just humor the ramblings of this old man. 2) no matter what, is it best to use some greater retraction so the zits are better controlled (not eliminated so much as not so big) or just reduce flow (120% now) or combo of both? Or a combo of more things? 3) enable coasting? (can you tell I'm grasping at straws?) Old ender 3 v2 with some of the OE parts moved around to have a DD extruder. Forget what you might see in the 3mf file, I'm using PP filament (no PP base settings in CURA that I've found so made my own starting with TPU settings. Seems to work reasonably well. OK, that's it for now and many thanks for all the help! CURA 5.6 Triumph Steve PP V1.3mf

Slash, got it and TYVM.

OK, and please understand that although I can open a g-code file and even change a few settings successfully, when I went to look for the Marlin flow setting of M221 in the g-code, there was no M221 anywhere. However in the jumble of words there was this at the end of the code. Clearly states that flow is 120 but how does the machine know? I'm guessing by some other set of words code in the file? SETTING_3 infill_sparse_density = 10\\nmaterial_flow = 120\\nmaterial_flow_laye Sad that I don't know any of this eh? TYVM PDC