Adventurehill1
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Posts posted by Adventurehill1
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I've switched to a 0.2 MM nozzle on my Anycubic Kobra Max, and I'm using Overture PETG. I've only done a few prints so far, here are some examples of what the tests look like.
As you can see, not exactly ideal. I'm just wondering the best way to troubleshoot/improve this. Thanks!
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I decided to run a print with almost stock TPU settings, just as an interesting test. It actually worked like a dream! Thank you guys for your help, it was extremely useful.
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5 hours ago, Adventurehill1 said:
Ok I just realized I used the stock TPU setting accidentally instead of your tweaks. I'm shocked that it even melted enough to do anything at 210 degrees. I'll print one with your settings.
I ran a quick print with those settings and support turned on. It definitely improved the stringing problem, but didn't solve it completely. I'm curious what setting you tweaked?
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9 hours ago, Slashee_the_Cow said:
You can try (I'd start trying at 0.1mm because I like nice round numbers) but I can't make any promises, it's sort of up to the printer at that point.
Ok I just realized I used the stock TPU setting accidentally instead of your tweaks. I'm shocked that it even melted enough to do anything at 210 degrees. I'll print one with your settings.
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On 4/18/2024 at 12:31 PM, gr5 said:
I don't trust your filament dryer. How hot did it get? Did you unspool enough filament for a cube? How long was the filament in the dryer?
My dryer gets to about 110F, which does seem cold to me. I didn't unspool any filament and I left it in for 8 hours.
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On 4/16/2024 at 9:50 PM, Slashee_the_Cow said:
Try printing this. I tweaked a few of the settings for (hopefully) better results.
I tried those setting sitting flat (Z straight up) and it worked beautifully. I do need a smaller layer height if I can possibly get it though.
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On 4/15/2024 at 8:07 AM, gr5 said:
I've never had this "flaky surface layer" with petg - just thick stringing. For me "stringing" is the only symptom I get when I have wet PETG. Other than that the quality is okay. When I dry the filament, the stringing goes away.
Here is another print I did. I plated two cubes, one with supports and one without, similar to how they are placed in the picture. The plastic is stringing, but only from the strange layer on the outside.
13 hours ago, Torgeir said:Well, -It's the support that's destroy your model in the first place.
Rotate your model so the "Z" is pointing straight up, the turn off the support -then you will have a much better model to analyse, for the one trying to help you and for yourself.
Are you sure you're using a 0.4 mm size nozzle? Or, could it be a much to high feed rate setting in your firmware?
I'll ask this as the line width setting in this last model was 0.24 mm (for a 0.4 mm nozzle) Cura warn you here with "Min layer width 0.34 mm). Still your model looks like this.(?)
You're using Cura 5.6.0 , Anycubic advice using Cura 5.2.0 as the profiles are made with this version, I would jump to Cura 5.7.0!
Maybe you tell us a little bit more about your printer.
Thanks
I did a print without supports and it did the same thing.
I also double checked the nozzle setting and, yes, it is a 0.4. As for feed rate settings, I assume you are asking about E steps? I have calibrated those.
I just got Cura 5.7.0 yesterday, I will switch.
Hopefully that's helpful.
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15 hours ago, Slashee_the_Cow said:
I'm too lazy to use @gr5's desiccant method so I just bought a filament dryer from Amazon, not expensive (about AU$75) and just stick my filament in there and run it for a couple of hours before I print and it's good.
I have a filament dryer, which I used then printed again. The results are, well, exactly like before.
the last two cubes have been printed with the settings I attached. I'm really not sure what else it could be. I will print again with line width and flow same for infill and support and see what happens.
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14 hours ago, gr5 said:
I can see that this side is severely underextruded - probably <50% extrusion.
It's not underextrusion. (Sorry for not explaining better) It's more like a flaky surface layer that can be peeled off (Maybe overextrusion?)
12 hours ago, Slashee_the_Cow said:I'm not sure why you'd need to increase infill flow, especially since it already has a higher flow to begin with:
No idea why you'd want to have the infill slightly wider than everything else.
The project says you're using PETG - I've never seen PETG printed that cool before. I run mine at a nice 245°. If it's not hot enough, that will cause adhesion issues (as well as possibly flow issues because it'll be a bit gluggy when it's heated).
My infill has been having issues with just "bunching up" at the intersections, so I have everything set higher to help it stick where the extruder puts it.
Also, I believe my hotend runs hotter than displayed by a good bit, which seems to be a Kobra problem. I've printed everything between 220 and 250 and for me 225 is the sweet spot.
11 hours ago, gr5 said:if there is not PETG profile I'd start with CPE and modify temp.
There is a stock profile for the Kobra, but it's pretty bad. I added it to the reply so you can take a look.
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Here is the result with a brand new nozzle. The strange stuff on the outside of the print can be removed by hand without leaving too much scarring, but I would still like to know what's happening.
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On 4/1/2024 at 3:41 PM, Adventurehill1 said:
Also, the settings on this profile produce some pretty disastrous results...
