somerwil
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Posts posted by somerwil
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One of my short belts has signs of wearing on edges.
I have some wear on my short Y-belt too which I just noticed yesterday. The machine started to make some strange sounds in particular parts of the printing area. It appeared to be the damaged sides of the belts touching the pulley. I'll look after the alignment of the pulleys.
Other than that my belts look fine.
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Hi Bernhard,
Sounds like some good work is done! Thanks for all the effort you guys put into improving the firmware.
Is this firmware for experimental use only or do you recommend it to anyone with an Ultimaker?
I read some things about PID, what's that setting used for?
Sorry for being a n00b :oops:
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Hi,
I also noticed that when starting... The PLA failsafe profile works fine. Updating the wiki on (in particular) the software part is necessary.
The temperatures in this profile are pretty high by standard. I print most of my semi-transparant materials on 210-220 degrees. The materials from the Ultimaker webshop mainly use higher temperatures.
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Fantastic! Thanks for the tip and included pictures. Did you make these yesterday or are they on the internet? They should make it into the wiki/ troubleshooting.
I'll try this out tonight and let you know if it worked for me.
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Hi guys,
I'm frequently jamming my extruder. This problem occurs mainly after I tried to extrude material at too low temperatures (ie Netfabb standard settings). The nozzle itself is fine and is not jammed, my material gets jammed inside the PEEK insulator. The feed mechanism on the outside works perfectly and has enough force to push the material into the tube
I think my tube is not getting into the PEEK part far enough. On the instruction wiki it says the Bowden tube needs to get out of the bottom wood part for about 8mm. I can do that but when I place the PEEK on top of it, the cable doesn't slide all this 8mm into the PEEK. When I complete the assembly, the cable goes into the PEEK for approx. 5mm and pushes the tube back for some 3mm. I can imagine my cable is not directly connected to the brass piece of the hot end and thus creating a unwanted buffer.
Any suggestions?
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Hi guys,
I'm using the Netfabb software for a few weeks now and I think it's awesome. Nevertheless I feel the software can be better at some points and tried to write them down.
Now, what's the best place to discuss these ideas I have? Perhaps more important: Do the Netfabb guys listen to the users or do they have their own strategy?
My list consists of new wanted features, added/ new functionality, bugs and such.
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Can I try to adjust this myself in one way or another? I'm not familiar with the firmware changes/ github/ compile/ Arduino's... If it's the solution, Daid deserve a gold medal! :geek:
And then what if I screw up my firmware with some wrong lines... Will I be able to put the standard Marlin back on the machine through RepG?
It would be really great if some more experienced, firmware would try this out and post the results here! Any volunteers :oops: :?:
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I'm happy this worked for you as well. I would NOT advice to print through Netfabb to Marlin Build 1 though. I tried that but layer shifting (or whatever the offical term is) was a problem on all my prints... Marlin Build 2 with RepG code-sender and Netfabb Gcode works fine even though using RepG feels as an 'extra'.
I have no idea how Florian (Floush) manages to get good print on the Ultimaker through Netfabb tbh. I feel kinda jaleous :-)
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Hi Jeroen,
I'm also having problems connecting my machine to Netfabb. I can tell you we're not the only ones struggling with that... There appears to be a problem with firmwares. It depends on the firmware you use on your Ultimaker. The standard 5D firmware that comes with new Ultimakers cannot connect to Netfabb afaik.
Through ReplicatorG the following firmwares are available
5D
Sprinter
Marlin build 1
Marlin build 2
Marlin build 3
As far as I know only Sprinter (?) and Marlin build 1 will connect to Netfabb. I only had some success when connecting to Netfabb with Marlin Build 1.
Since Marlin build 1 has some issues I stayed with Marlin Build 2 which I feel is the best firmware available yet. Marlin Build 2 is the only firmware version that didn't give me any problems at all... It cannot connect to Netfabb on Marlin Build 2 though which is a shame. I would have expected Netfabb to be able to connect to the Ultimaker at all times but unfortunately it can't...
