Adventurehill1

The model itself printed beautifully, except for the infill. It is a grid pattern, and it seems to bunch up at the intersections of the grids and leave the lines between corners empty. It did have a lot of stringing on the model, but I know that's somewhat a PETG thing.

My printer just finished a 27 hour print, but I'm wondering how to improve it throwing random plastic all over my build plate. I'm not sure how it manages to do it, but it's nasty. oem velocity stack.3mf

That's what I wasn't sure about.

I have an Anycubic Kobra Max, not a connect. My printer has a USB-A port, which is the one that printers use.

I know little of the 2+ Connect, but I was able to calibrate the e-steps on my printer using Pronterface and a USB connection. If that's also not possible I recommend adjusting flow.

That rules out a settings problem. Have you calibrated E-steps? I would definitely check the bowden tube for any melting. You could also check your extruder gears for plastic buildup, which can cause underextrusion.

That tells me what I want to know. Thanks!

Is there a way (Other than changing support overhang angle) to make it generate support there?

I'm definitely not some 3D printing guru, but nothing in the settings you showed jumped out at me as terrible. Maybe check your hotend for clogs, as well as making sure your bowden tube isn't melted at the hotend. You could also try increasing the hotend temp a bit.

I am wondering if this can be caused by issues in the model itself. I have been tweaking the profile that I added here as the solution, but I noticed that no other models that I printed have this problem. Today I threw the model into Bambu Studio and it gave me a non manifold edges error. I am still getting a layer like I was having trouble with, but my prints are clean enough that it doesn't give me any trouble. I took a (bad) picture of me peeling off the strange layer just to show how it comes off. Thanks for any tips!

It looks to me like a line width problem, but without the project file it's hard to tell for sure. You can share your project file by going in Cura to file>save project on the little bar up top, then uploading it here.

I threw a calibration cube into Cura (again) to test supports (again). I have adaptive layers turned on, and for some reason the supports now don't extend all the way to the edge of my model. You can see in the picture that the lines get much thinner where the support stops. Any ideas what could be causing this? Adaptive Layers CalibrationCube.3mf

I hate to say this (Cura is the best!), but I believe Prusaslicer has an option to do something like that. I've never tried because Cura is much easier to use, but it seems like an easier option than G-code editing.

It is a fairly low end printer. It's not exactly cheap, but that's mostly because of its size. Thanks for the line size guidance, it seems like in the 3d printing world you can ask 5 people and get 7 different opinions on the right way to do something. As for my flow rate, the profile I am using is based on the stock TPU settings for this printer. All the stock profiles have flow set to 90%, which seems like a strange way to do things, but it works on 0.4 nozzles for me. I have calibrate E-steps, but it has been a minute. I may need to do it again. Acceleration is also part of the stock profile, but I was questioning that myself. For the printer settings, where did you find those? I don't think I've ever seen those, and I definitely didn't set them to that. Thanks!

I've switched to a 0.2 MM nozzle on my Anycubic Kobra Max, and I'm using Overture PETG. I've only done a few prints so far, here are some examples of what the tests look like. As you can see, not exactly ideal. I'm just wondering the best way to troubleshoot/improve this. Thanks! .2 CalibrationCubehelp.3mf

I decided to run a print with almost stock TPU settings, just as an interesting test. It actually worked like a dream! Thank you guys for your help, it was extremely useful. Good PETG CalibrationCube.3mf

I ran a quick print with those settings and support turned on. It definitely improved the stringing problem, but didn't solve it completely. I'm curious what setting you tweaked?

Ok I just realized I used the stock TPU setting accidentally instead of your tweaks. I'm shocked that it even melted enough to do anything at 210 degrees. I'll print one with your settings.

My dryer gets to about 110F, which does seem cold to me. I didn't unspool any filament and I left it in for 8 hours.

I tried those setting sitting flat (Z straight up) and it worked beautifully. I do need a smaller layer height if I can possibly get it though.

Here is another print I did. I plated two cubes, one with supports and one without, similar to how they are placed in the picture. The plastic is stringing, but only from the strange layer on the outside. I did a print without supports and it did the same thing. I also double checked the nozzle setting and, yes, it is a 0.4. As for feed rate settings, I assume you are asking about E steps? I have calibrated those. I just got Cura 5.7.0 yesterday, I will switch. Hopefully that's helpful.

I have a filament dryer, which I used then printed again. The results are, well, exactly like before. the last two cubes have been printed with the settings I attached. I'm really not sure what else it could be. I will print again with line width and flow same for infill and support and see what happens. StrangeCalibrationCube.3mf

It's not underextrusion. (Sorry for not explaining better) It's more like a flaky surface layer that can be peeled off (Maybe overextrusion?) My infill has been having issues with just "bunching up" at the intersections, so I have everything set higher to help it stick where the extruder puts it. Also, I believe my hotend runs hotter than displayed by a good bit, which seems to be a Kobra problem. I've printed everything between 220 and 250 and for me 225 is the sweet spot. There is a stock profile for the Kobra, but it's pretty bad. I added it to the reply so you can take a look. StockCalibrationCube.3mf

Here is the result with a brand new nozzle. The strange stuff on the outside of the print can be removed by hand without leaving too much scarring, but I would still like to know what's happening.

Unfortunately the new layer height and line width settings still make a model that looks like it was 3d printed by hand. I am wondering if it is my nozzle, so I will change it for the next print.