Unfortunately the new layer height and line width settings still make a model that looks like it was 3d printed by hand. I am wondering if it is my nozzle, so I will change it for the next print.
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Have you set the print area size to match your printer?
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1 hour ago, gr5 said:
yes. No idea what is going on there.
I have seen .06 layer height with .4mm nozzle and it looked pretty damn good. But not every printer can do that - the Z axis in particular will likely move .07mm one one layer and then .05 on the next and this creates a lot of ugliness. In my opinion .2mm layer looks the best but on a really well made printer with super clean and well greased Z screws and with a highly accurate extruder, 0.06mm can look better than 0.1.
I would try thicker layers (start with 0.2) and every other setting the same to see if the issue is indeed layer height. Instead the issue could be print speed - no idea. Or crappy printer - no idea what causes that weird mess on your "calibration cube".
I've been trying to debug this sloppy mess my printer call finished prints for a while now. So far for PETG I've tried changing temperature, print speed, retraction settings, and cooling, as well as some other minor changes. It all looks about the same.
I'm no expert, but I think the Z axis on my machine (Anycubic Kobra Max) is pretty decent, it has dual z motors and everything.
I don't really want to change layer height more than I have to, since I need a smooth surface, but I can switch to a 0.2 mm nozzle.
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2 hours ago, Slashee_the_Cow said:
I'm just curious about your priorities here - you're trying to print 0.1mm layers with 0.4mm lines - that just doesn't compute to me (but most things humans think don't, so it must be a cow thing).
I need a smoother surface on my print than a 0.2 height and 0.42 line width will give me. It's an aerodynamic part, and it needs to look good as well.
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11 hours ago, Slashee_the_Cow said:
What size nozzle are you using? A 0.4mm nozzle can't really get away with a layer height of 0.1mm and a 0.2mm nozzle can't get away with a line width of 0.38mm.
I'm using a 0.4. I was led to believe that a layer height of 0.08 was possible, so I thought I was being conservative. What is the smallest layer height you would recommend? I can switch to a 0.2 nozzle of it's not small enough.
11 hours ago, Slashee_the_Cow said:And by "filling in the top corners" you mean this?
Yes.
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Also, the settings on this profile produce some pretty disastrous results...
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Cura is filling in the top corners of the X in this calibration cube. Is that a setting I can change?
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On 2/27/2024 at 11:44 PM, Slashee_the_Cow said:
set Support > Support Z Distance to 0.
Do you think I'd be ok to set the z distance to 0.2? The lack of a support roof seems to have cured my problem, but the support is difficult to remove.
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I am having issues with Cura generating supports where I don't want them on this model. You can see the support going up the side. I'm wondering if this is a Cura problem or a model problem.
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3 hours ago, PizzaTijd said:
Drying your filament might also help. 'wet' materials can also cause unpredictable/worse printing behavior.
Thanks. I have a filament dryer, but maybe I let the filament sit out for too long between drying. I'll try it.
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I get the same problem, but only with tree supports.
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I printed a simple calibration cube, rotated 45 degrees to test supports, and something very strange happened. I used the settings you recommended as well. You can see in the pictures that the top printed fine, but everywhere that I had support it seemed to under extrude and string. This almost seems like a slicer/gcode error?
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Printer: Anycubic Kobra Max with Capricorn Teflon Tubing
Slicer: Cura 5.6.0
Filament: Overture PETG
I have been having problems with blobs and stringing for a good bit now, I think it has to do with my retraction settings, but I'm not sure what to tweak. For some reason I am also getting a lot of plastic buildup on my hotend and nozzle. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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On 1/16/2024 at 9:50 AM, GregValiant said:
Here is a generic PLA project for your printer. Only adjust the Print Temperature and Bed Temperature to your favorites for PLA or PETG. The print speed is 50 from the second layer up so it would be suitable for either material.
The point here is to see how the printer performs with a bland base profile. (BTW - I didn't care for the stock "Kobra Max" profiles.)
Here is a project file. It's a flattened 50 x 50 rectangular shape. The setting profile is a new one I named "GV Test".
These settings have worked wonders for my walls, thanks a lot. Unfortunately, the infill is still struggling.
The infill and my nozzle seem to be in a war, since I can hear the nozzle hitting infill sections and it gets a lot of buildup on it. this was printed at 225 degrees on the extruder and 30% infill with PETG.
Help With 0.2 MM Nozzle
in Improve your 3D prints
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It is a fairly low end printer. It's not exactly cheap, but that's mostly because of its size.
Thanks for the line size guidance, it seems like in the 3d printing world you can ask 5 people and get 7 different opinions on the right way to do something.
As for my flow rate, the profile I am using is based on the stock TPU settings for this printer. All the stock profiles have flow set to 90%, which seems like a strange way to do things, but it works on 0.4 nozzles for me. I have calibrate E-steps, but it has been a minute. I may need to do it again.
Acceleration is also part of the stock profile, but I was questioning that myself.
For the printer settings, where did you find those? I don't think I've ever seen those, and I definitely didn't set them to that. Thanks!