For now I produce most of my Gcodes through Netfabb and send the gcodes through ReplicatorG. That's a good workaround but I would have expected Netfabb to print directly.
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Hi guys,
I'm looking for a good 3D modeler to produce some artistic, non-technical models.
Does anyone use:
Blender
Cheetah3D (Mac only)
Alibre (Windows only)
Rhinoceros (not sub $200)
Other suggestion are welcome!
I use Sketchup now together with Meshlab to produce and optimize my STL's and I can use a full 3D modelling program for technical objects at work so that's not the tricky part for me. It would be really nice to play around with other, non-technical shapes so I looked at the programs above. Rhino is probably the best but it also costs $1.000...
If you use any of these programs, please post your experiences with them here! Of course I can try and download a trial version of all of these programs but most of the bugs/ workarounds/ annoying things about a program only show up later on.
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Hi Daid,
I'm glad you like it. Perhaps you can use it for inspiration for you own slicer. I'll try the program after I feel Netfabb's under control and I can get good quality prints every time I turn on the machine.
Looking forward to other user's experiences and some print from the Slic3r's gcodes.
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Hi,
I bought some PLA's from this guy since the Ultimaker shop was practically sold out a while ago.
Martijn Witte
He lives in The Hague and ships from there. Different 3mm PLA's are available which he uses for his RepRap projects. He covers quiet a few (nice) colors. As per september 2011 he had the following colors:
- Red transparant,
- Black,
- Transparant,
- Blue transparant,
- Green transparant (nearly transparant, see the SpiroMat on Thingiverse)
He also sells 3mm ABS, available in
- Black
- White.
I can't give you current prices since these may vary. I don't know about shipping costs but give it a try.
Some of his colors and a review of the PLA's can be found on
http://richrap.blogspot.com/2011/06/mul ... ament.html
I personally love the transparant blue as can be seen on Thingiverse
http://www.thingiverse.com/somerwil
.
From my (limited) experience his PLA's can be printed at low temperatures. The standard Netfabb temperatures works fine with the blue and transparant materials.
Besides his PLA's I also have some Ultimaker materials which are non-transparant silver and white. From the workshop I got myself a meter of red (see Thingiverse), gold, pink, dark blue (semi-transparant), black (matt-look when compared to Martijn's black version which seems to be a little 'shiny'). The Ultimaker PLA's need some higher temperatures than standard in Netfabb (10-20 degrees higher). It seems like the extrusion of the PLA's from the Ultimaker shop is more constant but not really noticing any difference in print quality so far.
Hope it was helpful to anyone. Please note that I'm not trying to promote Martijn's materials here but just trying to help.
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This is pretty interesting as a quick-calculating alternative to Skeinforge. I tried some slicing with large models and found the calculation to be really quick. Due to the lack of profiles and not being able to make one myself (due to lack of experience) I didn't try to print the gcode.
Perhaps it is useful to some of the more experienced users.
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I had some problems with the same results when printing on Marlin Build 1 which I tried to connect to Netfabb. The connection worked but this problem showed up on the first prints... I decided to go back to Marlin Build 2 (which is unable to connect to Netfabb) and the problem disappeared.
What's wrong with going to the Marlin Build 2 firmware. I'm not quiet experienced yet but so far I'm really happy with this version of the firmware.
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Hi Berend,
Searching for more info on the Ultimaker I once came on a so called Pearltree website which pretty much look like your mindmap.
It can be found here:
http://www.pearltrees.com/#/N-f=1_32000 ... u=1_334288
The Pearltree was already there and I decided to hook up with the original creator and maintain the Pearltree. Made quiet a few changes to the tree and included some more up-to-date links. I never heard of Pearltrees before but the functionality is quiet good imo.
Looking forward to hear what you think of it and perhaps get in the team to try and improve it.
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Did some testing with the stringing this morning. I came to the conclusion that rescaling is not the problem.
I tried:
1) OK-hand in both Lowpoly and original STL and all of them gave strange toolpath results, particularly in the palm of the hand. Rescaling did have some effect on the output of the toolpath but not what I saw with a different model last week...
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-g0jO ... K-hand.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-MbM2 ... owpoly.jpg
2) RandomVase V2 model (solid model) by chopmeister in different Netfabb Print Quality settings. This gave good toolpaths without stringing. The non-solid model (3mm walls) gave some extra strings in the toolpath.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zt2s ... 2520V2.jpg
3) vanderBilt in different scales and profiles. The toolpath outcome was basically the same with only minor differences as shown on the OK-hand tests.
4) SpinnyjiggyVase on different sizes and print qualities. Now problems really
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TUxa ... gyvase.jpg
New conclusion: Rescaling only affects the output of the toolpath on a detail level and is not responsible for some extra stringing. The STL however is the source of unnecessary strings as can be seen on the RandomVase outputs.
I still don't know why the OK-hand is not calculated properly. I really think the strings in the palm of hand up to where the thumbs splits up from the rest of the model are unnecessary.
Even with the stringing issues I still love Netfabb! The fact I can make these print screens within an hour and a half (including opening different files, do the toolpath calculation, copy-pasting, editing and placing them on Picasa) makes me love it. The presentation of the toolpath, the slices and the fill in full-time, full-speed 3D is worth buying this awesome software!
PS: I tried to edit my previous post because my conclusion not good. I couldn't find an edit button though...
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Hi Berend,
thanks for the reply. One thing I noticed: Do you preheat manually before building the code? I can't find a code in which you heaten up the extruder before this line:
"G1 F1000 E260 ;Extrude material"
Or am I missing something?
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I did some more testing with Netfabb today and yesterday and came to the conclusion that Netfabb makes some extra strings when the STL file is scaled through Netfabb.
Tried to print a Random Vase V2 by Chopmeister last week. I downloaded the STL from Thingiverse, opened it in Netfabb, decided it was a little too big for me and scaled it down to 50% of the original STL with the Netfabb rescaling tool. When the toolpath calculation was complete, some red strings were there. Today I noticed that when I just throw in the 100% STL and do the toolpath calculation on this 100% model it does not show these extra strings.
I can't think of a reason why rescaling should result in different outputs for the toolpath and I need to do some more testing.
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OK, here are my experiences with stringing in Netfabb
Netfabb's output of the Spiro-coaster:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Zj2x ... oaster.jpg
Netfabb's output of the vanderBilt building:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-XYXz ... erBilt.jpg
The Spiro shows an afwull lot of unnecessary strings where the vanderBilt is calculated with a rather unclever path for the strings. In the vanderBilt calculation the strings are very long while shorter paths are available in mostly all cases.
I really hope this can be optimized for future releases.
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I've made some pictures of the ABS-printed Ultimaker robot and placed them on Thingiverse:
http://www.thingiverse.com/derivative:15602
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Thinking it was PLA I put some ABS in the Ultimaker last week printing the Ultimaker robot + support (
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11551
). The Gcode was created on a Netfab PLA profile. I don't know which quality profile it was since it was created by Siert on the workshop. I was impressed by the calculation speed of Netfabb and the quality of the 3D print which made me decide to buy Netfabb afterwards.
Although the 3D print has some minor flaws, the surface of the robot looks awesome! I found some minor blobs on the arms and the two 'dots' on the bot's head are nearly massive due to stringing.
I really need to make some photo's and printscreens.
Conclusion: I think the (very good) Netfabb PLA profiles will need some tuning for use with ABS. I think they are a good starting point.
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Hi guys,
While trying to understand the GCodes and SF a lot better I ended up in fine-tuning a start.gcode and end.gcode which is used by SF (Preface).
Last friday Siert wrote a simple but effective start.gcode on an Ultimaker Workshop day which he sent to me. I tried to replace the standard start.gcode with Siert's version but I can't find the right path for the code.
I have two questions about this:
1) How do I know which start.gcode SF uses?
2) I can imagine some people wrote there own start and end files. I'm really interested in those codes! ;-)
Thanks,
Michael
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A few weeks later now and my first prints are there! ReplicatorG still feels irresponsive on my Windows 7 computer while RepG 26 alpha on my Mac is much more reactive to manual control mode. The extruder problem is still there though. Now that I now the problem it's workable.
A second problem occured today:
I need to restart RepG quiet often to get the prints going. It sometimes decides to go extruding very much material at the start of a print or even retracting filament from the tube at the start of a print. This is mostly when printing the same object with the same GCode for the second time when the first print just finished. Anyone else having these problems as well? A simple restart of RepgG does the trick...
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Hi,
I'm very new to 3D printing and the Ultimaker but I bought Netfabb last friday. The results Netfabb calculates is very quick and detailed. The quickness of calculation was the main issue for me to give it a try.
About the downsides on Netfabb I found this far (after ONLY two days of playing around)
1) I also noticed a few strange jumps throughout my print of the OK-hand (
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:10017
).
It's pretty obvious the fingers can't be printed without jumps but I found some string in the palm on the hand as well. That's not making any sense to me...
2) The same thing came up with a church (
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11727
). On both sides of this model three short pillars are drawn. Netfabb calculates these correctly on one side of the church but comes up with a lot of stringing on the other side of the church.
Also I noticed Netfabb doesn't get the strings inside the object where this could have been possible. It goed stringing on the outside of the object making the strings visible. I hoped it was clever enough to just make string inside the object where no one can see them.
3) When the Spiro-coasters (
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:8928
) are calculated through Netfabb the outcome is terrible. It comes up with an awfull lot of unnecessary strings while SF35 did that one pretty well.
4) Quick build profiles are not available yet. I'm not able to get some really quick print code from Netfabb because it simply makes the Gcode too precise which is not a good thing for every sort of object. I really like Joris' vases but quick style for these objects is more than good enough.
Perhaps these issues can be solved by using the software in a different way or configuring it yourself in the good interface. With the standard, beginners knowledge I have it has some points of attention. I'll try to post some pictures of the problems I had later today. For now SF finally got my huge tornado calculated (approx. 1 hour) ;-) Ready to print now!
On the good side are calculation time, graphical UI (really nice) and user-friendly build and material styles. This compensates more than enough for me to make my investment worth every single Euro I spent on it. I love the Netfabb software and I think with the direct 3D print option to come and some more trial and error I'll never go back.
Michael
Newbie - Netfabb or Skeinforge
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
Hi,
I'm also relatively new to 3D printing and I tried both Skeinforge and Netfabb. When speaking Skeinforge, I mean version 35. This is a rather old version but integrated in RepG 26. It's the only version I use. The newer Skeinforge versions (40+) have some new functionality (called volumetric) which appears to work great. Since it's not integrated in RepG you need to run these newer versions stand-alone. That's not a problem but just something you should know.
Skeinforge pros:
- Free
- Comb functionality to remove (most of the) quick jumps
- Highly configurable (if you know what all the settings really mean)
- Quickly printable GCode output (due to thick layers)
- Updated frequently
Netfabb pros:
- Very quick calculation (5 minutes max. is my record while SF needs hours for the same model in a lower quality layer setting...)
- Good user interface (SF is 'not that great' on this part...)
- Very useable print profiles (thanks to Paul and Florian)
- Very high quality (resulting in higher print time)
Both programs still need RepG to send the Gcode to the Ultimaker although Netfabb should be able to work with it directly without the need of RepG. They're still trying to get the connection right.
I can really recommend Netfabb although I must admit I still use SF when I need some gcode which I can print quickly. Netfabb lacks settings for really quickly printable gcode. In other words: Netfabb's lowest quality setting is still too good for some particular objects. To give you an idea: I use 90% Netfabb, 10% SF gcode.
The choice is up to you.
Considering it's price: 150 Euro seems a lot. Compared to the 1200 Euro the Ultimaker costs it's not all that expensive anymore. Netfabb really makes this machine shine.